mr.radon

There was a small amount of Al smeared onto the #2 cylinder wall. Other then that (it came off with my finger nail) the walls were perfect. You can still see the honing. Piston - forged (turbo) I thought the pistons were all the same size and the crank was different for the turbos? So if I go for the forged pistons my compression ratio will change?

My guess is a really hot engine getting stopped, cools off and then started again? Anyone else seen this? Also, most of my pistons have scratches down the sides below the rings, what causes this, is it bad? Can you just replace a single piston or should I get a whole new set? Anyone have input on running forged (turbo) pistons in a non-turbo car? Anyone tell me how to replace the pin bearing on the upper part of the connecting rod? Links to the bad piston pictures: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2034&stc=1&thumb=1 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2035&stc=1&thumb=1

Well I got the engine apart last night. I had no trouble pulling the pins. I got a 10" long 3/8" carraige bolt. I have a mill so I took of the square and made a sharp 90 degree prawl to grab the end of the pin. I had to later add a recess to get by the clip behind the pin. I used fender washers and a bolt to give me something to grab on. I added a flat spot on the end so I could tell where the prawl so when the tool was in the pin. On pins for #3 & #4 I had no trouble. I used a hammer claw to pry the pins out, these were the stiffest pins to pull. Problem is now that I have it stripped I found pistons #2 & #3 need to be replaced, they have small spots where the edge got seized or pasted onto the cylinder wall. The engine ran fine though, just aleaky head gasket.

No, regular dash. Feel silly it was just a bad ground issue. However, I was glad I replaced the Thermostat since it was sticky.

Well I thought I had this licked. This is a riot. I drove from Seattle to Denver and back for X-mas with the station wagon. I threw my ralley roof rack up top and the wind drag killed me. I averaged over 70mph with gas stops included. Anyhow, whenever I put the fan on med high or high the car would heat up? Also, turning on my fog lights and brights heated up the engine? Anyhow, while in CO I replaced the water pump, I would ahve done the heads but didn't have all the tools. So on the way back I'm doing fine, but still if I run a lot of electrical loads the car heats up? A week after I get back I get 1/2 mile down the road and all of a sudden starting from a red light my voltmeter goes to 9V and the radio clicks off. I let off the gas and it goes back up to 12.5V? At the same time the water temp goes very high. I go back home and try several things. Turns out the ground from the cab to the starter ground was loose and touching the top of the tranny. As I hit the gas it broke contact. Attached the lead and it has run perfect ever since. Love it. Re-did all my ground, now I have perfect charging and rock steady temps, even ralleying around in the snow up high grades in low range.

The pins for # 3 & # 4 pistons come out the same way as #1 & #2. I'm wondering what is special about tool #499097300 The one they describ to pull the pins. How does it work? I;m sure this is the same tool the EA82 engines use. Where can I get one, how do you make one. I want to split the engine Thursday. Autosport in Seattle is machining my heads and reseating the valves (after they pressure test it) Let me know on the pin tool. I'd like to know the best way to get the pins out! Oil pump, got the seal, the pump itself checked out fine per the service manual. Lifters, 6 rebuilt ones on order. Thanks guys. Never realized I was a black sheep? Nah, I got a Gl SW too.

I post a lot over at XT6.net, but since you guys have more people I'll try this post over here. I'm almost done with the rebuild of my ER27. However, I need a few items and questions answered. Lifters: Removing the lifters I popped the press fit cap on three of them. These three were a bit sticky coming out. Will it be bad just ot throw them back in without the press fit cap? I mean are they going to come apart after they are assembled in the engine? What is the purpose of the cap? If not where can I get three new lifters? Should I replace them all. The engine ran very quiet. In the past all I've done is clean them out, fill with oil and re-install. I never had one come out this hard. Oil Pump: I need an oil pump shaft seal, my corteco seal kit didn't have the shaft seal, what size is this? Where can I get one (not the dealer) Cylinder heads: Is there a head shop in the PNW (Seattle) that can reseat my valves and check for a cracked head? I got the heads disassembled.

I run 15" pugs and have a full sized spare under the hood. If you can't get the spare in there (I deflate and reinflate) there is a provision for the SW to mount a spare tire on the floor of the rear deck. There is a slot cut into the carpet to hold down the spare with the same device that holds the tire to the cross arm under the hood. See your owner's manual. I recall it being on the right side. If your not sure lift up the rear deck carpet and look for the screw down. When I carry two spares I throw the extra one back there. Its nice since its held down and doesn't come flying into my seat when I 4X4.

BTW The fix was to replace the T-stat. I boiled both in water (new was 193F) (old 190F). At 195 the new one was about 3/4 open the old one was about 1/8 open. At 210 the new was 100% open and the old was about 1/2 open. I haven't had an issue since then with H2O temps.

Two weekends ago I went backcountry skiing up in the mountains near Snoqualmie pass. Drove way into the hinterland, stopped where the road was uneven (my tracks were the first tracks). Put on the ski’s (randonee) and got a few runs in. Need more snow. When I got back to the car I thought it would be better to got straight and then turn around rather then drive backwards till the road got wider. Well I made it about ¾ of the way across the uneven section when the whole car slid off the road. Three small birch trees stopped me and I wisely put on the chains. I had to dig out the car’s tires and under the car since snow was piled way up high. I also had to saw some of the tree branches to get to the front passenger tire. Another guy showed up in a Toyota Tacoma PU, he parked way back and brought me a shovel to help dig out the underside of my poor station wagon. With chains on the front tires and in 1st gear 4X4 LOW I crawled back up to the road. I headed for a clearing and more level terrain to turn around. Heading back I look up the road and see the Tacoma had tried to follow my tracks, he slid off the road right away and was rather precariously stuck, no trees between him and a ruined truck. I parked and ran over, we quickly tied the bumper off to a large rock. He had a come-along and we tried to use it to get him back up on the road. He kept spinning out, he could not lock the differential. One tire would break free and just spin and spin. He was getting nowhere, just kept getting closer to the edge. Well he finally slid off the road enough so I could pass on the uphill side. After I got by him I hooked him up to my bumper and towed him right back on the road. Wish I had taken the XT6, I would have loved to have a picture of my XT6 towing a truck back onto the road. Dang-it!

Felt like the car was slow today driving to work. When I pulled in I felt the rotors, the drivers side was pretty hot. I checked the e-brake. The arm the e-brake cable pulls on doesn't fully retract. I can yank it back by hand but as soon as I apply the e-brake again it sticks. What can I do to fix this? Is it better to get a new assembly from PAP? Anyway, please educate me on what retracts the arm when I release the brake.

Looking for where to buy a JC Sports intake or any other similar high flow intake.

I've hit the trailhead road to Pilchuck pretty hard. Got the front end of the SW in the air a few times. Road climbs pretty steep but really fun.

I want to tow a small load with my GL SW too. I saw a great tow hitch on a 1988 GL made by Reese, was under the car looking at how they did it. However checked with Reese it looks like they do not make that type anymore. Were can you get a tow hitch? Who makes one for a Soob SW EA82? Cool, I lived in Colorado Springs a while back. Enjoy the fun drive.

Clutch. I bought a parts car for the 5 speed AWD tranny. I'm converting a FWD auto to AWD manual. The donor car had no history but reading through papers I found in it, the lady who owned it mentioned "Needs new clutch". However, after I pulled the tranny off the car I found that the clutch plat had 50% of the pad left. The pressure plate and flywheel has small blue spots. I've heard this may indicate that the clutch was slipping?!? I'm replacing the clutch/PP/Rel Bearing/Pilot Bearing. Anything to be concerned about? Rear AWD (1988). Bought rebuilt rear half shafts. They came without the dust boot (end caps) on the half shafts. Are these important?

You might want to visit www.XT6.net and post this. Sounds like you have a rare and nice car.

The complete kit can be had from www.thepartsbin.com for just $110. Not a bad deal.

Well I went to www.tire.com to check price if and when I have to get new tires. I found a traction tire I liked and listed all the sizes available to me. I did a few calculations. The Yellow row are the old 13" tires I took off, Orange are the tires I'm running right now. Gray are the two sizes I'm looking at. Anyone try or run with P205/65R15's on a 1988 Soobi SW? All I really need to do is measure current clearance and see if they will fit, right? Anyhow, I'd like to know what works well for other PUG runners out there. Tire________Ø (in) Ø (mm) Roll (in) Roll (mm) HeightΔ %Δ 60mph= P195/50R-15 22.68 576.0 71.24 1809.56 -0.26 -2.24% 58.7 P185/70R-13 23.20 589.2 72.88 1851.03 0.00 0.00% 60.0 P195/60R-15 24.21 615.0 76.07 1932.08 0.51 4.38% 62.6 P185/65R-15 24.47 621.5 76.87 1952.50 0.64 5.48% 63.3 P205/60R-15 24.69 627.0 77.55 1969.78 0.74 6.42% 63.8 P195/65R-15 24.98 634.5 78.48 1993.34 0.89 7.69% 64.6 P215/60R-15 25.16 639.0 79.03 2007.48 0.98 8.45% 65.1 P205/65R-15 25.49 647.5 80.09 2034.18 1.15 9.89% 65.9 P225/60R-15 25.63 651.0 80.52 2045.18 1.22 10.49% 66.3 P215/65R-15 26.00 660.5 81.69 2075.02 1.40 12.10% 67.3

Well after looking around for 15" PUG's I finally found what I was looking for. I tried to buy some off a guy on this site, but he never got back to me. I looked at PAP but never found a complete set. Well Saturday at the auto auction (tow lot) I saw not one but three 1986 Pegout 505's. I figured I would bid a max of $100 since thay all had good rims and drivable tires. The first one up for auction went to me at a starting bid of $60!!!! The second at $65, the thrird (with the best tires and rims) for $70. Wholly cow I said when I got the first car at the start bid price, I should have held out for the last one, little did I know. I lined up a tow to my house, but after I paid the $15 to get a key made it sparked up. I drove it to my house and had the tires swaped out in nothing flat. I had to reverse my old 13" to get them on the Peugot. I also had to take the rear brakes off the back tires to get them to spin. I then donated the old Peugot to and am going to write it off on my taxes! Anyway, here is a shot of my two cars with the rims swaped. Also the tranfer to prove, $60+$5 taxes. Total investment: $80 ($15 for a shaved key) Return: Tax write off and new 15" rims. I figure I got 1/3 of the tread left. What are the best tires to get on these? I don't mind the larger rolling radius, I have P155/60R15 on there right now. I'm getting a 2" BYB lift so I'm looking for a tall ride. Advice???

Shawn i used to live in a small town North of Denver, Firestone. Grew from 200 people when I lived there to 1,000's. Anyhow, I'm sure you will like it out there. My sister has a VET clinic in Westminster. I go there a few times a year. If you have a pet I can recomend her services to you. When I lived there I wished people would stop moving to Colorado. But, those thought aside, good luck and best wishes. You picked a nice spot.

I got three now. 1988 XT6 - Yellow Rally car 1988 XT6 - Black parts car 1989 XT - Commuter car looking for more

A month ago I really ran my 1988 Subaru hard up the Mount Pilchuck trailhead. Full of pot holes I launched the front end of the car serveral times and got all four tires to spin out on the hairpin turns; I had a lot of fun. The ride was ruff enough to break the PS pump and loosen the ALT mount. Otherwise, the car did great. However, I noticed with the engine rev'ed up and under heavy loads for the ascent the H2O meter slowly climbed high and stayed there. Not in the red, but a little above the 3/4 mark. On the way down I ran it pretty hard too but I wasn't on the throttle so hard, the temps stayed right at the half way mark. But then on the drive back I noticed it climb back up to the 3/4 mark. Now it just hangs out there. I've checked the obvious stuff. I'm ready to measure the T-stat setpoint on my stove and backflush the coolant system. What do you think is going on here? It's not hot enough to light the fan off and the weather here isn't much warmer then when I stressed the system on Pilchuck. I figure they aren't related, but who knows.....

I had posted about my idle problems. this weekend I solved it. I took the advice I had gotten and took off the IAC valve (I think this is what it is called). It is bolted to the SPFI throttle body. Easy to find, there is an airbypass pipe going to it. The ECU senses the throttle is at idle and uses this valve to regulate air past the throttle body to the engine. There is a screw on the side of the housing where you can make a few fine adjustments. First off ignor the screw, remove the electrical connector and bypass hose, then the four machine screws (phillips) to get the valve in your hands. Clean it out with carb or brake cleaner. Mine was sticky and when cycled wouldn't come back quickly causing my engine RPM's to zoom sometimes. Clean the valve up nice and neat then reassemble the unit. Get someone in the car to start it up when warm. If not warm drive it around the block a few times. While idleing tell them to watch the tach or hook up a technicians tach yourself. Next to the IAC valve is a screw (flat) clockwise will lower your idle slightly. I'm humming at 750 +- 50 after it is warm. No more wild swings in idle. Took about ten mintues.

A long time ago I smashed the end of the axle and had to re-thread the darn thing. I find the best way to get it off is this: Get a medium screwdriver, grint it down a little to make the point a bit finer. Find the split, insert the screw driver, gently tap with a mallet. The washer will expand ever so slightly and pop right off. No big hammer needed, no chance to miss and damage anything.

I don't think this is the exhaust getting plugged up. I think someone forgot to torque one of the belt tensioners. it sliped and then so did one of the timing belts. Pull the front cover and take a look see. Let us know what you find out. This shouldn't take more then 30 minutes, another few minutes for you the be back on the road again. Also, check the fuel filter. It doesn't sound like that but sometimes after a large repair stuff gets free in the fuel and clogs that up, happened to me once. But the engine lost power over 100miles very slowly.