lagwagon

Haynes is an okay manual.I think it has more info than the other one.I believe there are just the two unless you got the dealership one.The oil pump is conected to the oil filter on bottom front of motor.

I replaced my radiator and that solved my problems. I replaced it with a dual core radiator. They are for the turbo models and it was about $150. $120 for single core. I think using distilled water will prolong your cooling systems life.I also wired up a fan because I removed my clutch fan.To be honest I rarely have the electric fan on, my car run so cool. I put a 15 degree cooler thermostat in my car and now it almost runs too cool. A new thermostat that opens at a lower temp would be your cheepest thing to try. Without the A/C my radiator gets better air flow also.I hope there is some useful information in there somewhere. I would like to wire up my fan on an automatic temp controlled switch because I have forgot to turn on my fan a couple times when I climbed a hill.It didn't get too hot but ,Just to make it a little more idiot proof.I have the fan wired through the ignition so it turns on and off with the car so I can leave it on all the time.But i want my car to run at the most efficient temp. I'm not sure what the ideal engine temps is. I found a adjustable temp fan switch kit for $40.

I agree it's not hard to steer if your moving.I just had trouble in parking lots with one arm, but I managed. Over all I think it's a worth while mod. I just wanted to let him know of potential problems or results with these mods.

I removed my A/C, power steering and, cluth fan. These mods seem to help the car accelerate quicker.You must wire in an electric fan if you remove the clutch fan. An Accel super stock coil is cheep ( around $50 ) and a good way to get better throttle response.Plus it takes two seconds to install. I would not recomend removing the power steering if you ever intend to use oversized wheels or find yourself only able to drive with one arm as I did after shoulder surgery. I'm not sure if you have A/C. I'm not an A/C fan so I didn't mind removing this.The A/C only creates drag if the compresor is engaged in A/C or defrost modes but, the compresor weighs a ton.I keep the clucth fan in the car incase the electric ever fails.It's a pretty quick install onto the water pump. Lastly I have removed alot of heavy things that I don't use in my car. Like the back seat.I bet you could lose 200 lbs or more off your car when your done.This is the cheepest way to gain HP.Plus it makes your suspention react differently. This is in addition to the other post ideas.Well maybe not the hammer.

Thanks Sweet82. That's what I will try.

Okay, I'm soaking the adjustment screw and nut in WD-40 now. So hopefully that will get things losend up and, I'm gonna get a 21mm O.E. wrench today. Now for my next stupid question. I now know you can adjust the strut on the car. Do you think it easier that way? it seems like it would be easier to get leverage.Which it seems like I might need a lot of, but maybe more difficult to access. I thought that since the struts were not on the car yet they might be easier to adjust in a vice but, maybe harder to install them extended. I'm not sure. I'm just looking for the easier sequence.Thanks!!!

I'll see if I can poke around in one of the local yards if they don't mind. I would like to come up there also. I definatly want to come up in August to the Subaru get together. So maybe meet up then. Thanks Also I think I might be able to measure some parts while thier on the car. We'll see.

Energy suspension has these parts listed by demesions on their web site. Would anyone by chance know the specs on suspension bushing for tie rod, sway bar,strut ect.? I'm think I could figure it out if I could disassemble my car but, it's my daily driver and, all my prodject have to be done in one day unfortunatly.Any imput would be appreciated!

I was just curious what the difference between GL and DL models is. Also do any models have the MPFI that are not turbo?

Duh! That makes sense. Thank you!!! GD

When I tried to turn the screw it broke off the pin. Is there a special tool for turning the screw? I notched out a 10mm socket to fit over it but it just broke the pin. Right now the struts are off the car. I thought it would be easier to adjust them before I install them.Any more input would be appreciated.Thanks

Has anyone have a source for these? I would like to replace my sway bar and tie rod bushings with a stiffer bushing.

Do you need to compress the spring on the front struts to adjust the hieght screws? I know you need to for the rear strut. My guess is yes.

I have the same year loyale. Mine acts like that when my motor gets too wet. Maybe your getting some condensation some where.

Two places I have also noticed a large subaru per capita are Boulder,CO and my current home Bend,OR. I can guarantee that there are at least 2 subarus on every street at any time. It's not rare to pull up to a stop light and have 6 Subarus lined up in a row. Both places are also plauged by Toyata trucks.

http://www.cars101.com/oldsubaru.html#1992%20Loyale

Has anyone installed an after market steering wheel into a loyale.When I look to see which models the wheels work with subaru loyales are never listed. Is there a reason why they don't work ? Or is it because there just is not enough demand. I'm not affraid to make a custom part to make it work. I was just wondering if anyone has experience on this.Thanks My web site http://www.freewebs.com/subaruloyale/

After driving on a washboarded dirt road my speedometer stoped working. I looked in my Hayes service manual and it said take it to a subaru dealer and, showed no details on the linkage of the cable. Is it the cable that goes into the passangers side of the manual transmition? I just wanted some input before I rip my dash apart.Thanks my web site http://www.freewebs.com/subaruloyale/

I want to make a custom "Y" pipe.I have a bunch of 2 inch and 1 7/8 stainless steel tubing. I wonder which size I should use? I'm going to try and match the lenght of the "Y" pipe. I have heard this helps on normally asperated motors to match header lenghts.What do you think? http://www.freewebs.com/subaruloyale/

you must remove the panel below the streering wheel (the same panel as your fuse box).I cut a little hole in the panel so I didn't have to remove it everytime I had a check engine warning.You also need to have the key in and turned to ON.I hope that helps.

opps nevermind

Observations from yesterdays field testing.Before when I cornerd fast I would leave a tire mark on the road with my outside tire as well as getting a little tire roll.Now I'm leaving a mark from both front tires with no noticalbe tire roll. It seems like i'm keeping the front tires on the ground better which equals more control or less understeer. I also notice that i have less steering wheel vibration. Only bad thing I noticed was...Bumps are harder (especially bumps that load both front wheels at once) so it might be easier to brake or bend something.It's a trade off. Rallyruss. I have heard of poeple welding an extra layer of metal to the strut tower walls for a more ridgid ride.I think this would work because I can see where my strut towers have flexed. see pictures on this link http://www.freewebs.com/subaruloyale/index.htm

I just installed a strut tower brace in my 92 loyale 4x4 wagon from SUBSPEED.If you rally your subaru this is an upgrade you will want.I already thought my suby had a predictable feel while drifting through corners, But now it feels unbelievablely more solid while cornering on gravel or pavment.I know subarus lack in power, but they more than make up for it in handleing I think.Especially offroad.