lagwagon

I'm working on making a "Y" pipe. It can be hard to get a good seal at the exhaust head. There are holes for 4 studs ( 2 extra ). Do you think it would help make a better seal if I used all 4. I know I will need to make a custum plate/ bracket or what ever you call it, ya know the thingy where it bolts on to. Just an idea. Potential problem? - do you thinkthis joint needs to flex a little? The reason it's hard to get a seal is because I have a tendency to hit my Y pipe on stuff.

that sounds super cool.I have always wanted to build a go-kart. Can't wait to see more pictures. especially if it comes out as nice as your brat.

rally lights are a lot brighter than fog lights and are not legal to use on the street. you are required to have covers by law when on public roads. I have a pair of Hella light but they aren't very cheep. You usally get what you pay for.I don't think cheep lights will be bright enough or durable enought for rallying. Also I would not mount them below the bumper if you want them to be there very long. When you wire them up you want to use a relay switch so you don't fry stuff. that's my two cents

I got it from an Albertson grocery store before. A 6'' cube would last all day in a cooler.Plus it's fun to throw whats left into water for the special fx.:cool:

GD- If you used dry ice you wouldn't have to wait very long. It might work even better. the exhaust noise is little rocks in the heat sheild.

Good to Know. When I crossed a stream? that submerged the 33" tires of the truck in front of me. I decided to try and hydroplane as far across the stream as possible. Well I made it about half way, I sank and, then I gased it.The water was coming over the hood. "Note I had 4 people a dog and all our camping gear,climbing gear, snowbording gear and a mountaion bike ". Well since the air intake is in the bottom of the front right quarter panel my car sucked up some water. It keep running but was not happy cause the water had gotten kinda muddy. My tip. be first across the creek.or get a snorkle

FYI- I redid my wheel bearings. because the manual didn't specify ,I decided to use water proof grease instead of HI-temp grease.Then later I felt the hub and it was very warm. So I read up on it more and found out you want to use Hi-temp grease. No news to you guy's I'm sure. So I decided to repack the bearings again today. Since I suspect the CV is bad I also replaced my axle. I got the axle for $44 with trade in at Knechts.Seems like a good deal? Now with the correct grease and a new axle the clunk,clunk is finally gone!!! Also this time I did a couple things different.I put the bearings in a plastic bag( to keep out moisture ) and ,then into the freezer for about an hour.I left the knuckle in the hot high desert sun for an hour.It definately went together easier this time.Plus I used a feeler gage to make sure the inside bearing was seated perfectly flush. Final note. The only problem with fixing that annoying noise your car makes is. Now you can hear the next quiter noise that you now have to fix. Now on to that rattlely exhaust. Thanks for everybody's input. It's nice to have a place to ask questions and kick around ideas. Kudos to you all...

loyale are the same.The strap in the middle back of seat can get tucked in and can be hard to find. did you know the drivers seat has a adjustable lumbar back support.I think I owened my car for a year before I found that. The latest tool I found in/on my car is a bottler opener. Anyone else found this tool.It's the door latch on the body side.

It's for your automatic seat belt. You use the allen wrench to the move the seat belt in the track manually in case it ever stopped working.you need to expose the seat belt motor to use the tool. Another cool tool is in the fuse box. It's a pair of tweezers to remove the fuses easily.

That is a sick picture but, I wonder if it did any damage to the car. You know that's why the Duke boys had 30 some General Lees.

Well it's done.It took about 2 hours to do. I went slow and cleaned all the parts. I ended up removing the knuckle so I had a good platform to install the bearing and I wouldn't contaminate the bearings with dirt. I got the Koyo Japanese bearings for $19 each and both seals cost $9 for a total of $47.My mechanic wanted $190 to do the job.I'm glad I did it myself!!! or maybe not. It did NOT get rid of the clunk,clunk sound when turning.It makes no noise under excelleration going straight like it did before but still has a little bit of the clunk,clunk sound when turning. My guess is it's the axles CV joint is also messed up. I had the boot replaced about 3 months ago. My mechanic said the CV was fine.Maybe he was wrong, or I did the install wrong.

Thanks GD thats what I'll do. I appreciate everyones input.

Napa machine shop said it would cost about $35 to press out that bearing.I wonder if I should make my own press with a bottle jack and a I beam frame.Thanks for everybodys input. Oh ya The manual is spelled "Haynes".

The manual says you need to have the steering knuckle removed and reassembled from the axle by a machine shop to replace the inner bearing.It doesn't sound like you guys needed to do that. This is the front wheel bearing of a 92 loyale that I'm going to replace. I don't always trust the Hayes manual.

My local subaru mechanic made a trike out of a ej20. I think BMW has a horizontal motor in thier motorcycles and, it looks like you would not want to lean this bike over too far before the motor hits the ground.The flat 4 seems to be kind of a wide motor for a 2 wheeled bike in my opinion.Unless it was a drag bike. then you want turbo w/NOS on it as well.

Okay, next project. I need to replace my front wheel bearing.I have been told it is a tricky job and easy to ruin the bearing if done incorrectly.I not afraid to try I just don't want to waste any money.Once again any input would be useful!!! Special tools? Do's and Don'ts? What ever! Thanks

I got the inner and outer control arm for $50 with the bearing.It took me about 3 hours to replace this part.I had difficulty removing the pin from the outer cv of the axle because this joint is where it was bent.I was unable to liberate the outer cv from the control arm because it was so bent so I had to replace the axle as well for another $40. 4 hours and 90 bucks later the problem seems to be solved. just FYI

I bought some of that Sea Foam yesterday at NAPA. It worked for me.

I have owned a 82 wagon 2wd.I liked the insturment panel.A GL-10 sedan.I wrecked it the first day "!%#*" idiot.It had all the sweet options.And now a sum what indistructable 92 Loyale.That I've owned for 12 years now.I like the body styling of this car.With the right wheels I think they look really cool.Plus it's such a usable/practical car.But I always drool over a 1980's RX. Newer ones I like are 2.5rs and STI of course.How can you pick just one! Brats are super cool too.My final answer is 80's RX one of the first 4x4 rally cars!way ahead of it's time!

My left rear wheel is riding on the inside of the tire badly. It ruins my tire pretty fast.So I want to fix the problem before I get new tires which I need badly. I think the rear inner suspension arm is bent.But as usual I'm not sure.It seems like the hard part of fixing cars is figuring out what is causing the problem. How long does it take to replace an inner suspension arm? How much should I pay for the part? Are there any tricks or tip? Any input would be great.Thanks!!! Who else has bent this part and how did you do it? Did it fix the problem? I think I did mine by either; going through rough ruts too fast or, sliding the car sideways and something grabed that wheel or, over loading the car with heavy stuff. No single event stands out so I not sure how I did it.

Ya that was my set up. I have almost all the part to make my custom "Y" pipe. Stainless steel with no cat. I just need a collector to convert 2, 1 3/4'' pipe into 1, 2'' pipe.I'm still not sure what muffler I want to use because I want to put on a spark arrester. I don't think no cat would have prevented this.Because when you look into the inside of the pipe at the same place where the tape starts on the outside.The metal is white and cracked it got so hot. But as soon as the tape stops the pipe is black on the inside.I think the solution would be a thicker pipe material or something with a higher melting point.I think one of the contributing factors of the failure is.I was driving the car hard for a long time which got the pipe really hot and the I ran into some rain and I was going throught some puddles.I think the water cooled off the hot pipes too quickly causing them to crack. That's my theory. I'm FI. I bet your right about the running rich.I don't think my valves are very efficient. If I gas it hard and then turn of my car I can smell unused fuel from the exhaust. I think thats where the smell is coming from.And bad gas mileage when I get on it. Might this have something to do with a bad EGR silonoid.I have never messed with my fuel mixture.How would you lean it out?

I wrapped my "Y" pipe with fiberglass tape. It helps keep exhaust gases hot which gives throttle a smoother feel, But I learned. If you go road rallying up some canyon @ 4000 rpm for an hour or so you can melt your pipe.So I'm not recommending this mod anymore.

I found it in a 4 wheeler magazine.The distributer was Performance Automotive Warehouse. Just look for replacment fans and, they will have a wiring set up that has an adjustable thermostat control. about $40

It's a done deal. After soaking the screw in wd-40 and this other stuff I found (Dr. Creeps foam). The strut adjusted easily after they broke free.No problem to access adjuster while strut was on car.Thanks for everyones input. I just posted some pictures on my web site http://www.freewebs.com/subaruloyale/index.htm

Clutch test. In theroy! If you are in 5th gear at about 2-3k rpm. When you step on the gas your speedometer and tach should move at the same rate. If your tach moves faster or much more your cluth is slipping.