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That transmission modulator is located on the right side of the trany I think, but how is it checked?

EGR pulled off and checked. All vacuum lines smoked and also pulled a vacuum on them- good. Can;t remember now what I set the timing at, but it is to spec- 21 BTDC I think. Did it with the connectors and without. Does not make any difference. PCV pulled, cleaned and checked. There is also an issue with the idle speed. When it is not pinging, it is correct, then other times it is slow, about 600rpm and not smooth. I wonder if a faulty fuel pump could cause this, because it seems like a fuel delivery problem. Also, changed fuel filter. Oh wait, I just re-read 4x4_Welder's post., Where is the EGR solenoid? I have not checked that. How is it checked?

My 93 Loyale with EA82, with 80,000 miles has a bad ping- sometimes. Have checked and re-checked timing and it is right on. Good gas, etc... Sometimes it does not ping at all, others, it pings badly during light acceleration. Also noticed that when it does ping, it decelerates much faster when letting the foot off the accelerator.. wierd It does not ping when the engine is cold, right after start up, but as soon as it warms up, the pinging starts - usually, not always. I think it is fuel - running lean, but this thing has the SPFI. How is the fuel delivery schedule done on this? Any ideas?

Mine does the the optical sensor disty. How much play is acceptable on the rotor shaft? If the shaft is worn ( after 80,000 mile) why would it be an intermittent problem? I considered putting this in the Old School forum, but the Title page for that forum says " Mine is a 93, but a Loyale too. So I dunno

Don't know about Bosal, but I had an aftermarket cat, Eastern Catalytic, put on wife's Toyota. Worked fine for about 2000 miles, then the 0420 code came back. Problem with aftermarket warranty, is you have to pay to ship it back and hope they are honest enough to admit it is a problem with their cat. Either way, you are out the shipping for a heavy exhaust.

My 93 Loyale with EA82, with 80,000 miles has a bad ping- sometimes. Have checked and re-checked timing and it is right on. Good gas, etc... Sometimes it does not ping at all, others, it pings badly during light acceleration. Also noticed that when it does ping, it decelerates much faster when letting the foot off the accelerator.. wierd It does not ping when the engine is cold, right after start up, but as soon as it warms up, the pinging starts - usually, not always. I think it is fuel - running lean, but this thing has the SPFI. How is the fuel delivery schedule done on this? Any ideas?

How did this turn out? I just bought a 98 Brighton and also want to put a rack on it. Thinking about getting a rack from a salvage yard or another Legacy. Will the Outback rack and rails bolt on?

pretty neat what year is your legacy

My Legacy wagon does not have a lot of ground clearance and sits very low with anything in the back. I read where Outback struts would bolt on with a little extra height and stiffer spring, I might check the yards for a set, but wonder about what the different angle would do to the CV joints

That is the plan.

Extending oil change intervals can be a major savings of time and money, if done correctly. When I was commuting 140 miles a day, I drove a Mercedes turbo diesel and used Amsoil with the extra filter. I chenged oil religiously every year or 15000 miles, whichever came first. The oil analysis I had done prior to every change confirmed that I was in good shape and could have gone longer on the same oil. The tests were 14 dollars then- well worth the savings I got from annual oil changes. The car had 272,000 on it when sold and is still chugging along with over 300K on the clock. On a side note... oil analysis is pretty much standard procedure on aircraft pre-purchase inspections, and yes they are very helpful in identifying and engine that will likely not make it to suggested overhaul due to some kind of pre mature mechanical failure. It has save me from buying something I shouldn't have.

PM sent... thanks

Thanks, I was thinking about trying to dis-assembling and cleaning greasing myself, but have no idea how. Also, thought about swapping left to right when I do it, so the thrust on the bearings would be on the other side.

Who is MWE, and is there a tutorial on replacing just the boots? Never done it but I got one torn and the joint is quiet and smooth- so far.

Looks great. A how-to would be nice. I have a 98 Wagon with no rack and want one. How did you determine where to located it? How is it attached?

Just curious, how do you know it needs new crank bearings?

Did you build your own hitch and harness? If store bought, where did you get them?

Problem Solved. I was poking around looking at something and found a little stand off bracket loose. The bolt that holds it on is an intake manifold bolt. It was not even finger tight. Decided to check the others. Two others on the drivers side were loose as well. Torqued them to spec, retimed back to 20 and Voila! Runs right. Also found that the A/C electric condenser fan harness was left disconnected as well. Stopped by the shop that did the work and let the guy know. Went easy on him since he looked like hell- coming down with the flu.

Is there a way to check that injector flow?

What's to look at on the injector?

The kick down switch seems to working okay when the pedal is full down. I wonder if removing that restrictor would allow it to kick down with less than full throttle. It seems as though right now it takes an awful lot of vacuum to kick it down. BTW, what kind of trailer do you pull with your Loyale?

While checking all the vacuum lines on the 93 Loyal, I pulled the vacuum line to the transmission regulator?, if that is what it is. Any way, there is a restrictor in that vacuum line. It looks like it reduces the diameter of the line down to about 1mm, and is made of bronze. Is that restrictor required? m It does shift up pretty early and hard to kick down.

Not running hot. Barely at a quarter off cold. Thing is, it did not ping before head gasket and timing belt job. Is there some way to physically check the piston on number 2 or 4 cylinder at TDC against the timing marks on the flywheel?

The timing now is at 18. That is as far as I can go without pinging. Done all the other stuff, new everything ignition wise.. all NGK Been thru 3 tanks of gas, Sea Foam, each tank., I always run 89 or higher as that is what the jobber I buy from gets and no alcohol in his gas. Compressions good. I can't help but think that left side cam is off one notch on the belt. But which way? When I got it back from the shop that did the head gasket, and timing belts, I checked the disty timing. It showed at 23, but it had not pinged before, and I could tell looking at the disty, that it had been at that place forever. I am thinking if that left cam were off one notch, it would have thrown off the disty timing my about 3 degrees, but I don't know for certain.

Still struggling with getting this 93 Loyale to stop pinging. The sticker under the hood says to connect the Green 2 pole connector when setting the ignition timing. My green connector has only one pole. There is another one pole connector that is white. It does not seem to make any difference whether one, both, or neither is plugged in when I set the timing- it does not change. What is it supposed to do, and which ones are really supposed to be hooked up?