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Those endwrench articles are good at explaining how the system is supposed to work, helpful- I suppose, if you work in a dealership with expensive Subaru test equipment,. Not much help for the backyard mechanic. A good start for me would be just identifying which hose is which in the engine bay and how to test them, as well as how to test that switch on the Evap cannister.

My 97 legacy is throwing a P0440 code. Last time I had this on another car it was easy- hole in bottom of hose at cannister. This one not so. Haynes manual is generic and vague. Can someone point out where these different lines are under the hood to start with? I have already checked the fuel filler neck and the gas cap was checked recently at inspection. Can that little valve on the cannister cause this code, and how is it checked? Thanks

Huh? That's 240 bucks IF they are 15. The dealer here quoted me 22 for intake and 30 for exhaust. That's 416 smackers

The shop doing my heads doesn't seem to have good prices on valves, but said I could use my own. The one place I checked that sells osvat valves is backordered for exhaust valves., Anyone got a good supplier?

I looked at their auction and the way the timing belt is nearly crimped, worries me. Look at the photo in the auction , for some reason this forum will not accept inserting a photo by url, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-2001-Subaru-Impreza-2-2-2-5-SOHC-Timing-Belt-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f134bb91QQitemZ300399508369QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

importexperts, is no longer a registered user on ebay and has no auctions. Are you sure about the spelling?

In the middle of re-building heads on an EJ222. Will need gasket and timing belt kits. I have read about inferior timing belt idlers, and vendors who kink the belts when shipping- so I'd like to avoid those problems. But good grief, I checked the prices on line and I am looking at 400 dollars just for the engine gasket set and timing belt set. I will still need accessory belts and a couple hoses! I have had good, but limited experience with Rock Auto online - with Ishino made. Any suggestions appreciated.

Definitely having the bolt in the head- that is the only way it will come close to going on- but, How about jacking the engine/ Will it go high enough for the bottom bolts to clear the frame without disconnecting drive shaft? Think it would be too much trouble?

Just pulled both heads on the 2000 Impreza 2.2 The drivers side is really a PITA to get away from the block. That lower rear head bolt hits the frame. I am not looking forward to reinstalling it. I was thinking about shortening that bolt by about 2 or 3 threads. I noticed there are plenty of threads that go into the block. Anybody have any ideas on this? Also, recommendations as to where to get the gasket set for the heads/intake/exhaust would be appreciated.

If you have a compression tester with a check valve or just manually open the release, it will allow air into the cylinder through the testers.. But anyway, anyone know why those pistons are forged the way they are? Any while I am here, anyone want to suggest how to surface that block before I re-install the heads. I saw my uncle use a plate of glass with sand paper, back in the 60's on an outboard motor, on the dock. Worked fine- but, maybe not practical here.

Got the right head off. All intake valves bent. All exhaust look okay. it looks like the way the chamber is designed, there is no way for the exhuast valves to contact the pistons. The pistons look okay with only one very minor scratch on one of them. But, I have a question.... What is the purpose of of the two, not one dimple on the lower side of the face of the piston? (see crummy photo) Are these pistons cast for different engines, with intake valves in different places? Since there are only 2 intake valves per cylinder, it seems like one set of "dimples" (probably using wrong term for it) is useful. Will be getting the other head off later. Actually, my 15 year old son is doing wrenching, since my back is screwed up- so it may be a week yet.[/img]

I may need to swap out the engine in my 2000 Impreza. It has an EJ222 with no EGR. Will a late modelEJ22 work without wiring or exhaust mods? What about issues with EGR?

FWIW, I had this same code a couple months ago. At my son's suggestion, I ran a can of B-12 Chemtool through the intake, by way of the brake vacuum line. It smoked a little an the cat got so hot it smoked too. I think there may have been some oil or soot residue in the cat that burned out. Reset the code, and it has never come back. Car has 160K on it.

Definitely stay away from any 2.5's . The latest Suby you can find in US with the 2.2 is the 2000 Impreza Outback. For 4000, you should be able to find a really nice Legacy L with 2.2 or a pretty decent Impreza Outback 2.2, from the south with no rust issues. Something like this one; .http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/ctd/1599054509.html Just take your time

Are you using genuine Subaru thermostat or aftermarket? I had similar trouble with the aftermarket Tstats. I ahve also seen them installed backwards. Subaru stats will only fit one way.

Good idea. I shoulda thought of that.

Thanks, I put a 14mm 12 point on it, but it seems that with such a shallow bolt head, there is not much purchase by the socket. The bold head has a skirt and the socket is beveled on the end.

Pulling the heads on the 2.2 impreza. Those bolt heads look a little strange., Do they take just a 12 pt socket? Looks like some other pattern,

Just curios, let us know how the pistons looked. I am in the middle of a similar job on a 2000 Impreza 2.2, but have not got the heads off yet. All the intake valves are bent up- I can see them through the intake ports.

What did you use to hold the pulley while the impact wrench is running?

I am in the process of removing the heads on this 200 Impreza 2.2 Tried to remove the bold holding the passenger side cam pulley, and could not get it to budge. Using a 2 foot extension, I wound up breaking the strap wrench. Is there some trick to getting these off? This one is the solid cast pulley. The timing bet is off and there is not enough room for my impact wrench

Now this interests me. I have a 98 Brighton, and would like to know about adding cruise control. How did that go for you?

Think you are right Qman. Got a belt on it, timed correctly- zero. Heads coming off tomorrow afternoon.

thanks all. I was very careful when compressing the tensioner. Took my time- like a 1/8 twist of the clamp every 10 minutes while doing other things,. Turned out that the rear washer was missing. Got it back on with that and the tensioner moves like it is supposed to, No matter though. I got no compression in any cylinder. The previous owner said his son told him he was doing 40 when the belt was knocked off. He musta been doing 40 in first gear! Gonna pull the heads later.

Been trying to figure why the timing belt keeps skipping. I got this project with the belt already removed and a box of parts. As I look at the tensioner ( new style), installed it seems that by torquing down the mount bolt it would restrict the tensioner from moving up and down. Is there some kind of spacer that stands the tensioner away from the block, while allowing it to move freely after being torqued? (29 ft/lbs) All I got was the tensioner, bushing, bolt and one washer.