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Anyone have personal experience with Dayco timing belts? If so what was your experience. How many miles on it? Any problems? etcc.. thanks

Do not waste your time on a high mileage, overheated engine head job without checking and resurfacing the heads- unless you want to do it twice. It is not that expensive. Not doing it is sorta like unprotected sex with a hooker. Feels good for short time, but what happens later? If you really can't afford the machine shop charges, go to a glass shop and buy a glass jalousie and use that to check the heads. I did that once with an outboard motor on a dockside rebuild. Worked out okay.

If I could find outer tie rods for 13 dollars, I would buy a handful. They are over 40 at AZ or Oreilly.

Okay thanks, Did you have to loosen the jam nut on the rod first or after you got the end loose from the knuckle?

Need to change the passenger side outer tie rod. Will it come out with the rap of a mallet, or do I need to get a puller? Is it necessary to unscrew the rod end first or drop it out of the knuckle?

Just mark the outside of the socket in 90 degree increments so you can see how far you have turned them.

We just put the engine back together after rebuilding heads. The injectors are leaking badly from the top where it meets the rail. It still has the old seal, that were not leaking before. The rails are bolted down but it seems like there is not a good seal at the top of each injector. Seems like I am missing something here. They are just dripping fast and engine would not start. It is a 2000 impreza 2.2

yikes, i just picked up the new one today. It is aftermarket and does not have holes in it for the spanner wrench. Besides the opening on top for the flex plate, is there another way to hold the engine while torquing the pulley.

67 is for the pulley

Yeah, the bolt head is not spinning true. I cannot even see the little rubber plug to get to the flex plate, let alone have room to jam something in there. Guess I will order a pulley then use it for a pattern to make a tool. Autozone says they can get it for 67 dollars. Cheapest I have found them on line is over 120 for the pulley.

My son's 97 Lego has a little bit of crank pulley wobble, when idling. I suspect the keyway may be a bit buggered or maybe just the harmonic balancer worn out. I am going to order a new pulley, but before I take the old one off, I want to have a tool to hold the new one while we torque it. Does anyone have the pattern and dimensions of the pins for the spanner? I'd like to make one. The car is automatic, and getting to the flex plate to hold it while torquing looks not doable with the intake installed.

There was not enough room to use an a torque angle meter, so we marked the outside of the socket in 90 degree increments. So is that hole referred to in the flex plate and actual hole or where a bolt is removed from? Haven't had a chance to work on it any more yet?

it should come off if you tilt the head up a little bit, allowing a little extra clearance to the fender well as it is slanted away from the engine as it goes upward. I just did this myself a few weeks ago. Next time I will pull the engine. Yes I have a bad back (worse now) too. Helps to have a 16 year old around

Intake is already off since we did the heads. Engine is in the car.

Thanks, Is there another hole on the back side of the bell housing that the extension goes into after passing through the flex plate, or does it jsut kinda bind the plate against the opening of the timing cover/ I don't want to damage the flex plate. That is a lot of torque on the crank pulley

Son and I are in the process of new heads, Tbelts etc... I don't have the special subie tool to lock the flex plate when we torque the crank pulley. Can anyone tell me how they have done it without damaging anything. Then engine is in the car.

Be sure and check that belt AND the tensioner soon. The tensioner on mine broke, and threw the belt into the timing belt through the cover. Kicked the timing belt off while driving- ugh!

I bought an ELM interface from ebay. The free software is the weak point. It will do some things like reading and resetting codes... but the more advanced stuff like live data logging of O2 sensors , for example- it will not. Also, remember that having this on a lappy can be used on other OBDII vehicles.. I have 4 cars, so it was worth the investment. I originally bought it hoping to diagnose a converter problem on the wife's Toyota. Dealing with suppliers in Hong Kong is a major PITA. If you can find a supplier in the US, it will be worth the extra $$$

There is no accounting for taste.

I sometimes hear of someone changing shocks on a Legacy Wagon, but I am not sure why. I have 2 wagons, each with over 150K and none of the shocks are worn out. In fact, I have never known a Legacy shock to wear out. These are not crappy Chevy factory shocks. Had a friend change his around 120K miles, cause he thought " they must be ready". Well when he took them out of the springs, they were not soft or sloppy- still worked fine. So, for all of you that talk about changing shocks, and getting KYB's what makes you think your shocks are worn? I have had problems with the rubber top hats, getting hard and causing a clunk.

I have had pretty good luck with the Lucas snake oil.

Someone is assuming something. It seems you are assuming that he is implying something. I don't see it that way at all. Don't be too quick to cry foul. It looks to me that he is just putting out a general alarm about his car. He is new on this board. Please, one victim is enough for this thread.

I don't know. Back when I changed from dino oil about 16 years ago, I did not trust it for more than 3 to 4000 miles, so I did change the oil and filter every time. After I changed to Amsoil, did a few oil samples over the years and became convinced of it's durability, I never looked back and was happy not to crawl under the car to drain it every other month.

How did you figure out it was the TB sensor, and what did you do to fix it?

There is another possibility- that is a broken or weakened valve spring. The only way to tell is to start with a leak down check, and listen for the leak in the intake or exhaust. If it is a valve leaking, pull that valve cover and look at the spring. I have seen this once before.