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That is what I am afraid is true. Apparently this 2000 2.2 is a higher compression than the 98, at 10.0, which means less clearance. Maybe time to start pulling the heads and hope the pistons are okay. I got a quote of 340 dollars for rebuilding the heads with as many valves as are needed.

When I turn the cam pulley, after the cam unloads, there is a rotation of about 30 degrees/ maybe where there is no resistance at all. I was assuming that position is when the flat side of the cam lobes are facing the valve stem and the valves are closed- but I got zero compression cranking I just want to do cranking compression. don't have a regulator to do a leak down with.

Yes, I know how to do a compression test. Done lots of them on airplanes The cams both have one place that is really hard and feels almost 'blocked' when I turn the pulleys by hand, but since I have never turned any before I don't know what it is supposed to feel like. I would imagine if some valves were bent, it would be easier, not harder to turn.. As far as the belt, I am certain it was lined up correctly. There was some concern that the number of teeth between the crank and cams did not agree with the online guides posted here, but I found out that the 2000-2001 impreza 2.2 engines use a different belt than the 98-99- I think it is the same as the 2.5 SOHC. So, before I pull the heads, how can I set those cam pulleys to close both valves on the cylinder to test it? Oh, not sure about the tensioner either, since this is my first one. I know it takes some time and torque on a C clamp to compress it. Haven't seen a spec for extension clearance.

Following on my previous thread, where the timing belt had been kicked off while driving. I timed the cams, put the belt back on to try it out. The belt keeps jumping a couple teeth. Decided to do a compression test on 1 and 3 cylinders ( easiest to get to right now). I got zero cranking. Took the timing belt off, but not sure I positioned the cam correctly to close the valves. Anyone know how I can set the cam pulley to know that the valves are supposed to be closed on 1 and 3? I am thinking the belt is just too worn out, or maybe one of the cams is offering too much resistance when I crank, causing the belt to skip.

It us very evident that the AC belt cut the timing cover and got under the Tbelt after the AC tensioner broke. The tensioner seems to be working. I took about 20 minutes to compress it with a C clamp set vertically in a vise. There was definatelty resistance as I torqued the handle. Any way to check for correct belt tension? If the belt is a one way belt, would installing it backward, cause it to jump?

Tried again. The belt jumped about 6 teeth. Is this a one way belt? No marks left on it.

Very weird. Hung the belt on it. The tooth count was very different than all links I have seen. It worked out to 48 teeth on the passenger side, and 43.5 on the drivers. Yes, this is a SOHC EJ22. Didn't matter though. No start and I could tell the compressions were weird. Took the crank pulley off, to confirm the crank was set at TDC, with the mark at 12 O'clock. I am assuming that the mark on the crank gear at 12 means TDC on #1. It ain't. #1 is the cylinder at front passenger side on this engine- right? Well with the mark on the crank at 12 and the key at 6 the piston on #1 is not at top. TDC on #1 is when the mark on the crank is at 9 O'clock, and the key at 3. So, what am I doing wrong here and why is the tooth count so different? I am 99% certain this is a dealer maintained car, with no mods. It even has a Subaru battery in it.

thanks, yes. If it runs good, we will do the whole front end. Belt(s), water pump, idlers, hoses, etc.

Well, that's the thing. I have not tried to remove the crank pulley yet. The timing cover was broken off, so there was no need to remove that pulley, to just put the old belt on and try it. If the heads/or engine are toast, it won't matter right now. So to answer your question, I cannot see the crank sprocket very well , except enough to see the mark on edge. As long as it is at 12 O'clock, it shouldn't matter, should it, if the count is correct and the cam sprockets are set up.

I am thinking about marking the timing belt before I try to put it on. In other words, counting the teeth and marking it so I will have a reference when the belt goes on, kinda like a new belt. Question is, where do you start counting- directly above a tooth, or between teeth?

Okay, I see that drawing with the solid pulley, and the mark. It looks like in that drawing there is no rear cover either.

That is the article I referred to in my first post. Is there something there I missed? That article is written about a Phase I motor.,

Is the black plastic cam pulley factory also?

Okay, on this 2000 Impreza 2.2 that I bought with the timing belt off... I was going to try and hang the belt on it to see.. but it's weird. Don't know if year 2000 was different. The cam pulley on the passenger side is black plastic. There is not cover behind it with a notch. It looks like the head is cast with a lip for the front cover to fit into. I cannot find a notch to line up the cam pulley. The other thing- worrisome, is on the drivers side cam pulley, when I try to set the cam so the little mark, ( not the arrow) is at 12 O'clock, it feels like the cam lobes on one cylinder are right at the full valve open position. The pulley will try to jump ahead if I move it one tooth . Is this correct? The pictures in the end wrench article don't show an engine with no rear cover on the right side. There is definitely a small ridge where the front cover could mate up to the casting. I can see paint where someone has apparently done this belt before. Don't know if it matters, but the sticker on the hood says this car meets California emissions, but it was originally delivered to New York.

Thanks, Now if I can find a machine shop around Houston or Austin where I can trust the heads, if needed.

Thanks, All these articles I've seen on timing belts assume the old belt is installed. I need to learn what to do about putting the cams/ crank in time after the belt is broken or off when the engine is running- without doing any more damage.

The links you provided are gone. Can you post them again? Since the belt is already off, I cannot figure out how to get the pistons positioned to the half way point, so I can set the cams without banging the valves.

Supposedly with all these after-market intakes, whether CAI or short under hood intakes, you get less restrictive air flow. All of these use some variation of a oiled fiber filter. Nice idea on a racing engine. Not so good on a modern street car. It is possible you might ( stress might), see a very small increase in WOT ( wide open throttle), high rpm power, you will most likely see less in the lower and mid range. You will also loose fuel efficiency. I have experienced this myself on BMW motorcycles with boxer engines, as well as Honda car . The car manufacturers spend lots of cabbage on engineering and tuning the induction and exhaust systems, while meeting pollution specs. If there were a cheap way to add just a couple horse power or 1/2 mpg, they would be all over it. Now, if you are running straight headers or other kind of open exhaust , you might see some power increase. But if you are one of those people that care less about real performance and like the loud sound instead, go for it. Back in the 60's and 70's guys would just flip the top of air filter cover over and screw it back on- leaving about a 1 inch gap of exposed filter. It made a noticeable, WAAUUUUGH when you stood on it and the secondaries opened up. All show and no go was the typical remark.

I know this is not an Impreza forum, but there is lots of good tech knowledge here, and I don't know of any good Impreza forums.. so Just bought a 2000 Impreza OBS with 2.2. Timing belt was knocked off. Among other things, I was wondering about valve adjustments. My manuals only go to 1998. Does this engine use shims for adjusting the clearances?

That link has a good discussion on testing O2 sensors. I am still looking for some recommendations on scanner software. maybe I should start a thread with that title.

Yeah, tried that. Found a link to an article, generic in nature that gave only relative values, and nothing specific to our cars.

Trying to run down an 0420 CEL. Does anyone know what the readings should be on the O2 sensors? I'd like to eliminate them before I start replacing converters. Also, any recommendations on scanner software would be appreciated.

Now I am worried. I just read that the Phase 2 , 2.2 engines valves hit the pistons when the T belt breaks. If that is the case, I would be upside in this car if I do buy it. Is that actually true on these, or is it just that the valves hit each other?

Been reading up on the timing belt procdures, but something I don't understand. Some say remove both idler pulleys, some say remove both cam sprockets also. Can I just remove/reinstall the tensioner pulley to hang the belt on, so I can do a compression check and see how it runs?

Good point. I'll do it.