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Did you have to remove the calipers and the rotors? Any problem getting the dust shield bolts out without breaking? The hum that sounds like road noise my be a wheel bearing.

Well the cat sitting directly below the engine and the right head might give you a hint... not encouraging.

Well I will ask, since most everyone will want to know.... why are you considering this? That phase II 2.2 is a better motor, and the 2.5 is not a lot more powerful,.

Had the same problem with my first head gasket job on an impreza. About half the exhuast nuts came off. Heat is your friend. Heat the stud and the head around it, then use the impact gun. You are more likely to break off the stud with a long breaker bar. I went through 2 harbor freight impact sockets before the last stud came out.

I was going to swap the new ignition wires over from my 97 lego to my 00 impreza, before the Lego goes to salvage. All the part websites I have visited says they are a different part number and won't fit. Anyone know why or have experience on these years? Are they different resistance? Never mind, I just remembered the heads are different where the plugs mount

WE have considered that, but even O/B's with blown 2.5's aer not that common down here. BTW, anyone know if the 99 Lego L with 2.2 is the phase 2 motor with the 2 piece head like the 99 Impreza?

Never heard of that. What is the " delayed forward engagement issue"?

The local body shop guy came by and said he could fix it for 2500, more if we want the rear quarter panel replaced. All the doors, hood and hatch still work straight. Just the hood has a small v dent in the front where he ran over a sign, after the caddy hit him. I think it may have bent an axle or rim too on the right side,. We'll see what the insurance company offers and wants to sell it back with salvage title. I did find a 99 that looks really nice in LA with low miles, but she is really proud of it.

My son's pristine 97 Lego wagon was totaled last week. Down here in Texas finding nice 2.2 legos are like hens teeth. This one was really nice and I had done all the good stuff to it like OB struts, etc.. v It took me 6 months to find this car when I bought it last year. Now we must consider buying a newer OB wagon with 2.5 I have heard the SOHC engines were least problematic, and I also heard that with new SUBY head gaskets they should be good to go. Any advice on year models? I can get a decent 00- to 02 for around 5000 here.

I doubt he would "feel"any problem with the cams. I turned mine by hand and felt nothing significant. Every exhaust valve was bent 30 degrees and would not close. All the intake valves were bent to a much lesser degree. Easiest way to convince himself is to remove and reinstall the T belt at the proper mark and do a compression test. He will certainly find low or no compression.

Anyone know of a source for an alternator rebuild kit for our alternators? Would probably need bearing, brushes and rectifier.

I just finished a job on a car that had this same problem. The tensioner for the AC belt had rusted and broke. The AC belt rubbed through the timing cover and kicked the timing belt off with the engine running. The valves crashed and all were bent. We tried putting a belt back on it, but no start, and no compression. So, we pulled the heads, sent them to a machine shop along with new valves and valve seals, which they installed, as well as surfacing the heads, and checking the valve guides and seats. They charged me 350 for that. Put new head gaskets, seal, belts, water pump, idlers and tensioner. In all I have about 1000 dollars in parts and machine shop costs. That is doing the labor myself. I did it with the engine in the car. Next time I will pull it out, though. This was on a 2.2 sohc. YMMV.

Typical of non subie enthusiats.. However, if you aren't used to boxer motor oil drips, you might believe that. How many Subarus have you ever seen that were completely dry on the bottom? Here is another southern Subie http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/1896309950.html

Here ya go. http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/1892780826.html

It could be a bad tire. To check the tie rod, jack up one side just enough to get the tire off the ground. Grab the tire at the front and rear side and try to shake in and out. If you feel or hear a clunk, it is tie rod- either inner or outer at the joint. If you have someone to shake it for you, you can watch the tie rod for movement. It is a pretty easy change.

Wow, I just got done looking at it more closely and it appears to be a power steering pump leak. So.. what is the drill on that? Is it usually the shaft seal? I don't see any lines leaking.

Nice comparison, but it needs to be considered in context; I have used paper and K&N filters for years. My experience is that K&N filters in modern vehicles allow a "little"more power on the top end at the expense of MPG in the low and middle range. My belief is that modern injections systems with MAF's and O2 sensors cause the injection system to increase fuel flow to keep the AF ratio where it is programmed to be- thus with more air, more fuel. This is also my experience in my diesel pickup up. The turbo spools faster, but I lost about 1 1/2 mpg daily driving. Top end is noticeably stronger. Now as far as allowing more dirt in the engine, consider this. I drive a vehicle until it has between 250 and 300,000 miles before I trade. Even using an oil cotton filter like the K&N, I have never worn out a modern engine. No major blow by, no ruined bearings, etc. So, the decision as to use a "high performance" should not be affected by "more dirt". It is of no effect, IMO. I won't do it again because of it's affect on daily driving mpg. YMMV

Haven't got that far yet. I just see it dripping from the bottom of the timing cover on that side below the cam pulley.

I used a short length of PVC pipe to tap it in. Yes, it is an aftermarket seal.

With about 200 miles on rebuilt heads, it appears the cam seal on the passenger side is leaking. any idea on what I might have done wrong when installing the new seal? Don't want to repeat the mistake when I replace it. BTW, it is on the 00 Impreza with phase 2 heads.

Yep, that was it! Thanks.

Can anyone identify this vacuum port on my 2000 Impreza 2.2? I put it back together, as it came in pieces. Can't find what goes to this port on the intake.

Took the impreza for a short test drive after doing the heads. It is AT and the shifter is very stiff. Haven't got it back up on jackstands yet to look. Is there some linkage points that need grease on these- that might loosen it up?

I just went through this on an Impreza. If the engine is in the car and the intake is on, it is pretty near impossible to get to that timing hole cover on top. I used the started bump method to loosen the bolt. Then to tighten it, I cut a length of accessory belt and wrapped around the crank pulley with a piece of duct tape to hold it on. Then used a chain wrench with a piece of pipe over the end as leverage to hold it while torquing it. I was a little concerned about doing it that way, but it worked out fine. No problems. A friend is working on a crank pulley tool for me right now. With 3 Subies, it will come in handy,

Thanks, Autozone has the California spec Dayco belts for 27 dollars. All the tensioners, WP etc was done 60K ago, so I will look at them but probably won't change them. No leaks or noises now so should be good for another 60K.