gadberry

Update on flashing charge light * voltage regulator was replaced and still have an intermittent bouncy voltage gauge with an occassional charge light flicker.. . So I guess I'll install the cheapest part (batt. grnd) last and hopefully put this gremlin to bed.. I have a new negative battery ground in hand but the ground bolt felt as though it was tightening as I loosened it so thought I'd wait til had it home before I stripped it to hel 5 hrs from home.... the good news is I found and tightened a loose engine mount bolt, so who knows how long that's been loose. Cheers

I believe I'm experiencing an intermittent bad battery ground and/or a short from the battery... I experienced another temporary 'black out' saturday while I was parked (believe it or not) in a wal-mart parking lot.. (btw- I swear I don't spend all of my spare time at those places!). This time the battery was known good and tested out at 12.87 volts so I removed the battery connections and un-tangled the Positive cable (thanks wal-mart's tire/lube fellas) and after I had tightened both connections, she fired right up and drove fine for the next 130miles, other than the occasional flash from the charge light PLUS the tachometer would periodically 'dance' around and jump up to 6k rather erratically. At the point the tach was acting up I was running interstate speeds with the lights on and although the voltage initially dropped down to @12.5v with the lights on, it slowly worked it's way up to around 14-14.2volts with the lights on; indicated on the dash gauge. So I may have just a bad ground, or I have a voltage regulator on it's way out AND a bad battery connection/ground wire. I left the vehicle at my mom's but the next time I go to pick it up, I plan to have a new voltage regulator (possibly a new COIL) in hand just in case I need it.. The voltage regulator isn't in stock anywhere in middle america, as far as I can tell... I'll keep ya posted on the progress; but it's gonna be a week or two before I get back down to the car.. thanks very much for your help/input! gadberry

I just had to repeat this on my 2006 outback after a dealer reset So with the seatbelt disconnected, switch key to ON position, then begin the 20 insert/remove procedure, After unclicking the last time, turn the key forward and start the car before switching it off. That did it for me but it took 2 attempts... I wear the belt while driving but having that darn alarm disabled definitely is the secret to lifelong happiness and well-being.... Ha! Peace be with

Happy thanksgiving all and hope those of you with snow have a chance to play, and post pics for the rest of us to drool over... Anyway, I'm chasing a charging gremlin and may have determined my last required part thru the process of elimination but thought I'd Check here. I had a flickering charge light a few weeks ago and the autoparts check resulted in mixed results.. 1 vote alternator and 1 vote voltage regulator so I instAlled the $30 mexican reman alternator.. As I was driving down state yesterday I stopped for gas and ole reliable's battery was dead when I tried to recrank. Gotta small push from a large stranger and was off to "wal-marts" for a battery. At this point my charge light was giving a single flash with long pauses mAybe 45secs betwen flashes and the Alternator was pumping out about 13-13.5 volts btw. I haven't recheckex the belt since my new Alt and belt was installed After the new battery was installed, several dash lights lit up the first time I cranked it, but immediately went off after started.. However, I still have the single, intermittent charge light flash occuring. So is it time to order the voltage regulator? I think so but am I missing something other thN checking belt tension? I did make it to my destination and didn't get stranded, so my pointer and I thank that stranger in Rudy, arkAnsas and those new lifted Subaru fans I met at the clarksville Wally world Any tips/suggestions for this 1981. GL wagon EA81 would be appreciated Cheers

Now THAT's a clean GL... maybe I should try this "wax" you speak of.. cheers.

I had a similar dash warning/Low voltage light (and output) appear on my '81 wagon this last Saturday as I was out for a ride. Had it checked for free at two local auto parts stores just to see if they both id'd the same part... It was a toss up between the external volt regulator and the alternator... Alternator was about 2-3 yrs old but I replaced it since it was $30 for a reman from Mexico... That was my problem so guess they don't make'em like they used to yo.. Decided to complete a tuneup while I was at it.. Good luck gadberry

1981 Wagon GL Master Cylinder was leaking down and I finally replaced it recently and bled it, but didn't do a full brake bleed... kinda thought I'd be doing the rear disk conversion soon, but that's been put on hold til I can confirm a 6 lug swap or not.. anyways, next issue is: Water pump is growling a bit, so I've got the part, just need the time.

1981 GL Wagon D/R 4" lift Turbo Muffler SJR wheel adapters/VW wheels 28" BFG MT K2's Kenwood head installed sweetly +++++++++++++ Future Mods: Fix what little lower door rust I have (dam that looks neglected) Rear Disk conversion (need time, got stuff) 6 Lug Conversion (gotta use these yota wheels I have) Build a bumper for my 6,000lb warn Mount my set of Hella's Install 50 cal machine-gun on roof with wireless remote control We had 2 decent snow events here in the mid-south this spring.. Darn Glad I decided to tackle the lift of this rig last fall... I had a blast here in the Ozarks with 12"-14" of snow on the ground.. ========== I never claimed to be a great photographer.. think that's it.. thanks!

Yep, I followed the advice of others on the board when installing, plus I've got a OEM spare in the car. I've got a waterpump with a growl and a new brake m/c to install soon so I'll be a USMB regular again, soon. Cheers

GD, thanks for the tip, I replaced the clutch cable last fall, so after a quick adjustment of the clutch, it shifts better! Still alittle hard to hit 2nd on a downshift but I haven't driven it too much since the adjustment. I'll have to try it in 4wd, but it's much better, and I'm thankful for your help. I'm sure I'll need to replace bushings at some point, but I only have 144k on the clock cheers

'81 wagon with dual range 4 speed (4" lift installed) Was out in our Uber-rare spring-time 13" snow yesterday and was having a blast, but I've noticed that it's getting more and more difficult to shift into 1st and/or 2nd when the tranny is cold.. It's better once it warms but it seems it's in a slight bind/torque occassionally and that I"m not able to get enough "throw to the left" to find 1st or 2nd. If I can get it rolling in 3rd (low range), then I'm able to work it into first. I'm fairly certain that additional mods to the stick-shift extension is in order here, but I wanted to check w/the gang to make sure it's not something else, common in these cars.. I'll also re-double-check all nuts/bolts installed during the lift, just to make sure I don't have any issues with the "cinder blocks under this house trailer". Oh, and have a look at the shift connection at the tranny, of course. It's been a little stubborn to shift into 1st and 2nd in the past, but mainly while in 4wd before it had warmed up a bit.. anything else to check? best regards, gadberry

found a pic of my 1986 Honda XL250R

Thanks for input! I've purchased a new one, so I'll wait for it's arrival and confirm it fits... Looked exactly like the existing one, but we shall see. I may tackle those rusted rear wheel cylinders while I'm at it, they're pretty cheap too. Mine are so rusty I can't adjust them, so they need to go... Anyone have a set of rear disk convrsion parts they'd part with?!? Our local salvage yards aren't loaded with roos down here in the sticks of NW Arkansas... cheers

I've searched, but haven't found an answer so here goes: I've got a brake fluid leak on an 1981 GL Wagon (2 fluid tank model) and the leak appears to be between Master Cylinder and the Brake Booster, but that's not 100% confirmed. It's the rear M/C reservoir that's leaking down over a few days and leaving a nice puddle of fluid on the "frame-like rail".. Are M/C rebuild kits worth the effort, or should I just replace w/new or refurbed master cylinder. I'm leaning towards the replacement unit, but didn't wanna do so and someone say... dude, that's a $2 o-ring fix!! I've done that B4.. thanks in advance gadberry

oh, and regarding pics.. the only way i've had any luck w/it is to first upload images into my "User CP" area (within a gallery) and then to reference the URL of those individual pics as I reference them within a post.. I think you have to donate or support the USMB before you have that option though... which is OK by me.. pic uploads aren't that user-friendly though IMO

I've got a 4" lift, so that helped me some, but I've had to do a wee bit of hammer work... yet I still have a bit of rubbing going on; especially with a four-pack o'bubba's with their 48qt ice chest in the back (private land only-of course). I carved up the outer edges of those tires a bit, before I got busy with the hammer.. and these are only 28" tires.. Ever seen air shocks on the rear of a GL wagon?? I wondered if that would help mitigate the occassional heavy load.... cheers.

Thanks for the input.. I've drilled the extra set of wheels to fit my subie, but I'm not using them at this time... for now, I'm running the SJR wheel adapters for the old VW bug wheels and some 215/75/15 BFG's KM2's and other than the slight wobble I have at about 40mph, these are good for now. Especially since I've spent so much time on the interstate... the wider rims I"ve drilled out would really kill my gas mileage!! the BFG Mud Terrains have served my needs so far... didn't stick it this fall, and with a record-breaking rainfall year (plus off-roading in the delta) I was impressed with the ol'wagon.. best regards, gadberry

yep, I agree; those sound like a great couple of projects. enjoy those BRAT's gadberry

Thurstenson, Welcome to the USMB, I'm a USMB neighbor, I guess... I'd been eye-ball'n a coupla BRAT's on the fort smith craigslist recently.. maybe those are what you own now.. congrats! keep in touch gadberry

'81 4x4 wagon w/passing lamp I got busy trying to fix my passing lamp yesterday, but ran outta daylight before I could completely remove it.. (front bumper will have to be removed before i can pull it). My light works, but the door/cover will not open. My question to those who have a functional lamp would be this.. Should I be able to open the lamp door by hand, by rotating the lever behind the motor? If so, then I believe mine to be frozen up, but if not, then maybe I just have the 'bad solder connections' on the front of the door motor... The most common 3rd-eye failure, according to other USMB users.. . Oh, and the clear vacuum hose attached to the 3rd eye door motor isn't connected on one end; is simple pinched over and zip tied to the sheetmetal bracket.is that correct? any help will be appreciated. that light is too cool not to work properly!! anyone have parts for sale? thanks, gadberry

I've successfully disabled my seat belt chime using the "25 times in 30secs" method described on the legacygt forums. I also thought there was a way to disable the open-door-key-in-ignition chime, without having to cut a wire or muffle the chime speaker.. Was that just another daydream? Thanks much!

i'm lurking for the pics.. too... they don't have to be tilt-shifted... congrats!

Hey, maybe eye can help since I've recently fumbled my way thru this procedure.. The trick was to remove the clutch pedal from it's pivot shaft by carefully removing the C clip on the left side of the clutch pedal. The pedal will slide off the pivot rod and then you'll have easy access to that clevis pin that holds the clutch cable to the pedal mechanism. I received great assistance from the membership so search for posts by my username and you'll see the great guide I was provided... Hope this helps, I was in the same boat a month ago!! Cheers! Gadberry

Any luck with fixing your passing light door? I've got the same problem, light works, but door isn't opening. Will follow these recommended checks, but I wanted to know if you had any luck w/yours? Any tips? Thanks much