gadberry

Got one on my 81 GL wagon 4wd.. Originally sold in englewood, co somehow made it's way to the ozarks... Go figure.

+1 on the "sweetness" of the 360 scrambler! And for 200 bucks!!?? Wow..

thanks; here's a recall on the 1981 Subaru fuse box http://auto-recalls.justia.com/subaru/unspecified/1981/83v026000/ not certain if this is why mine failed, but it was the 25amp... :-\ gadberry

http://Www.thereIfixedit.com it was the 25amp fuse in the underdash fuse box. It wasn't damp but it was corroded at the contacts, so it's been damp before.. Thanks for the tip about the mud, mines definitely covered in mud so I'll clean it up this spring.

1981 wagon gl anyone had this happen? I believe a leak around my stock roof rack is resulting in a damp fuse box under the dash.. Managed to drive through the woods/mud in the dark this morning but I'm hoping it's just a dash fuse or two... Think I know why the windshield was fogged... sound familiar? Gadberry

hey bheinen74, is this what you're looking for? http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/1508188893.html maybe not, but I bumped into yesterday and was able to re-locate it... best, gadberry

all air cooled and simple... '88 BMW R100GS. 125k and still kick'n '86 Honda XL250. '74 BMW R75/6 toaster tank www.airheads.org - best people on earth!

1981 Wagon GL (4spd - dual range) Purchased for $200 Changed Oil; Topped off the Radiator, Drove it home Re-Keyed ignition from original key codes, replaced 2 fuses to fix dash lights Bought/Installed 4" Slideshow lift (big thanks to USMB member help!) Re-conditioned the original Radiator Removed A/C Compressor, hoses, Condenser, etc. Installed 28" BFG's KM2's on VW wheels with SJR adapter plates New Oil Pressure Gauge Flushed Brake Fluid, Bled Brakes Replaced Broken Clutch Cable Installed Turbo Muffler Complete oil, tranny, diff fluid change Installed Kenwood head unit/speakers Drove it 4.5 hrs south to hunt and test it's mud'n capabilities and another.. sorry no action shots, but I can say it's initial test was a success IMHO

OK, the clutch cable is installed, boy is it easy when you follow instructions after GD's great step-by-step document was provided! Thanks general disorder! Btw- I did order from the dealer, but they sold an aftermarket israel-made part that looked a bit sturdier than the Italian Luk brand I picked up at autozone, which looked like the cable that failed.. Dealer part was 34 bucks vs 16 at autozone my cable failed at the clutch pedal bracket, the cable itself didn't break.

GD, It's a hard-copy document http://www.amazon.com/How-Keep-Your-Subaru-Alive/dp/0945465114 I've got a feeling when I get home tonight I'll find that it states "remove the clutch pedal" in the book too.... ha!! Your online guide to clutch cable replacement is great; thanks for that link! best regards, gadberry

oh that's gold!! the "idiot's guide" isn't simple enough for this idiot!! ha! BUT that explains my WTF moment, and I did ponder the clutch pedal attachement for a moment, but thought "there's no freak'n way that has to come off for a cable replacement". :lol: just what I get for rushing though a job, and topper for this blunder will be some electrical issue I have due to shoving the pedal up into the dash... thanks very much for the clarification! I can't do anything but laugh at this point peace,

My '81 GL Wagon clutch cable broke this week, but the GREAT NEWS is that it broke in the driveway as I returned from work... so I ordered parts and waited for the arrival, which was today..and the sun was shining so that's cool, right.. knock this puppy out over lunch.. so I read up on the replacement procedures in my "Compleat Idiot's Guide for Subarus" here's how this simple procedure quickly became a huge PITA While attempting to disconnect the "Clevis Pin" yoke connection at the clutch pedal, I realized the pin was installed with the head of the pivot pin sandwiched against the stamped bracket of the whole pedal assembly, which meant there wasn't room to back out the clevis pin enough to free the clutch cable. WTF!! i thought, maybe I can swing the clutch enough to clear that bracket.. So after disconnecting a few plugs into the ECU and removing more dash hardware, I could *almost* swing the clutch pedal up and towards the drivers seat enough for the clevis pin to clear that freak'n stamped bracket that was blocking it's removal... but there still wasn't enough clearance for easy removal Much more shoving and prying with screwdrivers continued until it was forced past the bracket.. so 30 minutes later, I had finally removed the broken clutch cable... upon comparison of the old cable to the shiny new one, it was obvious the new cable would not fit and was the wrong length.. what a kick in the pants that was!! back to part store; saturday delivery of new 'correct' part is scheduled... So, have I missed something obvious with the removal, or is this par for the course with Subaru clutch cables... it could get worse, I'm not finished.. cheers, gadberry

check out the Subaru's included on this list of great MPG cars from '78 to '81 http://www.mpgomatic.com/2007/10/08/super-cheap-high-mpg-cars-1978-1981/ I almost certain I'm not getting 40 MPG in my '81 GL.. cheers,

yes, I have the wet drivers side floorboard issue... I have an 1981 Wagon. i've not tracked down the source of the leak yet, and although I doesn't smell like coolant....it feels kinda oily... However, I don't believe it's the heater coil since it only appears after a rain.. and I think the sound-dampening fabric material may contribute to the funk and the oily feel to the 1/8 cup of liquid that accumulates after a rain. I've not removed the cowl cover yet to check those drain holes that often clog... but I can see what appears to be a drain in the outside corners of the cowl (and at the top of the door jamb; under the corner of the window). Someone should take a pic of these drain locations; particularly at the bottom of the door.. is that in the middle of the door, or in the bottom corners, or... Question: Can anyone explain how to properly remove the wiper arms, without breaking them? I've tried prying them up and off their shafts but I'm afraid I'm about the snap'em off when I do... Can't remove the Cowl Cover without those puppies coming off... this is why I've not checked for the clogged drain holes.. thanks in advance! gadberry

finished a 4" lift install on my 1981 wagon.. front axle replacement will happen tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone on the USMB that provided help/assistance with this project. it's not quite complete, but it's on the road. Front axle replacement is next; then I'll look into the other minor issues (minor drivers side floorboard leaks, dead AM/FM radio, etc) Well, enough bs, here are a few pics (iphone pics, so they're pretty poor..) I used a "Slideshow" 4" lift kit, and those are VW wheels with SJR's VW adapter plates.. 215 75 R15 BFG's fit with just a tad of BFH work on the inside lip of the front wheel wells... Cheers!! and another... here's what I started with... bone stock, original paperwork from sale on Aug 5, 1981 in Englewood, CO. ok, the rack wasn't stock but you know whatta mean..

Thanks for checking in w/me.. I've been busy with work but I have had success with shifter linkage fixes. I added 3/4" round stock to both shift linkages is the long story short. The gear shifter solution (for me anyways) was to cut the shifter just above the RING but before the "curl", then rotate the top section about 120 degrees "counter-clockwise" so that the curl juts outward toward the driver-side front corner of the car; then insert the 3/4" extension and tack it, then test it, then weld it up if all is good, and it was for me. Visit my photo gallery pics and view the comments for these pictures for another explanation if this wasn't clear... or ask me, I'll try to help. I found an excellent local welder that was willing to work w/me through the issue and he did a fine job. The HI-LO shift linkage required a 3/4" round stock insert too, but the lower section had to be reattached so that the lower bolt-eye would be about 1/2" lower than it would have been with just the 3/4" extension... so view the pics and see if that makes sense to ya if you're in the same boat I was... these mods were for an 1981 GL wagon with a 4" lift and I was able to replace all original interior hardware and all shifting works well and hi/lo lights on the dash work as they should.. I've got wheels ready to go and I my 215 75 R15 BFG's should be here this week, so I'll post pics of it again soon. hopefully muddy as #$%@ with my fat head in the cockpit.. ha! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=184&pictureid=1812

I found some 15" 6-lug wheels that I forgot I had so that's good, but I believe they're 8 1/4" wide with a 4" backspace (I need to double check these measurements). will they work under a '81 wagon (4" lift).. ? how wide is too wide and/or what backspace is required before it's just too wide, regardless of lift/bang'n? anyone running a similar size wheel/tire?

Thanks for the pic !! I hope to be back on task Thursday nite yep, here's the next modification required.. extension of the shift stick.. I believe the fix is to "cut" right above the 'curl' and then insert/weld a 3/4" extension that slightly offset's the shift lever towards the driver-side, front corner of the car... sound about right? best regards, gadberry

Have you had your steering shaft extended? I installed mine yesterday but I don't have the total length. I knew I should have measured that before I hooked it up.. I could measure it, if you need it. I don't have power steering and have one joint in the steering shaft after it exits the firewall. I'm not familiar with any differences you may have with a power steering setup.. btw- this is my first lift to install so my experience is very limited. :-\ gadberry

I havean 81 wagon w/4speed H/L range and need alittle help with a sketch or pics of the cut/patch modifications required for the shift stick and h/l linkage arm. I'd rather not fix it with a hammer but I'm no welder/fabricator so I hope to find helpful, idiot proof help before I've lost patience.. Ha! Many thanks! Gadberry

Will they fit an EA81, after the additional 2 holes per wheel have been punched? TIA,

Answered my own question.. yes, the 2 strut bolts must be undone before the engine will lower enough to insert a 4" tall block between the frame and the engine crossmember.. Also had to unbolt the engine mounts and the 6 bolts holding the front sway bar and control arms to frame before I could lower the engine 'square enough' for the engine block bolts (btw- they should be 10m x 200mm grade 5 sizes for an EA81 else they won't fit through the stock holes for the engine blocks)..where was I, oh, those rear (6) bolts had to come out before the engine would drop down and be positioned to insert bolts.. I won't have an A/C in this GL anymore... the combination bracket made to support the Alternator AND the A/C Compressor is too long to drop 4" within an EA81 and not hit the driver-side frame rail... about 3/4" too wide which is about hte width of the 2 stud lugs that are hang'n off the end of that arm for the A/C compressor.. so alittle hacksaw and then a sawzall, and off came the A/C compressor mount... Seemed like a solution at the time, but next summer I'll wish I'd scratched my head a bit more... maybe. HELP, with the strut tower positioning would be appreciated.. I have a slideshow kit, and not sure which way to position those towers that go above the front struts.. thanks in advance, gadberry

Will begin lifting the front today. Q: when should strut top nuts (2) be unbolted and dropped for tower installation. After the 2 engine and 6 smaller blocks have been installed and tightened? I undestand that those blocks should be tightened last. I've disconnected the emergency brake cables at the interior lever. Disconnected the 4 vacuum hoses that attached to the left strut tower then route around to the charcoal canister behind the drivers side headlight. Disconnected the A/C Compressor from the mount and moved it up out of the way.. Black wire coming from it was disconnected so don't think it was working anyways... don't know if it'll stay or go after the lift is completed. Disconnected the Steering shaft (lower section) and did not remove or disconnect anything else.. it's non-power steering. Disconnected 2 wires to the coil from the engine that (yellow/white to rear terminal and black/white to front terminal, plus the center coil plug..) Disconnected the H/L range shifter linkage on top of case; accessible from under hood; center of firewall. Q: can the muffler hanger off the transmission remain in place during the drop. Looks ok but would prefer confirmation. Many thanks in advance for input