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Only thing I took when I left the house was my jump pack which I always keep charged up. I know this battery has had a hard life being deep cycled by the last owner, I was going to replace it with a SLA battery but might not now.

I would do all that but I don't have any power at my house do to the hurricane we had so at a family member's house.. They said maybe Mon-tues the power is back.. I will check the water level but I assume a interstate 500CCA is like $80 I can't remember it off hand what I spent on the other Legacy.

This past storm we had (Sandy) had me starting my car more then normal.. anyways I went back to my car and went to start it I heard some relays clicking really fast when you hold the key to start.. A few more tries later it finally starts. Now before anyone asks I replaced the starter contacts early in the summer, only thing I did not replace was the plunger. Anyways, when I got home if you turn the car off and start again you have a 50/50 chance of it starting or just clicking, when it does crank over I can't really say for sure it sounds like a slow cranking start. I'm going to say must be weak battery since we are going on our 2nd day of 30's F night temps? I better bring the jump pack with me.. I can't say I'm shocked but the timing sucks with this.. I forget what the price of the interstate battery is.

I'm not dumb I had a block of wood

Picked up some Rotella T6 today

Mine fell clear off the window the first time.. I had the feeling and so I went out to check and yep it fell, but 2 months ago I was reading the reviews of this guy and yeah one drop was not enough.. two was needed, it's solid. And this last week it was showing 34F and it finally flashed ICE.. Now I need to move the temp probe, it's right in front of the battery and the hood temps can screw the temp up until I get moving, I got stuck in traffic in NYC about a month ago and it was showing 135F outside lol I want to mount it on the bracket in front of the radiator but I need to put something between the two, just my luck and I punch my AC condenser and it will be a sucky winter! The auto dim is sweet at night, no more 18 wheelers with crappy headlight aiming! or trucks with blinding HID headlights.. if you are going to do it do it right!

Good that you can deal with that, it drove me nuts.

And does not give that warped rotor feeling

That's what confuses me I'm not sure where the connection is for the hatch as far as the wire harness, the 3rd brake light I know because I did some custom work on that. I assume the FSM will show a rough location? And the colors for 97 it only had the dark blue right?

When I did my brakes Mine were smoking but mine was not because of the slide pins but because of the pistons, I'm sure it's been said here but I think it had to due with the last owner not flushing the system.. The passenger side was the worst, after driving my rotor temp was very close to 600F in some spots it went higher then my gun's temp. I tried to get the piston out with the air compressor.. Long story short a shot of 125 PSI to the brake line hole was still not enough to push the piston out. I ended up getting a loaded caliper off Amazon for like $26 or $35 powder coated it black (took it all apart) and did my stuff.. but that's extra because I will be running open wheels in the summer.

Mine got dinted last year.. You know that feeling you get.. It was windy, I happen to look in my rear view and I see a shopping cart headed right for my rear. my friken keys were in my pocket at the time I was so pissed, and the lady I saw gets the cart... I thought about giving her a little scare. So from now on any wind I park far far away. Looking on car part they have some, about $200 or so which is not bad.. I'm going to guess the hatch is around 25-35 lbs? and I assume it wont fit in the rear?

How heavy is the rear hatch?

I'm curious about this rotella oil now.. but speaking of this oil I gotta replace my passenger side valve cover gasket, I forgot all about it.. I thought I could of saved it after I had to take the cover off to get the part of the plug wire that broke off over the head of the spark plug, I guess it's a one shot deal no matter how new it was.. I leak about a quart every 2 weeks, and due for an oil change now got the filter just need the oil now.

ouch.. figured

I was just curious was the going rate for getting a replacement window? someone had tints on this one before but pulled it off which pulled off the lines, I did paint half the lines but I just thought about it, if I put tints on those lines are really going to show up.

ugh yeah I hate HATE those 5 Qt bottles, I used to buy a case of oil at walmart that was mobile because it was really cheap and they are the smaller 1 Qt kind, I think advance auto still sells by the case.

I had this happen on my 95 impreza L FWD it was not worth to swap a transmission I think it went at around 140ish thousand miles, I noticed it when backing up on a hill to a gas pump.. and about a week or so later I was no longer able to back my car out of my job parking lot.. I opened the door and pushed with one foot (flat ground) had all forward gears.. Transmission is done, I don't care if you don't believe us or not.

Ah, gotcha!

haha, question the outback wheels are they alloy or aluminum? I need new tires anyways down to the wear bars..

Bad tire.

I really can't tell the difference

I found my thread http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/help-15797/

well so much for the rain starting at 3 pm.. Anyways I checked again no play in the wheel bearing but I can't really check side to side and know for sure because with the front end up and the wheel lock it still had play.. meanwhile I checked the tierods and tried to push/pull up & down and in & out and I felt no play.. What I did feel a little play in was the axles.. I don't have a baseline to go by in how much it should be but I felt play in/out and I can't remember if I had some up & down.

It's a bit cold this morning but I'm going to go put the front end up I will report my findings.