1-3-2-4

The best I think I got from the tank with a mix of highway and city was 310 miles which was pretty impressive.. I'm still debating on taking this drive to NC on Friday.. I expect to maybe only have to fill up just twice it's 588 miles total one way. So in the end I should just have both senders replaced then?

I was too scared to use any type of flame or any tool that might spark.. what I did was use some more kroil and used a flat tip screwdriver and started pounding at it and it finally broke free, the nut was pretty much stripped because it was rusted so I ended up replacing that with some new nuts.

^ I hate that I end up just taking the key out

I think the door chime is on the back of the speedo gauge assembly. I'd have to see if I can find a old picture I took when I converted my cluster to LED but I think it's a brown or black pezo speaker. My 95 cluster I have in the house now might be the same as the 97.

Holy crap that bolt was on tight!! I had to stand on top of the engine because it would start to strip and I needed more torque down on the bolt I'd say it was between 20-30 ft.lb When I got the old one off I did not see any cracks however but after replacing it (disconnected the battery) when I was done the CEL did not come on. I'm sure however being that tight did not help things.

I finally got the sub sender out today I got no reading at all on it and this is after cleaning the track on it.. Funny I put in 8 Gal on Friday and the gauge was stuck around 3/4 of a tank.. So today after 106 miles on my trip it drops all the way to just about on Empty.. So I look in the tank and I'd say it's about 1/2

I think I ended up taking it off with the tire still on, I thought it was going to be really hard to get off but it was pretty simple. Finally got the sub sender out and replaced the nuts that held it down (rusted) Helping out a friend today

I used the extension to get to the bolt on the transmission on the drivers side lower one.

Yep.. and when I got my Timing belt kit on Ebay it included a water pump for a good reason, because it's better to replace it all at once then to have to do it again later.. I've got like 6K on my EJ25D that the same issue you are dealing with now and it haven't overheated since then. Those pictures look nasty with the stop leak!! I'm happy when I took mine apart the last owner never used it.. I bet I was the first to make it overheat however.

Some of the work I did in the past a year ago Nasty.. perfect timing because the clutch was slipping like mad in the final days

Was a reason ever given why it moved to the axle?

While I wanted to drive on the beach I'm not going to chance it with a tire with a plug and having to air down the tire. Anyone know of any spots around in Moore County? I'm not too show how things are going off-road on things like service roads and whatnot.. It's been awhile since I lived in NC so I can't remember most of the trails.

I have to check again but I think the tone ring is on with a allen screw? I assume I have enough space to move the tone ring up and out of the way.. My hammer is about the same weight.

They did

Thanks I will try and get that done tomorrow after work.

Since you are talking about studs for a '97 outback you have maybe 10 mm of room or so until the a possible strike of the tone ring. How much force is needed to get a stud out anyways? to play it safe I was going to use a C clamp but a BFH seems like it would be a lot quicker.

Should I adjust in the car or at the rotor? I forgot to check the parking handle to see if it was adjusted when I last had the console out.

I was going to buy new pads but you know listening here people before said you don't need new pads because they don't get used that much and all that. How much thicker do new pads looks?

I don't have the service manual pdf on this computer but I think the normal range is something like 6-10 clicks? Mine is like 20 clicks and I'm going to be adjusting them soon, I figured with new rotors for the rears that I would not really need adjusting but I guess you do anyways. I haven't seen new shoes for the rear but these look fine, no?

^ lol ever pinch your fingers when they are frozen outside in the winter?

I know that but I was talking about the tightening torque but I found out that info now.

Is it mostly the drivers side that starts making the gauge not work? I'm wondering should I buy the drivers side fuel sender for $80 or try cleaning it (already did passenger side) I have a 300+ mile trip in two weeks and I need a working gauge.

How much do you want to bet it's a cracked sensor? It's maybe just about a year old.. my friend had a friend install it and I have a feeling it did it rump roast tight... I'm going to guess the sensor is the same as my EJ25D with 14 ft.lb right?

Thanks! Just gotta get replacement fenders they bend so easy

A day of rest!