Battlewagon

The easiest solution is to swap the USMD intake manifold over to the JDM block. That's what you are supposed to do... OR, you can use a but ton of clear plastic tubing and modify the heck out of it. That's what I did.

I'm seriously considering going with the 272 cams for the dual cam 2.5. For tuning, what kind of ECU do you guys recommend?

Holly crap! Look at the power under the curve. It's beautiful! Do you have any videos?

If you ran into a B4 and or a B4 RSK here in the states it's either a USDM BE Sedan with B4 body parts or it isn't here legally. They used the twin turbo EJ20 which is internally just as strong as 2.0 liter WRX engine but you can't swap that unless you have a right hand drive postal car.

It's been done a thousand times before so no need to worry about being a trailblazer. May I suggest you checking out sl-i.net and their swap forum: http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewforum.php?f=31&sid=8550d0efb26fb80b34712357be777a5b In order to do a WRX (EJ20) swap, you'll need the engine, wiring and turbo crossmember to make it work. All EJ series engines match up to EJ series trans so no worry there. It really isn't THAT big of a deal but can get pricey. This isn't because of fab work (none is really needed), it's just because WRX and STi engines are still not cheap. A few companies make turbo kits (AVO comes to mind) for NA EJ25s, both the dual cam Phase I and single cam Phase II like yours but like you mentioned before, these open deck blocks can't hold more than 6 psi before something mega breaks. What you do all depends on how much cash you have and your goals. If you just want a quick DD, I would ditch the turbo plan and contact Delta Cams on this board. The NA EJ25 responds better to cam, head and exhaust work anyways: it was never meant to eat boost.

That's what I figured. Do you suggest a specific type? I was thinking that a Perfect Power SMT6 or SMT8 piggy back could work; am I going in the wrong direction?

So, how "hot" are the 272 profile cams for the Phase I EJ25D? Would I need to run some sort of piggy back engine management or would my stock ECU be able to deal with it?

Geolanders FTW!

Yokohama Geolander AT/S. Nuff said.

Castrol GTX 10w-30. The big guy gets pissed everytime I put anything else in.

More info please on your Baja! I can't help but love those things.

Awesome video man! I've been itching to do some wheeling and your pics/vids aren't helping me out.

Welcome fellow Sl-i brother! Good to see ya. Fozzy struts and springs, as well as a set from an Outback, are a great choice that you can't really go wrong with if you want some added clearance. They're slightly different, but the outcome is about the same... Tire wise, I'd look into a set of Yokohama Geolander AT/S. They are very Subie friendly and come in all type of Subie sizes (you could easily score a set of Outback/Turbo BC 15" rims) and insanely awesome. The grip in the loose stuff is excellent and the sidewalls are very, very strong. They're pretty beefy: making that "whoow whoow" sound when going around a high speed sweeper. I think it's a nice compromise between "car" tires and swampers. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+A%2FT-S&partnum=07SR5GEOATS&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Subaru&autoYear=1997&autoModel=Outback&autoModClar=

Sorry about that: I forgot to proof-read my post. EDIT: The plug wire ends are male and my coil is male. It's a US coil, and the engine is a JDM EJ25 if that means anything...

I just got a set of Magnecor KV85 plug wires (part # 45340), which are for a coil with with male connections and guess what kind of coil I have... The Plug ends fit, it's just the coil ends that do not. My question is, if I get a coil with male ends, would these wires work, or would the car not know what to do with that coil? What's a kid to do: I want to use these wires.

I'm glad you posted this here. With all the popup ads on Sports Car Frenzy, I hate going there now. This thing looks clean!!!! A 95 with a 2.2, 5sp and that low amount of miles is a killer DD! Jealous.

Yes, it has been done. Check out http://sl-i.net/FORUM/ for more info on swapped Legacies. There are actually quite a few on there. The biggest question is are you in the states or not? If so, then your options are a little more limited. Not that they're bad, but you'll want to stay with a USDM drivetrain unless you want to deal with a JDM ECU (done before, just more of a hassle). The EJ257 is, in my opinion, a better engine than the turbo EJ20. The USDM EJ20s were all single turbo; no NA or TT EJ20 made it to the states. The EJ25 turbos (Bajas, late model WRXs, STis, Foresters, etc.) produce more torque and have less lag. They tend to be more expensive, but if you're going to swap, you might as well go all out.

I don't have any pictures on me... I could get some. It's a black, 99 coupe on stock 6spokes. It's all stock and in really great shape; so much so that I plan on buying it after he goes back to an Acura.

Uh... if doing all that work to your steering column, plus custom welding all the subframe stuff is easy to you, then by all means, do it. Anyone can make anything work with time and money, but there is a reason there are only 3 functioning twin turbo Subarus in the states... and two of those are postal cars with the other one being custom right hand drive.

Well, after checking the fuel pump and swapping fuel pressure regulators (got to love having Subaru parts laying in your garage), we went to the MAF. And that was it. I drove the car back to my friend's work and it was like butter.

Oh, the DOHC 2.5... we've got to love em'. While you're in their, +1 on those pulleys/idlers. I'd also reseal the oil pump and replace the front main seal. Some people like to replace the rear oil seperator plate as well.

A good friend of mine was driving around in his 2.5RS, everything was gravy until it stalled under load and now it won't idle. It had a CEL for upstream O2 sensor, so we replaced that but nothing. I thought it was an air issue, so I checked all the vaccum lines and found no leaks (at least to my knowledge). Then we thought it was a fuel issue. Replaced the fuel filter but no go. Now we either think it's the fuel pump or maybe the MAF. It starts, tries to idle and then stalls. What do you guys think?