sparky11

Add the six cylinder and that should solve the power and towing issue. Too bad they won't build it.

Your running a 2.5, I'm running a 2.2 and if I remember at 75 it shows 52% load and doesn't want to stay in closed loop. Yours should stay in closed loop at that low load.

At 72 mph with the drag of the board rack and soft sticky snows, you are probably in open loop most of the time due to the load on engine. I've driven with similar setup while watching data stream on scan tool. The mileage, speed, load correlation is easy to see.

Contacts and plunger

Yeah, just jump from positive on battery to solenoid terminal to verify starter problem. On mine I opted to replace the contacts and plunged both. At 186,000 miles and lots of cycles it made sense to me. Now ready for the next 186,000.

No timer either, just off, low, med, high. Of course should turn off when ignition switch is off.

Probably just worn starter solenoid contacts. Easy $10.00 fix. Just replaced mine for same symptoms. You can hear solenoid engaging but nothing else happens.

Is this conditioner specified for 2005 and.up? Changed the coolant in the OBXT 2 months ago and didn't add any to the system.

How many miles are on your OB? If the lower arm bushing is just slightly cracked and torn but not completely it is probably nnot the source of the noise. Mine are quite substantially torn and ripped but not completely and are quiet but sloppy. At 72,000 miles on my OBXT, my upper strut mounts are still quiet. Usually you can determine if the upper mounts are bad by jacking up the car unloading the struts and prying up on the tire or pushing up on the tire and feeling for any vertical movement in the strut mount bearing. There shouldn't be any at all. Also check for a loose disc brake caliper mounting bolt or caliper frame bolt. I had a caliper frame bolt come loose and it sounded just like a bad upper strut mount. Only made noise over medium rough surfaces. Bad inner tie rod ends can make the same noise too.

Check the front lower control arm rear bushings. They are notorious for cracking / tearing or ripping completely out. Mine are almost completely torn out. I will NOT be using the factory part. Upgrading to a urethane bushing set will cure.that problem and make the car steer better.

I've been running 98 Outback alloys with 205 70 15 Michelin X radials on my bone stock 97 Legacy Brighton wagon with no issues. I swapped them out with new 205 70 15 Cooper Glacier Grip II's on 98 alloys with no issues other than they rub the front inner liner on full lock on a bump, and just barely. Yes clearance is tight but they work and I haven't had a tire damaged.

NICE, NICE, NICE -- The WRX wheels set it off just right. I miss my red 98 Outback!! I leased it new in 98 and had it for 2 years -- now I wish I had it back.

No special tools needed. I use a large pair of channel lock / water pump pliers or a pipe wrench to grip the large end and just let the lock washer open up on its own as it spins it out, as the washer is soft metal. Easy change out.

I have never used speed bleeders, I either have someone pump the pedal for me or I use a Mighty Vac brake bleeder system.

Service the brakes first - easiest and cheapest place to start. Only replace parts if servicing fails to correct any sticking or noise issues. Soak bleeder with a rust penetrant first the day before if you think they are going to be a problem. Open bleed screw a few turns to make sure it turns freely and to make sure it is clear and close it back up lightly. Remove lower caliper slide / bolt and pivot it up. Use a big pair of channel lock pliers to retract the piston after you reopen the bleed screw -- I use a hose and container to catch the old fluid. Slide the caliper off the upper slide pin and hang of the side with a wire or set it on the suspension. Pry the pads out of their slides and remove the stainless steel slide insert. Clean the pad slide hardware and the hardware mount areas in the caliper frame using a wire brush and a flat blade screwdriver if needed. Clean the pad ears that ride in the caliper frame. Clean buildup from inside the caliper, around the piston / boot area and outer pad contact areas, being careful not to damage the piston boot(s). Clean and re-lube the slide pins. Add a little lube into the slide pin boot. USE LUBRICANT APPROVED FOR THIS OR THE BOOTS WILL BE DAMAGED!! I spray every thing down with brake cleaner after I'm done scraping and brushing. If re-using the pads, I always lightly sand them to break their glaze and spray with brake cleaner. Dry fit the pads back in the caliper frame with the hardware reinstalled to make sure they ride freely -- if everything is good lightly lube the pad ends and install them in the caliper frame. If the pads are stiff or stick in the frame sand/grind the ears and ends until they move smoothly. Make sure that the noise reduction shims are in place --hopefully you removed and cleaned them as well. Lubricate the piston and outer pad contact areas of the caliper and reinstall. Repeat for the other side. If you are using new pads, remove and turn the rotors or replace them. Dry fit the pads in the caliper frames to make sure they slide freely. I have had to grind the ears on some aftermarket pads because they fit so tight they would stick against the rotor. Rear drums -- remove the drums and clean out all brake dust from the drum and from the brake assembly /backing plate. Make sure the adjuster turns freely. Spray a little rust penetrant on the threads to free up and lube it. De-glaze the shoes and spray with brake cleaner. Pry shoes from backing plate and lube the shoe / plate contact areas. I always remove the rust lip on the drum and buff the inner and outer hub mounting areas and never- seize / lube the central hub mount lip. Check shoe adjustment and parking brake adjustment. Lastly bleed / flush completely all the old fluid out of the system until you get clear fluid from each wheel. Brakes service is not hard but as they say "God is in the details!!"