lewisd

I have a brighton wagon 99 ej22 automatic (california emission) MAP based. I've looked for and don't believe I've seen this egr thing people mention.

sounds like a good price. I put in the bosch one recently. I was looking at the o2 sensors. is the subaru picky when it comes to sensors or would a universal one work? o2 sensors seemed to range from 50 - $111.

my 99 2.2 does the same sound and quiets down as it warms up . no problems, well other than that dang intermittent stumbling issue. :-\

I still have the stylish plastic hubcaps that came with my top of the line brighton wagon..... I'm too cheap... sorry I can't help more.

I just did mine, 99 2.2. asides from the belt, I know everything else was still original. I got kit from theimportexperts.com It had belt, three idler pulleys and tensioner for $190 (ebay kit) and had them add a new water pump. total cam to $250. I paid extra for rush shipping though. I ordered two cam seals, crankshaft seal, water pump gasket, new radiator hoses, oil pump o-ring, thermostat with gasket from genuinesubaruparts.com for about $45. I searched all other timing belt posts and used these guys advice. Dover Subaru wanted $700 just for the timing belt excluding any other parts replacement work. and they charge $92 hour labor. I gave my wife my bill...

I can agree, my 99 2.2 has 226,000 miles right now. just did my timing belt that had 140,000 miles on it (I won't chance that again though). Showed the old belt/parts to 89ru today. if anything, my idle pulley bearings were about out of grease. Anyhow, asides from chasing this intermittent engine stumbling gremlin, it's been a great motor.

I did 125 ft/lb with blue loctite on the crankshaft bolt. couple pictures, before, old new parts side by side, and after.

I search another subaru board besides this one. Came across this post with pictures of the process. My valve covers are seaping as well. fellas says his parts were $25 shipped but others said $50. either way a lot cheaper than dealership. After doing my own timing belt and seing these pics, I know I can do it to. http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2873 I have a 99 brighton wagon A/T with 2.2 (phase II) CA emission model with 225,800 miles (knock on wood). hope this helps.

All done. wrapped everything up, and nervously started it up. it seems to be running fine. guess I'm just paranoid now and keep looking for leaks or the temp rising cause of a coolant bubble (I've read to much that I've become a worry wort!) Lessons learned: I won't remove radiator again, just the electric fans. With A/T those little tranny fluid lines were a PITA getting to the clamps and they were rusted anyway. ended up cutting and replacing. I put them on the radiator ends before reinstalling the radiator. I used a craftsman strap wrench succesfully on the cam sprocket pulleys for tightening. So far things look good. the cutting out and back on while driving seems to be gone again (for now) I want to thank everyone here for their input and help. Truly a great resource!

I'm still closing things up and have a question. what torque setting to go with with the cam sprocket and crank/pulley bolt? Haynes manual says 54 ft/lbs for cam bolts and 100 ft/lbs for crank/pulley bolt. I've read anywhere between 100 and 140 recommended but one says no more than 125.

I just bought some today at local auto parts store. I'm sure major retailers have it as well. small tube for $5. NAPA only had huge tube for $17 dollars. guy laughed and said I'd only need this much as he pointed at his pinky finger nail. He said try somewhere else for smaller tube. At least they are honest and straight forward at my local NAPA. I can't find anywhere the activator it mentions in the directions. I figure it's like some super glues that have an activator, makes it cure quicker (I build model kits). It just speeds up the process but you can still use it without it. still haven't gotten a response from Permatex.

that's funny, I looked at his other pictures and it did show sealant squished out the side. but great pics none the less. Thanks Fairtax4me! putting oil pump back on tonight. I saw beer garages pic of how he held the cam sprocket for tightning. not sure about that. I saw he installed the crank oil seal onto the oil pump before putting oil pump back on. I would think it would be hard to slide over the crankshaft then.

Okay, water pump is back in, cam seals are in, oil pump is off and checked the backing screws, tight as can be. looked like grey sealant was used before by manufacturer. oil pump hasn't been touched that I'm aware of can't find the TB change paperwork back when. I have the anaerobic sealant but am wondering if the activator is required. I called permatex but got their mailbox after waiting forever. After removing old rtv, I've cleaned both surfaces with brake cleaner and will go over again with rubbing alchohol. so this sealant, a thin bead or light smear around the pump? I searched but does anyone know of any example pictures of that? This is it's second TB change. the first was around 76,000 miles by mechanic. I now have 224,000 on it. I consider myself lucky. the tensioner appears to be leaking. the old belt has light glazing but not cracked or frayed. the replacement belt (mitsuboshi) had to be sent back. close inspection showed a tooth with the fiberglass strand exposed and one broken sticking up. I'm waiting on replacement. after I get the belt and all back on can I tighten the cam bolts by using the flywheel lock method while belt is on everything? I did that when loosening everything with the belt on.

that would be terrific 89ru. My work takes me across it everyday. work at the old naval research base across from the academy (where the exchange is). I'll pm you.

Thanks for the feedback. My legacy is a 99 (purchased summer of 99) in Norfolk, VA and somehow found out later after several part differences that it is a CA emission model 2.2l. Go figure how a west coast car ended up on east coast. example I have to get a 2000 air filter for it to fit. Anyways upon inspection it definately looks like both cams have slight oil seepage (black seals) and also the oil pump region. I'll be busy with that this evening after work. gotta replace the rubber transmission coolant lines off the radiator as well. darned clamps were so rusted I just cut the line. figured I'll replace them anyways. Annapolis Subaru quoted those two little rubber sections at about $70!! I'll be getting them elsewhere. Thanks for the large paper clip idea on holding belt to pulleys. I think I'm setting a record for how long it takes to do timing belt.

Hello wise ones, I've searched and read many timing belt forums along with the articles and still have a question. I still have the old TB on and counted teeth and it looks like I have 47 on Passenger side and 44 on drivers side. According to everyone else and the manual/articles, this is wrong and should be 44/40.5. I have the timing marks all up and lined up. Maybe the tensioner (by the way seems to be from a 2.5 on my 2.2). Maybe because it's CA emission type? My TB cover also is only two sections. The small section on the drivers side and one long piece from there over. Anyways with the teeth count, I'm wondering if I should go with what manual and everyone else says or transfer teeth count. the tensioner looks like it is leaking so maybe it is off count? maybe that is what was causing my engine stumbling while driving steady or accelerating?

trade ya....

Hey everyone, looking to jack front of car (99 legacy wagon) up onto jack stands. Other than side points behind front wheel the manual doesn't say any other spots. I was thinking of using my floor jack at that center point between front wheels behind oil pan and then slide jack stands to the side points behind front wheels. Or should I just lift by the side and then snug the jack stand next to it. I'm doing the timing belt and items mentioned by others and noticed the oil pan appears to be leaking and the drivers side valve cover a little bit. trying to give myself a little room underneath. Any suggestions? I've got plenty of time with this snow blizzard outside. looks like my seals are delayed for the weekend.

see my post earlier here with the link to lovehorsepower. step by step pictures with radiator removal. only thing I would like to have seen is them remove the cam sprockets and replace seals. I ordered my 2.2l timing belt kit and pump from Import experts and thermostat, seals, and hoses from genuinesubaruparts today. I'll start disassembly this weekend. I think I'm doing this just in time, I heard a rasping noise from front of engine, not like a whining belt but like some old bearings maybe getting ready to go. I got a lot of mileage out of this thing.

I came across this link today and thought it may be helpful as well. step by step pictures, and some video, of a 95 EJ22 sohc timing belt change. http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm

GeneralDisorder, I did not mean for that to come across as an insult or that you do shady work. My apologies for sounding like that. I don't know everyone personally or their character so sometimes I lean towards the side of caution. I'll be more considerate in the future. as for the pulley tool I just ask because this is my first timing belt job ever and am wanting to make sure I am prepared and do it right.

that sounds exactly like what my 99 2.2 automatic is doing. see my "cutting out while driving" post. I still have it but am planning to do my timing belt service before I continue since it is way overdue and don't need the headache of that breaking. I replaced the TPS and the knock sensor as well as cleaning throttle body and IAC valve. My next suspect was this neutral switch. I get the P1507 code occasionally now.

I'm planning to do my timing belt and water pump while I'm in there. looking at the two suggested sellers. The import experts kits do not show the seals, do they need to be ordered seperately? mizumauto shows everything to be included however I'm wondering about quality of water pump and gasket. I see generaldisorder passed on car to another buyer but I plan on holding this car till it can't give anymore. Also wondering about this Universal Camshaft Pulley Holding Tool. I looked for one online for the subaru and saw that. would it be better than chain wrench with pulley protection under?

dang symptom is back!! I feel like yanking what's left of my hair out. no check engine light though. I'll still look for codes. could that neutral switch affect with an automatic. the endwrench referenced problem with manual. one of the earlier codes originally said 1507. just when I thought I had it licked... yup, P1507

Is there fluid in the tank? Just kidding. sorry couldn't resist. If fuse is good, maybe disconnect the plug to pump and check for voltage when switch is pressed?