lewisd

my 99 brighton wagon next to my box. I've got one of it buried with snow somewhere.

I've heard of using mothballs being used. my mom had mice setting up nest in her mercedes engine compartment and used some. seemed to help but she over did them inside to. Hard to get over that smell now. go easy with them if you use them. there are couple other remedies online search.

I carry 8ft long pinewood derby track couple times a year for the scouts in my 99 brighton wagon. board 4 boards and they're just at the dash. weekends it's my dump trash hauler too.. I tie 12 ft long canoe onto the roof rack. I've used it to go camping to. I have foldable mat that fits in back for dirty items. what kinds of stuff you hauling that you'd need to chop roof?

just did my left front 99 brighton wagon. $30 bearing, inner and outer seal from Subaru ($20), new hub $54 (old one was scored badly by bad bearing) and dropped off knuckle/hub assembly off with Western Auto service station to do the bearing swap ($80). I was debating the HF kit and getting impact wrench but passed for now. maybe next time. maybe recommend having the hub ready in advance in case it is damaged. I waited another 2 extra days waiting for that. If not needed you could always return it. few extra dollars for brake cleaner/grease etc... I did the ball joint at same time since boot was entirely blown out. now I'm trying to figure out where another new sound is coming from...

did you just replace it recently? check the two little posts on base of the the bulb that go in the socket notches. one is higher than the other. it's possible to get them in the wrong way. other things I've read before have been cleaning the socket and maybe use electrical contact gel. my left turn signal does that still, I just left it for now.it blinks slower when parking lights or headlights are on.

pins aren't rusty. they just don't spring back out when pushed in. I cleaned off old lube and put new stuff on. not much difference. tried to find rebuild kits in stores and no one carries them "anymore". I may just buy hole assembly and be done with it rather than wait more days for rebuild kit to arrive.

decided to go ahead and get the rebuild kit for that brake assembly. I saw several decent youtube how-to clips and my slide pins do not kick back out as much or as easily as shown how they should. plus that one slide pin boot had small hole.

LOL.... I thought I read your gas mileage IS 3 mpg... LOL congrats on the fix!

Thank you GD. It was Western Auto shop here Stevensville Md. with full service bays and they've done them many times before..so they say I guess. I haven't heard any bad about them and they support local car club to. Anyways, I drove for about 5 miles yesterday and pumped brakes before and after lifted, going forward and reverse. I'll lift both sides and compare after work today. spinning freely?...hard to tell with the limited movement the axle allows. put emergency brake on with blocks and put in neutral and try spinning? won't that cause some torque bind? the bearing moved nice and smooth without axle in place yet...didn't spin freely on it's own but had to constantly move with hand. I cleaned up components as best I could without disassembling caliper piston and such. I cleaned the rubber coated shims behind the brake pads and cleaned the thin metal clamps with brake fluid/wire brush. filed corrosion of pad tabs so they were free/loose in the clamps. relubed the slide pins. the piston pumped out okay. maybe the main piston caliper isn't retracting just enough to allow the play. I did notice what looked like a pin-hole/nick in the bottom rubber boot of the slide pin... but there was no rust or anything on the pins... and I noticed now a small crack developed in the pad. sometimes the simple things can become so complicated.

254,000 mile 99 brighton wagon, I just replace the bad front bearing and torqued everything to spec. and took it for test drive last night to the smell of HOT front wheel. I reviewed other posts and took the caliper off and cleaned all the parts and made sure it was all good. nothing seemed to be stuck. took it out again tonight and same thing. rim and all is hot as heck. any ideas? I had auto shop press new bearing in. I didn't have this issue before I addressed the bad wheel bearing. I torqued hub nut to upper range of what book says. maybe go ahead and get replacement caliper?

Mine had play in the hub after I took wheel/rotor off. 255,000 miles on it. I'm doing the left front wheel bearing right now. I'm having local shop press out old and new in for me. pressing was done Friday but I ended up needing new hub as it was scored/pitted from bad bearings and took couple days to arrive. Have one handy just in case and you could always return it I guess. For the hub Pep Boys wanted $150, Advance Auto/Autozone/Western Auto wanted $105, Napa wante $90, and my other local Auto Plus got one for $51 (Dorman). Thats' about what I found online for to. Should last till my 99 wagon falls apart. I was thinking about hub tamer from Harbor Freight but I don't have impact wrench like GD mentioned and I don't know what it would have been like with a breaker bar. Bearing was $30 from Autozone and 2 seals with retaining clip was $26 from Subaru. I'll be reassembling tomorrow night.

did you have an actual alignement or just reballanced tires? are they are worn unevenly on one edge (alignment) or spots going around the entire tire (cupping from bouncing old shocks)? maybe rotate the tire around (paying attention if they are directional or not) to where it's not bad vibration/pulling until you can get new set of tires. Just check theres no grinding or rough sound coming from wheel bearing.

Engine revolution sensor is the crank sensor. I thought if that didn't work right the engine would barely run, could be wrong. I'm not an expert by any means but is the code consistently the same? I chased codes saying TPS, knock sensor, o2 sensors.... and I don't have a MAF with my 99 legacy. I did seafoam treatment and replaced lots of old rubber emissions hoses, pcv valve and it helped run smoother. I think I had pin hole puncture in aged rubber that raised havoc with the engines computer. I was experiencing the mystery throttle stumble...like engine would cut out and then wake up and kick back on... I had around 225,000 miles at the time. now at 254,000.

my sympathies for your loss but glad the wife is okay. I only have liability on my 99 brighton wagon (automatic) as well at this point. I get about 27-29 mpg still.

GD, thank you for the helpful write-up. I'm in this process right now, 99 legacy wagon left front wheel bearing. I've got cv axle out and am considering doing the bearing myself with the HF FWD Tool. Ive got the bearing but need to get the two seals. My question is can the HF FWD set be used without the impact wrench? I don't have one but maybe with a socket breaker bar? Also is it hard to tell when you have the bearing pressed in to the right spot or is it a stop, undo press assembly, look and go back to pressing process? I could always take knuckle/hub to local shop with press.

Last time i was here I was doing my timing belt and now I'm working on left front wheel bearing (99 legacy brighton wagon). Not so easy getting things apart so far. I found topics on it in search. Just slowly but surely.

I did my 99 leg wagon front passenger axle two years ago following the haynes manual and a few tips from here. No problems and no fluid to catch. I did notice very slight grease seeping from the edge of the boot by the clamp recently when doing my front brake pads (and rotor replacement). it was aftermarket axle from autozone. hardest part for me was getting that darned little pin back in where axle slide over the splined shaft (transaxle ?).

Like they said, the brighton wagon is bare bones. I've had my 99 since new and now am at 227,000 miles. My son was born in 99 and it replaced our eclipse and it was a great car for the money. I would have liked the outback for little higher ground clearance and accessories but wasn't in our budget. you'll probably pay less for the used brighton and still have a decent driver.

dang.... definately glad I did mine. Mine were original with 224,000 miles on them. I have 3,000 miles since timing belt change, so far so good. Thanks to all for the guidance!! I took pics of old against new.

I got my code reader from Sears recently for $50. My light was intermittent so I reset the light before I pulled into the emission station here in MD. It passed. I still get the intermittent light with varying codes. still have the fluctuating idle and stumbling occasionally. btw... 99 2.2 legacy auto with 226,000 miles.

just checking but did you get a new gasket for reinstalling? I did mine recently and the old one was out of shape and impossible to fit back into the grooves.

wow, that's in really great shape! I wouldn't believe that it's almost 30 years old.

good advice, thanks!

just curious but are Subies finicky when it comes to alternators or will non-oe work as well?