lewisd

thanks for the inputs, will post later in for sale section and localy with pics and more details.

Well, looks like it's time to give her up. She's been good to us but I don't have time to spend wrenching on her and funds are better spent on something newer and less mileage. Got a great deal on a 2012 Sienna and looking to either get a few bucks out of her or donate to charity or junkyard. KBB says maybe $718.... It runs but has couple items needing addressing. Tired of trying to get through Marylands emission test (CEL) light. looking for opinions.

sounds somewhat similar to my problem recently. have you checked all the fuses, under hood and under dash by kickpanel? I had the "illum" 10amp fuse out and I had no dash lights/icons, no gauges worked, no interior fan, and 12 volt reading while running and not charging properly. replaced that and had 14V at battery charging and all back to normal.

I know the 6 cylinder has been timing chain but today while car shopping the salesman said he thinks they changed the 4 cylinders over to chain as well. I didn't want to debate with him so I just wanted to make sure. did the the 2.5 switch over to chain in past couple years or do I still know what I'm talking about? I was looking at a pearl white 2010 forester with 45k miles for 17,200.

Problem appears fixed. Cougar was correct. I thought I pulled and checked all the fuses but I double checked fuses in the kickpanel side and found the 10 amp illumination fuse was blown. I didn't think it would stop interior fan function, temp sensor and gas gauge. Thought it was just illumination. I measure 14.14V now at the alternator output now. ANyhow, thank you Cougar and everyone else for your help!

Thank you Cougar, I'll look into that tomorrow.

No warning lights come on when switching ignition to on position. I measure 12.4V at alternator back connector. I noticed under the dash, a green connector which was disconnected and when I connected it, the engine cooling fans would kick on and off consistently with ignition switch in accessory on position (before turning over motor) so I disconnected it again. They do turn on and off when motor is running normally. I used NAPA's battery tester that also has charging system check feature and it says "no output" from charging system. I'll go and try another exchange before going to dealership parts dept. My wife uses it to drive to/from work which isn't far so I'm putting a battery charger/maintainer on in evening so it should be good enough for short round-trip.

99 legacy wagon, 306,000 miles. Original Alternator gave out last fall and had alternator and battery replaced when car died on road. symptoms where speedo quit, no other gauges worked (temp and gas) and typical slow drain of battery. Alternator replaced with NAPA premium battery and worked fine. fast forward to today. same symptoms and swapped alternator out under warranty. their system checker says battery good but charging system no output. I checked all fuses I can find. any suggestions?

you say "newer motor". do you mean newer in the forester as in already swapped or newer than your 92 legacy motor? Also you're motor should be non-interference and his is interference motor. I personally would keep your 92 especially if the mileage is not to far apart. You know your car better and you may end up with his problems. odd that he wants to trade down, so to speak. Maybe I'm just to paranoid and untrusting when comes to used cars unless I really know what I'm getting into.

It took me a while but I was able to do my 99 2.2 legacy's thanks to all the advice and help here. Like GrossGary said, the 22 mm crank bolt can be tough. I used extension on my breaker bar and got hefty torque ratchet bar from Harbor freight to tighten back on. I've got 75,000 on it since. Good luck

Okay, I'll hold off for now and see how it does after little test driving. the hardline to softline nut is being stubborn anyways and I don't want to strip it and replace that as well. I'm gonna get the laser pinpoint temp gun to have handy to see if there is much difference on wheel/rotor temps after driving. thanks fellas.

pads were replaced not to long ago so not enough time to see uneven wear yet and caliper is brand new (NAPA). So here is update. I have car up on four jackstands, put it in neutral and the passenger side rotor spins slowly but right side obviously is being held still. same when in drive, passenger side spins at good pace but drivers side not so. I pulled caliper back to push piston back in while cracking open bleeder valve at same time. didn't help. but when I let it run in idle or drive and crack open up the bleeder valve it lets it spin again. Also I noticed that while it is running in idle or drive and I press on the brake just slightly, there is a "sweet spot" that does something to let the rotor spin freely like passenger side. So my thinking is either collapsed hose as a result of recent tie rod, and wheel bearing work when I moved whole caliper around or something or it could be dealing with master cylinder not letting fluid back in. but other noise I have been hearing appears to be on passenger side around the cv axle spinning. not the typical outside joint knocking while turning but closer to the inner joint while going straight and turning right. I'll focus on that again once I get my brake operating properly. till next time

alright, I'll try those tips. thanks fellas

THanks for responses fellas. yeah, sound goes away when I bank to the left and stays when I bank to the right. That's what I figure is bearing. haven't checked the rear cause i swear it sounds like the front. Shop that did it for me in the past did it again. I asked him to check the hub to just in case. said everything appeared fine. I don't have pulsing when braking so I don't think it's the rotor. but my rotor is getting warm. maybe raise car off all fours on jack stands and let car run in idle? listen, check for noise then?

replaced the left side bearing. The brake lines are original so I may swap them out. the new caliper worked fine when I first replaced it and test drove it until I put everything back together after the bearing was done today and did another test drive. watching youtube right now for troubleshooting ideas as well.

99 legacy brighton wagon, thought I had left wheel bearing go bad but had new one pressed in and still have the sound like rythmic rubbing sound. background....initially I replaced inner and outer tie rods (kept alignment measurements and travels straight). needless to say after that I have a rythmic rubbing sound that speeds up and slows down with speed of wheel. it stays when I turn right and goes away when turning left. after tie rods replacement the rotor got hot and I replaced left rotor and brake caliper (it was a cheepo Autozone one that rusted up pretty good after couple years). after that the sound was still present so today I had wheel bearing swapped. sound is still present and now the rotor got warm again. I know it's not often issue but maybe collapsed brake line? is it easy to see?

yeah I've searched and read those. salvage yard parts are hard to come by here and I don't want the unknown on my doorstep. Since these are all original suspension parts (300,000 miles today!) I'm good with all new parts. Figure I may as well invest in a slight lift that the outback or forester would bring. Just hoping to get the complete plug and play assembly. the 2003 forester package looks good, just have never heard of the FCS Automotive brand/label on it and they only have the rear. Don't really need high end performance items. this can be moved to off-road if webmaster prefers. Thanks for the great advise on here to!

several suppliers have the kits. here's one.... http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Gates-TCKWP328-Timing-Belt-Kit-w-Water-Pump. just shop around. lots of others will suggest changing water pump, thermostat at same time as you have to remove timing belt at anyways especially if on second timing belt change. I did mine then and still going. also others will recommend going with OE crank and cam seals at same time. I like Rockauto and subarugenuineparts websites as well. I work part time at NAPA so my discount helps me a lot.

99 legacy brighton wagon automatic, I'm replacing original struts and associated parts (300,000 miles today!) and would prefer to do it with complete strut/coil spring assemblies and only see some by FCS Automotive on parts geek. Has anyone heard of these and their quality? There aren't many complete package options out there for these. I'm also considering going with Outback struts and have read all the other posts. so either outback or forester. Thanks.

probably right, could do that to. thanks

I'm not on here posting much but now and then check in to see what people are up to with their projects and/or fixes. I do searches first to see who else may be experiencing the same problem I have and sometimes I see several results. What I don't tend to see is the resolution... I wish people would come back to post what fixed their issue. To those that do, Thank you. louie

wondering if your wheel bearing is ready to crap out.

one other thing could be like my wife experienced a while back is broken cv axle boot. passenger side ripped open and threw nasty axle grease on exhaust. lots of white smoke and stank something aweful. nothing like oil does. definately had distinct different smell. with my oil leak it just smells of burnt oil.

my 99 2.2 has slow leak around valve covers and leaks onto exhaust. one of these days I'll get to it.

http://jalopnik.com/the-subaru-levorg-is-a-hot-turbocharged-wagon-with-a-go-1467926164 read this today. only wagons (legacy size) here anymore are just outbacks, correct?