lewisd

I guess I can say this is fixed. Replaced the knock sensor and it's running great. took it to emissions inspection and breezed through it. All the throttle assembly and IAC valve cleaning helped the idle as well. reading the Haynes manual symptoms page it looks like they called the symptoms "Stumbling". Engine would "stumble". anyhow now it runs smooth with no abruptly "cutting out and back on" anymore. Thanks to everyone! Next task, replace timing belt and associated parts, especially after reading everyones write-ups on that. I'm long overdue.

Just wondering but the belt in that picture looks like it has white stripe marks on it.

Trying to see if I understand where you're at now. You're trying to pull the cv axle out now and having trouble? If so, isn't there a securing (Cotter) pin you need to knock out before it can slide off? I replaced the entire PS cv axle on my 99 legacy wagon and did like the manual and fellows here said. It took some jiggling and prying with the crow bar but the wheel and assembly swung out of the way and then I pulled that securing pin and it slid right out. now getting that new securing pin was a pain in the rear. anyway hope my two cents helps.

Okay, I"m frustrated. I know I got a bad reading on the three IAC valve pins but when I had the engine running I tried pulling the plug off. The idle went all erratic. turned it off and reattached the plug and then it idled fine. I pulled the air filter back to do another seafoam treatment down the throttle and then took it for a short drive. the cutting out/back in stopped after a short distance. codes stayed out for a while. got back home and then it idled oddly for a moment and I got the knock sensor code. Someone I know mentioned they had a bad knock sensor with similar sypmtoms on their nissan and it took several mechanic attempts to figure it out. I think I'm gonna go with the addressing the knock sensor before the IAC valve.

I guess that would be great if you don't mind. I'll still look around here. If I end up buying a whole new unit I'll post here. Eagle Salvage in Goldsboro MD says he has a 99 2.2l engine (non-CA emission) but won't part out the engine (understandable).

That would explain why when I get an air filter I have to grab a 2000 year model.. and in the past work done, I've had to tell mechanics (CA emission model). anyways, with funds as they are, I have to try and fix this myself for now. anyways I don't think I can replace the sensor alone on the IAC valve. after some researching it seems they come as a one unit. I'm trying to find one in a salvage yard. I guess I could search for a 2000 or later model as well:confused:

I replaced the IAC valve gasket after cleaning. I thought I coule just replace the sensor attached to the metal assembly.

Okay, finally figured out how to attach pictures. the chiltons mentioned taking a resistance reading on the IAC valve sensor plug. I believe I got the right plug, the one above the plug closest to the throttle cable. Voltage was good in cable to the sensor and three pins should be 9 ohms across 1 and 2 and across 2 and 3. I read infinite (open) across all of them. is this what could be causing the P1507 (fail safe) code? I'm checking local junkyards for the sensor attached to the IAC Valve assembly.

I don't have anything that looks like that. there is nothing but plastic tubing from the air intake up to the filter box. I probably just did the IAC Valve that's attached to the top of the throttle assembly.

Hey everyone, I'm back with an update. I've taken off the throttle assembly and (I believe) the MAF sensor that is bolted to the top of the throttle assembly and cleaned both thoroughly. I replaced the PC valve. I then did the IAC Valve cleaning procedure listed on theendwrench.com about spraying engine cleaner (i used seafoam recommended also) down air intake while running engine. I also read the voltage going to the IAC solenoid valve (good) but the resistance check showed an indication of an open (infinite resistance). I"m thinking replace the IAC sensor solenoid thats attached to the metal assembly? Could it really be this neutral switch? ALso someone mentioned TPS adjustment but after reading other threads, I don't believe that applies to my 99 2.2 (CAlifornia emission). My chiltons mentions it for earlier models. ANyhow after the codes were cleared, engine ran great for a while. idle was better and no throttle cutting out while running. now a couple days later it's back. The CEL does not always come on while it cuts out. when it does I get the P1507 code again. I'm having trouble attaching my Throttle body cleaning pictures Parameter Description Value DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P1507 Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop Fuel System 2 Status Not Supported Calculated LOAD Value 8.63 % Engine Coolant Temp 195.80 °F Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 -3.91 % Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 0.00 % Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 8.88 inHg Engine RPM 1,691. not sure why engine rpm says that high. doesn't sound like it's that high, at least not at idle. it doesn't want to fluctuate or cut out until I apply gas.

I now have a CANOBDII reader (craftsman 14063) for $50. my codes now are P1700 Throttle position sensor circuit malfunction (A/T) and P1507 Idle Control System malfunction (fail safe). I replaced the TPS so after researching some more I'm leaning towards measuring knock sensor (intermittent code) resistance and then cleaning the PCV valve (if possible) before replacing and if that doesn't work, then the IAC valve. engine idle fluctuates intermittently and after letting off gas it sometimes almost cuts out entirely.

Thanks

what does the "can" in canobdII mean? some say just obdII. I saw one (canobdII) on sale at Sears today for $50. probably get it tomorrow.

after replacing TPS, cleared faults and then driving, mechanic reran scanner and still got the knock sensor code PO 325. Hopefully that should be it. Bosch knock sensor for $75 online. I'll check locally as well. junkyards are hard to come by here let alone a subaru in them.

forgot to mention, 1999 legacy brighton wagon, 2.2 4cyl, automatic. changed the TPS last night and during the test drive it still cut off/on. wife drove it today and says it ran okay, no cutting out... I'd pull my hair out if I had any. CEL is on, I don't have a code reader, relied on what mechanic diagnostic told us. just got Diagnostic codes, PO 325 knock sensor circuit bank1 sensor 1, PO 122 TPS sensor (already replaced), P 1507 vehicle control auxillery inputs, P 1700 transmission control. the transmission one doesnt make sense as it seems fine.

I'd probably unload it. as other said, it will take up space, continue aging. I'm in Maryland as well. eastern shore. I like my 99 brighton wagon, but it's testing my mechanical abilities. I bought it new in Norfolk and found out it's a California emissions model or something. some parts (air filter, O2 sensors) i need to order 2000 year model. your 99 looks in great shape appearance wise.

while driving along, accelerating or cruising, the engine just cuts out and drifts abrubtly and then kicks back in. After reading, other threads, I've replaced the TPS, replaced coil, plugs and wires, air filter. I'm thinking maybe the PCV or O2 sensors now. car has 233k mile on it. Right now just trying to get this throttle issue cleared up and then work on the engine light. dang Maryland emission testing is a pain in the butt. no state safety inspections required but you better have emissions test done every other year. hey everyone, this place is great for help. I've been able to search and find solutions before but I'm stuck this time. just frustrated.