donnieru

Is it done yet? Is it done yet? How bout now, is it done yet? Damned fine job so far. Have a dancy banana type thing:banana: for all your troubles.

Cool!! My Roo thanks you. Well she will once I order the panels.

How is the fit on the rear wheel arches and rocker panels from rustrepair.com? Do any of you have the part number or a switchover number for the brushes on the original denso starter on a 5mt fwd Loyale?

The switch on top of your steering column is supposed to be for turning your park lights on. Someone must have rewired yours to turn your lights off.

88063 on my 91 Loyale 2wd 13,000 on rebuilt engine. (lost the ring landing on #4 piston)

Hello. To see if it is your radiator let the car get warm then shut the engine down. Once you make sure the fans aren't running feel the radiator. If your radiator is clogged it will have cold spots on it. My 91 Loyale had the same issues.

The blue/yellow goes in the center. It is for the door switch I guess. When I unplugged it the door dinger died, then I turned the key on and the slider locked the belt back. I plugged it back in and my seatbelt slid forward. 91 Loyale

Hello. If your are talking about the castle nut that holds your ball joint in the control arm it is the same size and thread pitch as your lug nuts.

The clock is held in the dash with a couple plastic fingers on the sides. If you insert a thin blade knife on the right side and push gently toward the pass. side door it should pop out. The wires run down behind the radio. I have seen a couple threads on repairing clocks on here. If you search for them you should be able to find them. Mine was working funky so I pulled it out and threw it away and put 2 1.5 inch gauges in its place

Hi. You can just unhook the little black ground wire on the top of the compressor mount right behind the pulley. It has a ring terminal that gets screwed to the mount. My Loyale still idles up a few hundred rpm for a few seconds but the a/c clutch doesn't engage. When you want it to work again put the screw back in it.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/stainless-steel-exhaust-flex-coupler-kits/p2012408.jcwx. I don't know if this is what you were looking for or if it would help.

here,s a link to my cardomain page. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3226563. I put my volt gauge and oil pressure gauge in place of the factory digital clock. I used the stock plastic surround some aluminum and some contact epoxy.

Here is something else worth a check. Take the rotor off and take the Phillips head screw out of the center of the shaft that you screw the rotor on to. Lift it out and make sure that the optical disc didn't twist when the rotor jammed. The optical disc is supposed to have a flat spot to keep it turning. It it has a ridge instead of a flat,pop the disc out, lay it on a board and gently tap it back flat. I had a auto place give me the wrong cap and it jammed my rotor. Stupid thing took me hours to find lol. When you put the screw back into the center of the shaft put some threadlock on it so it doesn't vibrate loose.

Thank You GD. Glad to know that it isn't going to be a issue. I am going to replace all my vac .lines make sure everything is nice and tight.

Yep it runs. It just looked strange to see the wires run like that so I figured I would ask someone smarter than I am lol. I saw it when I put the engine back together but I hadn't found this site then. When I pulled the cam case off it jogged my memory and I thought I should find out for sure. Only running issue it has is hesitation from launch to about 1600 rpm. Idles a little rough also.

Hi!! Thanks for reading this. I have a 91 Loyale EA-82 spfi 5 speed 2wd. i had my cam case off the other day and when I pulled the 4 wire plug off the disty I noticed that while it was color coded it had 2 of the wires reversed in the plugs. It has red, black, green and a whitish yellowish one. the green wire runs into the white and the white runs into the green. Is it supposed to be this way or is it supposed to go to the same color?

There is something I noticed when I changed mine. The gap in the sealing ring and the hole in the side of the lash adjuster have to be to the top. Otherwise they will bleed off and tick like crazy when you first start the engine. PITA to have to go back in and twist them lol.

I pulled out my factory oil pressure sending unit and replaced it with this. http://www.sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16339. It is available special order from Autozone for 8 or 9 dollars. They don't carry it on the shelf but if you give them the part number they can get it. I couldn't find a tee to allow me to keep my factory sender. I ended up mounting a mechanical o.p. gauge and volt. gauge in place of my dash clock. There is a pic of it here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3226563. So far I haven't had any issues out of it.

I fixed it. I took the disc out and tapped the flat spot back down with a hammer. Once I did the same to the 3 pronged metal piece underneath the disc it worked fine. Believe me I won't make that mistake again. Thanks to both of you for your responses it was appreciated greatly. It just seemed a whole lot worse than it was.

Yeah that was the funny part. All the pieces looked the same. I think that the spacing of the terminals on the inside of the dist. cap was wrong.

Hi All, I have an issue with my 91 Loyale. I tried to do a tuneup on my roo Wednesday afternoon and had a part issue with the dist. cap and ignition rotor. I went to my local Napa and bought dist. cap #EP778SB and rotor #EP845SB. After I installed them on the car I rolled the engine around 4 times and it didn't start. I pulled the dist. cap back off and found that the rotor had scored the inside of the cap and bent 3 of the 4 terminals on the inside of the cap. I checked the part that the rotor screws to it was tight. I put the original cap and rotor back on and the car and it wouldn't start. Then I took the originals back off, pulled the dust cover off, and looked at the internals. I noticed that the disc inside looks like it twisted on the shaft a little . The place on the disc where the flat spot rides is bent up on one side and not touching on the other leaving a gap of approximately 1/16th of an inch. Now my question is how do i get that disc off without bending it so i can get the disc flattened out and realigned? the dist. #s are 22100 AA440 for the top row D4P86-03 B1105 for the second row. I read through these forums last night I checked all my fuses and fusible links and the car ran great. I am 99% sure that the disc twistage is the issue and im certain that if i get it off i can get it back into shape.