Russell

I just recently did this as well. Yeah getting the boot on using the large axle nut socket just cracked the darn thing. There was a metal band in my boot that would not expand to fit around the ball joint body. Instead it just tore through the rubber. I ended up using this tie rod end boot I had laying around. I kind of wonder if they didn't give me the wrong boot... Got it at advanced auto parts as a matter of convenience. Prob should have went with sub genuine.

I don't know about the carb models but the air control valve on the spfi is used to bypass the throttle during startup and idle and such. It seems to me you shouldn't have one of these if your running stock carbed. Maybe its been switched from spfi to carb sometime. Somebody else needs to chime in here I think.

From my experience, a clicking axle, damaged cv joint is the cause of heavy vibration at highway speeds. I think you'll have trouble removing this vibration with just a tire balancing.

Yeah, hey no hard feelings rallyruss. I was only trying to defend my position and not attacking yours. I really have no strong feelings about it at all. The flowchart in the service manual doesn't seem to start you on the most obvious problem first, rather I see it as some complete guide to follow if you haven't touched it before. Which is why I personally use it. For although I have experience with electronics, I haven't been working on cars for that long. Speaking of your above advice, I guess I need to remove the heat sheild on the cat to get at the 02 sensor with a normal wrench. It doesn't look like its going to come off easy, you know what I mean. Did you recommend another tool I could find at a local store? What was it?

yea, now that you say it I can see my post is definitely wrong. Instead of saying to measure the voltage drop -- do 1 and 2. it should say to read the resistance -- do 1 and 2. Sorry about that, and thanks for the correction rallyruss. As for the rest, my point is mainly to make it simpler for somebody new to multimeters to make a measurement of a bad component. Though perhaps, as you say, this isn't the best advice. It is however the advice given by the service manual. At least in 89. In my opinion a circuit like the egr solenoid which comes directly from the ignition to the ecu, should give a reading of 12 volts as if you were measuring the source, regardless of the condition of the solenoid, if it were open you should still read the same voltage across the terminals of the solenoid in the circuit. For this reason I can't see how the voltage test is any better at finding a fault. Am i missing something else?

It is my girlfriend's car, but when I had a chance to drive it I felt there was an improvement in performance. She seemed to agree, difficult to tell though. Biggest thing for me was to get the check engine light to go off on the dash. I was pretty happy with the way the service manual laid out the flowchart for testing. Measuring a voltage drop across a device is very similar to measuring the resistance of the device. The difference is the device is still in the circuit for a voltage drop test. Essentially if you were to measure the voltage drop across the egr solenoid you would do that with the solenoid in the circuit. If the voltage across the terminals to the solenoid was the same as that being supplied at the harness you could assume the solenoid to be an open circuit and needing replaced. I couldn't say what the voltage coming from the harness should be in this specific case, I would imagine though that it wouldn't just be some standard across all cars, since small effects like line resistance would change from one car to another. To measure the voltage drop on the solenoid you could: 1. disconnect solenoid from harness, measure voltage across the two terminals of the harness. 2. reconnect the solenoid to harness, measure the voltage across the two wires again. as to what reading you would get with a working solenoid I couldn't say, but rallyruss seems to have an opinion on that. To me it would seem that you should still see the same voltage as in step one in both cases, that is assuming the source from the control unit is maintaining this voltage despite the draw of current by the solenoid. Maybe this is just making things more confusing, but I am trying to outline why I like the resistance test better. With a resistance test the device is removed from the circuit and you are performing a tried and true reading of the resistance characteristics of it. If they are not within some range of the specification then the device has failed. Of course, it is not always so easy to remove the device from the circuit... but I think for these instances the service manual would direct you to the right type of reading to take and what to suspect within a given range. whew... that was probably more than anybody wanted to hear. By the way, electronics is where I have personally been trained. In addition to physics, so I would like to think that I know something... Somebody could always come and prove me wrong though :-\ . Let me know what you come up with on removing the O2 sensor if you do, the "special" tool from the dealer for this task is $130!!!!! I've been trying to think of something else to use or even build to get at that darn thing.

Just as a warning to you, don't try to measure resistance across something that you suspect will have a voltage. This can burn out the fuse in the meter. Measuring resistances is usually done with the device that you are measuring out of the circuit. This is in agreement with what was said above about measuring the egr solenoid. It should make no significant difference whether it is hot or not, since the egr is a solenoid it should have a finite resistance or infinite/short to indicate a problem. I just recently tested mine, the car had been sitting for perhaps 45 min. since I had it on the highway, i got a infinite reading on the egr solenoid. It had burn't out somehow and was open. Replaced it with another and the problem went away as verified in the diagnostic check mode on my spfi.

I'm not a rally guy, but here is what I know. At least this will bump you back to the top. EA81 overhead valve engine, carbed, no timing belts I think. Most of the guys seem to like this better since there is no timing belts to worry about. EA82 overhead cam engine, carbed ( I think ) and SPFI, and MPFI models. timing belts of course, along with the problem of cylinder head cracking between the valve seats. This is typical though, and usually causes little problems. Seems to me if your rallying, you ought to have turbo. Welcome to the board.

You have a personal message. -- Russell

So its driveable and inspected? How many miles on the engine and tranny? Girlfriend is looking for a daily driver, she won't do the stick shift, so this might be an option. I won't have any money for it for a couple of weeks though, so hopefully that wouldn't be a problem.

Hey there, I don't have access to the technical service bulletin on the problem with the cylinder head cracking between the valves. I have crack that extends a whole inch from the seats. Is this normal, or do I need new heads? Running an 89 EA82 SPFI. Thanks in advance. Russell

Maybe its low fuel pressure. Due to a small leak? I don't normally smell gas. Perhaps you could check the pressure regulator, and fuel filter/pump for correct fuel pressure.

For adjusting the rear shoes for a worn drum, my 89 DL has manual adjusters. I turn em clockwise till the drum won't spin any more then back em off about half a turn. Some of these cars have automatic adjusters though.

I'm interested in both the 2wd and the 4wd tranny as this is my daily driver and I would be stretching myself to do this coversion soon. Throwing in the 2wd till I can make time would be great. If the price is right. MorganM, I would definitely pay to have it shipped. or maybe we could work something out to drop it off with someone coming to the carlisle show. I can pick it up from there no prob. MilesFox, which one do you have, is it in good shape. definitely interested and I can come down to pick it up. thanks guys... russell

2wd tranny is going bad and I think I am going to do the conversion to 4wd D/R unless I can get a real cheap 2wd (maybe). Can't find one around here or online. I'm running a stock 1989 DL wagon, not turbo, EA82. I've read many of the threads for this conversion, any have specific advice for my vehicle? I'm a first timer... Can somebody tell me a what is a good price to pay for a 4wd D/R tranny for a EA82 SPFI non turbo? Does anybody have one they want to get rid of? I'm in PA. Thanks.

Exact same problem on mine, Dealer says its the axle. Got a new one in the mail last week. Yet to replace it though. Too busy.

You can test the blower motor operation with the vehicle ignition in the run position but without the vehicle running. If the motor is spinning you should be able to hear it. I don't think I would remove it quite yet. From your first post I would guess it's not spinning at all... If it is not you can check the electrical connectors (green/white on mine) at the motor for a voltage with the heater controls on. As far as the compressor relay, it would be my opinion the problem is located somewhere else if the heater controls are not working properly either.

If your model is equipped with vacuum controls on the dash ( you can tell this by a hissing sound in the dash when you turn off the heater or air conditioner ) pull off the control panel and check the vacuum servo motors and lever and cable operation. I recommend picking up the Haynes manual 89003. Section 3-10 gives a nice treatment of the vacuum controls. Belt is okay right?

Alright thanks guys. I'm hoping some of your tips will make it less of a PITA this time. What is the OTC tool called, or should I ask a auto store about it? Gettin it out of the steering knuckle for me has always been way easier then reassemby...

I've been trying to find a thread related to this question but with no luck. What is the easiest way to separate the driveaxle assembly from the steering knuckle. It's recommended to be taken to the dealer as it requires a special tool. Last time, when I replaced the boots I had no idea of this and carefully used a sledge to reassemble. Any help would be great? I really don't want to take the whole assembly to the dealer. :-\

Never mind I found a picture of noahs car on the subaru image gallery. Sorry, i'm new here. Russell

Ok thanks guys. I'll do the compression test next weekend. Mind if post the results to get some reinforcement? I understand its easy to misinterpret. How would you pressure test the coolant system? Oh by the way, do you guys have a better idea for separating the steering knuckle from the drive axle assembly without taking the whole assembly to the dealer as recommended in the Haynes 1600 & 1800 manual. Last time I did it I used a sledge, but I think in hindsight this maybe was a bad idea. thanks again everybody. I know i'm new here, but you guys have been really cool and helpful. Russell

done a bit of engine work but not this, wanted to be certain that it was a good idea to replace these types of items. It's cool that I am not doing a true rebuild though right? Engine runs good, I really don't want to get into the crank and pistons on this project. thanks tensioners and idlers, only if necessary?

Hey noahdl88 do you have any pics of your wagon, I have an 89. I'd be interested in seeing how yours looks Russell

I think as project I am going to replace the oil seals on my DL wagon. Leaky cam covers (usual I suppose), I figure I ought to replace the head gasket too, though no noticeable leaks except burning a little coolant (maybe). Any advice on part replacement while I have the engine apart and out of the vehicle. Like replacing the oil pump or something? you know, must do's that I don't know about. Maybe I'll just be opening up a can of worms here. Thanks in advance. 1989 DL wagon, SOHC, TBI, 1.8L. 160,000 miles, 85,000 of my own doing.