98sub2500leg

Great, thanks for the info, the double marks are the ones I was referring to.

The problem here is that two of the pulleys that are supposed to align with the double marks are not quite aligned. All the other marks are aligned though. That's why I was wondering if when I remove the belt I should try to realign them to the exact match or align them to the slightly off position they are not in. An Endwrench article says they might not align perfectly, but also states they all need to be aligned perfectly, which they are currently not. Also, is it easier to loosen all the pulley bolts prior to removing the belt or is hand strength good enough to hold after removing the 1st pulley and TB while loosening the pulleys and sprockets?

This is a 98 2.5L DOHC. I have the timing belt ready in position and ready to remove, engine on the stand. The marks are all lined up. Of the 5 mark positions, most line up pretty dead nuts except for 1 sets of double marks that don't line up quite exact on the left side cams. They are a degree or two off from lining up with each other however they are , close but not exact. Whoever changed the belt before (I think I only had it changed once before at the dealer) ran a single white line over the double marks as a reference to line then up. I will count the teeth before I take it off to be safe. I made paint marks on each pulley, cam and crank sprocket in relation to the belt. Since the last mechanic did the job with the engine in the car, I figure it is possible a cam got slightly out of position. The question is how do you know each cam is perfectly lined up. I don't want to assume the last guy did the job right or he didn't have a cam slightly move on him then he reinstalled the belt . The cam to cover alignment marks have to be a good general reference indicator that things are lined up in relation to the TB. It doesn't necessarily seem to me that it is an definite indication that each cam is adjusted in the perfect position. Seems that checking each cam lobe individually in relation to each corresponding lifter while rotating the crankshaft may be the way to verify this. I also thought of checking compression on each cylinder before removing the belt to verify this, but not sure if that is the best way either. I decided to get the service tool to lock the cams in place before removing the belt to be safe. Has anyone done this without the cam lock service tool? The dealer says to grab the pulley by the hand and use an impact wrench. They only use the locking cam tool when changing the belt in the car because they can't get an impact in there due to clearance. Seems to me that a cam can easily slip which can be taking a gamble. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the socket sizing on the heads. I have the TB ready in position and ready to remove. The marks are lined up. Of the 5 mark positions, most line up pretty dead nuts except for 2 separate sets of double marks that don't line up quite exact. They are a degree or two off, close but not exact. The car ran great though, before not sure if it was adjusted properly after the last TB change at the dealer but from what I have read, this can be normal (the marks not aligning dead nuts). To remove the pullys A Subaru mechanic at the dealer told me to hold each pully by hand and use a impact wrench to loosen each bolt. Does this sound right? I was also inquiring on the service tool Endwrench suggests to lock the cams so they don't move when removing the TB pullys. they told me it is only needed when the belt is changed in the car. Endwrench suggests to use it though. The guy said it is not a big deal if the cams move, he said you can move them back and having the valves hit is not an issue when slightly hitting if the cams do move. Seems safer using the tool. Doesn't look like many others have used it though, not sure what to think. After the TB is removed what is the best way to remove the cam spocket bolts without having the cams moving?

Since there was oil in the coolant I want to get all of it out before replacing the HG's. Seems easier to drain it all out now while the engine is out on the stand instead of reinstalling and flushing it later.

Is Endwrench a subscription only site? I have never been able to access it without first paying unless someone sent a link. The end of the head bolts seem to have a propietary socket. Is this a Subaru special socket I can buy? Also, it would be helpful in knowing the coolant drain plugs hex head size.

Can I get a procedure on the exact steps to removing the cylinder heads for HG replacement. This is on an Outback 2.5l DOHC.

The bolt came off using the 22mm with a 1/2" drive and a 3/4" x 2' blk pipe cheeter bar. The pully came off by rocking it by hand (I was lucky).

Hi Dave, I have the engine out on a stand. Just got back from town (again) to pick up a 22mm 1/2" deep socket. I was told by a mechanic that he uses an impact wrench and they come right off.

Just verifying the crank pully bolt removal thread direction. I would assume the direction is a CCW to remove, I don't want to assume though. On my 1st car some bone head broke the bolt off and cracked the pully. To sell the car he rewelded the pully back on. after 2 days of driving the weld broke and I needed a new engine.

Got it out and it is on the stand. Used the screwdrivers, worked well for initial separation, then cut a wedge in a few 2x4's on the bandsaw for a few pry levers. I used my Kubota with forks for the pull out, couldn't get the right angle though. For some reason the tranny bell housing was up higher than the engine, even when I had the trans. minimally supported that bent the 2 lower housing studs, other than that it was how it usually goes. It has been several years since I did this. Not looking forward to reinstall. I believe it is because I used wheel stands to support the car so it was probably up higher than I should have had it.

I have liquid wrench on the pins, the 2 are fairly well stuck together. Can't find a good point or position to get a good wack on the housing.

I just got done doing it, I had the same ? from yesterday. You don't need to remove the axel to get to the lower nuts (I have a 98 Outback 2.5L and they are nuts). Use a 3/8" breaker bar (non ratcheting type with universal joint on the end) with a short 6 pt 14mm socket and something like a 2' piece of 3/4" black pipe as a cheater bar on the breaker bar. I did remove the starter bolt (drivers side) and also the passenger side upper bolt. I am having trouble separating the two now with everything cleared.

I have the engine supported, all fasteners removed from trans., enginge pulled up to clear the 2 motor mount studs. Any tips on separating the eng & trans. ? There doesn't seem to be enough room to tap the bell housing with a block of wood & mallet. I know there is a method to the madness.

One point is that on the overheat problem, you can have no bottom hose coolant flow from a closed TS, but gauges work in normal levels fooling you that you are not overheating. In certain conditions the temp gauge intermittently goes high. When this scenario takes place you basically lost coolant from resevoir overflow as I did a lot of testing on it under different conditions. I am hopeful the engine hasn't been compromised. It seems to run as well as the day I bought it-strong & solid. However if it needs a lot of internal repair ($$), I figure I might as well buck up for a CCR with a 3 yr warrenty.

Thanks for the response. I am pretty well tooled up. I have kept the car clean and will be keeping it long term so plan on replacing all seals, gaskets, TB, tensioner,idler pullys, belts,wp, plugs,wires, possibly o2 sensor, hoses,oil pump seals, hoses. What would also be helpful is knowing if I need to replace the CH torque to yield bolts. Some Sub mechanics swear they reuse them, others claim you can only use them once. At around $15ea x 12 that adds up, on the other hand don't want to take any chances. Havn't purchased the parts yet, waiting to remove eng & inspect. As much as I want to avoid the dealer, I will most likely pony up for most of the parts there to remain OEM.

I have a 98 Sub Outback Limited 2.5L. Seem to have the HG problem as most others do. I am the original owner, the car has been intermittently overheating since the 60k mile service, and it now has 107k miles. If it ever got to 3/4 of full scale I would shut off the engine, after a few minutes restart-problem usually goes away. Slow buildup over time of oily sludge in the coolant reservoir. Lower rad hose not flowing, upper however runs normal, t-stat works fine. Even with this condition most of the time it runs at normal temperature (not sure how that can be). Coolant overflows out of the reservoir as I can see evidence around areas of the engine. No coolant is evident in oil; the car doesn't burn oil either. Car runs great otherwise, great car, great engine. Hopefully don't have a cracked head (or worse micro crack that I won't be able to see). A warped head I can deal with. This all started by the way after I sent the car to the dealer for the 60k mile service which include a coolant flush. After I got the car back, I started smelling coolant after I drove the car home from work, but never could find any drips. After 2month of that scenario it did its 1st overheat on the fwy. Had it towed to the dealer, they told me I was low on coolant, but needed a $2000 HG job with no explanation why. Took it to another reputable mechanic, he ran it for 45m then tested for hydrocarbons, found a trace but wasn't enough to reach a conclusion, so I have been driving it since 5+ yrs now (the overheat problem isn't too often). The coolant now has an exhaust smell. I believe the HG has eroded the HG and is leaking internally, building a pocket of exhaust gas near the t-stat and preventing it from opening. It’s possible the dealer may have not filled the radiator properly, which led to coolant loss, or an air pocket internally, which created a hot spot, which eroded the HG. I do realize this is happens on most of these cars anyway, but the coolant leak didn't start until right after I had got the car back from the service. It takes a while even with refilling the top hose directly and with the top radiator air lock screw removed to properly refill the coolant. Most would believe from reading all the internet posts that 60k miles for a HG on these cars wasn't abnormal, however, there is always a cause & effect for everything. I also could be wrong. I now have the engine nearly ready to remove except for the last top tranny-eng bolt & bottom nuts. Do you have to remove the axel to access the driver’s side engine-trans. nut, or can you use a universal joint with an extension to remove it, or is there another way to access it without removing the axel? Will most likely need more advise on the way through the job. Any help would be greatly appreciated.