friendly_jacek

Any follow up on this? And BTW, according to FSM (in kohms I presume): #1 cord: 5.6 — 10.6 #2 cord: 7.3 — 13.7 #3 cord: 5.9 — 11.1 #4 cord: 7.3 — 13.7

Jamie, I sent you an email with a request for parts. Thanks.

And the prize goes to Blitz. The pressure read 42/52 psi with/without vacum, respectively. According to my source, normal is 30-34/41-46 psi. I am going shoping for new fuel regulator. Attn: people with poor MPG and no ECU codes but negative long term fuel trim, check your pressure!

Hurrah! I am not alone, this means there are 2 of us against the whole country!

Well, if you do a search here, you find that it did help many people. It makes sense, if fluids are neglected and dirty, particles in the fluid will make the clutch sticking. One vote for articulated and one vote for opinionated.

It's a myth. Did you test it yourself? I did and there was no difference in MPG.

NGK plugs read 5-6 kohm or so.

I see you pain. I travel to Europe very often and pay big Euro for gas. Fortunately, diesels are common there. Here in US, gas price is still at historically relatively low levels if one adjusts for inflation.

Maybe your car had the ECU issue with ECU geting confused and throwing O2 codes left and right. There was a recall with ECU reprogram. Thust a thought.

Second on the articulate part :-)

Unhook and press brake pedal. Are you sure the wires are secure in place? Maybe need for dielectric grease for the connections? Did you check the resistance of plugs and cables? Keep up posted, I am planning to put the laser platinum in soon.

Hi, Does anyone know if any of these sites accept subaru bucks?

You can try ebay but 2 things: first, the data is usually pirated. second, ask what you are getting. I thought I would get factory manual, but I got mitchell software that is difficult to navigate and not as comprehensive as I thought. Still useful, though.

Well, it looks slick and powerfull, but it is pricy and the software seems overly busy and complicated. Gives you only slightly more info than a plain interface. I guess CAN can be a plus for the newest cars.

This is almost like asking for a favorite oil brand. All over the map!

I hope you got yourself double platinum (aka laser platinum) NGK. Single wire platinum electrode will disintegrate itself in no time in Subaru's waste spark ignition system.

I like your padding post total comment! Like one would care (not); go ahead and pad yours! I was gently trying to steer you to valuable past discussions here, like: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30297&highlight=spark+plugs+platinum I guess, it backfired. Thanks for your suggestion, I will change my moniker to unfriendly. Wait, friendly was just sarcasm!

Blitz, you're da man! I will check the pressure today when I get ahold of a gauge. I totally makes sense for that to be excessive. The ECU reports -11% long term fuel trim. Meaning that computer substracts 11% fuel to make the O2 sensors happy. Obviously, in open loop, the engine gets the excessive 11% fuel. Since all sensors work fine (it is so much easier to test MAP vs. MAF!), this points to fuel delivery. SevenSisters, The 16 MPG is with trips less than 10 miles, more like 3-4 miles or so (my wife has a short commute). But it used to be more like 20 when the car was new. Furthermore, I never got more than 25 MPG, even with pure, long distance hwy trips. I used techron and redline injector cleaners on many occasions. If the fuel pressure is correct, I will go after the injectors.

Ha, ha, ha! I see that you dislike the search feature on this site...

Thanks Blitz, Is there an easy way to check the pressure? ECU does not report one via OBD2 and I don't see any pressure measuring ports on fuel line. This is SOHV phase 2 2.5L H4.

There was a looooong discussion on plugs several weeks ago. It is one of the issues that keep coming back again and again (why cant we use sticky threads like NASIOC does?).

Well, it's alabama, so not that cold (freezing once, maybe twice a year :-) Fuel in oil content is a part of every standard oil analysis. I did the analysis in part to prove the problem to the dealer under warranty. Those "factory trained" idiots never ever heard of oil analysis. Now, the car is out of warranty, so I can play with the engine a little, just don't know where to start. To summarize, close loop operation is fine, it is the open loop I am concerned about.

No, I checked it with OBD2 interface, the temp it reads is real, both in cold and hot conditions. Thanks anyway.

If your subaru is 1999 or newer, it uses A/F ratio sensor also known as wideband O2 sensor and most generic OBD2 will not suport it. The one from http://obddiagnostics.com/ does but only with the newer 2.3 software. I use it and works great.

Placebo effect. I did a study alternating tankfuls with and without FWD fuse. No difference in MPG (nor there should be if you think about it).