friendly_jacek

Pacey, have you figured out the answer? I measured timing via OBD2 in mine and the advance is 15 deg on idle and much higher under load (seen higher than 30 deg at high speed). If your numbers are much diffrent, you could have a problem.

Are you POSITIVE you got LSD? For instance, I paid for upgraded speakers in my 00 but they sound like regular, never checked what's inside.

Did you say there was a clunk? There is a TSB decribing clunk while AWD cluch engages as normal. Not sure about groaning.

Before shelling big $$$ for new MAF one should try cleaning it first (but very gently). Also, good mechanic knows that sensor connector problems are almost as common as sensor failure itself.

The only problem with that theory is that the "factory tested" Castrol SH has little in common with the SM-rated Castrol now. But seriously, the margin between the current regular and synth oils is smaller than ever. Today's regular oil would be called synth blend or semi-synth just a few years ago. On the other hand, one should distinguish between heavy duty engine oils (API: SL/CI-4+), performance engine oils with high HTHS (ACEA: A3, VW 505.00 and similar), and the light duty oils optimized either for gas saving (ACEA: A1, API: SM/GF-4) or long life (ACEA: A5).

If so, why people in late 90's subarus were getting the infamous acceleration hesitation fixed by knock sensor mods?

Blitz, I like your sig line. Lets not forger that Sadam Hussain was getting big help from USA back in 80's too. And finely, USA supported military coups in a few latin america countries. It is funny how USA chooses its friends.

I test drove 05 toyota sienna and was very impressed. Liked it better than my friend's Oddysey. Didn't have a nerve to trade in my subaru legacy, though.

Strange, under the AT filter, there are several choices, from $6 to $22. How do you know the choice $14 is the correct one?

I thought piston slap was caused by short skirts and clearance in the cylinder. Pacey, I have no short answers here, but if one uses OBD2 interface, wouldn't the excessive retard show up? Subaru's ECU reports degrees of ignition timing. Unfortunately, don't know the spec/expected number.

Why don't you trade in the suburban? Hint: you would save on fuel this way.

No.

you are wrong about the plastic intake. It is much better for a number of reasons: the air does not heat as much as with metal intake, the air ducts are smooth, it is lighter. When toyota put plastic plenum in corolla, HP went up 5 HP.

Reporting back on my aceton trial, 3oz/10gal: 16.5 MPG, used the same pump, 87 octanes, no alcohol gas. "Normal" in this car for city driving is 16-18 MPG. And yes, I managed to spill some acetone on pain and tire but no adverse effect. I also tried without result in my toyota. I sounds like it doesn't work for modern MPFI engines. It tells you how desperate I was to improve the bad MPG in my car.

Have you changed ATF+filter lately?

One more thought: the 2005 2.5L NA is now rated 30MPG hwy with a couple of more HP, heavier car (slightly), and 2700lbs towing. Anyone knows what are the changes in the new engine?

Thanks cookie. It sounds like you mostly drive with warmed-up engine. The problem with my wife's driving are short distances on cold engine (3-5 miles each). Subaru engine is big and slow to warm up, even here in South. I guess thicker oil takes a tall on MPG in this situation. I will try german castrol 0W30 (aka SLX) next summer since its viscosity is right between 30 and 40.

Cookie, I'd hate to steal the topic but how you you drive your sub? When I started using 5W40 in mine (due to boat towing), there was no MPG difference on hwy but extra bad MPG (in the range 16-18) in city (short distances driving). I am saying extra bad because it was bad even with 5W30: city 18-20, hwy 23-25.

Check the australian sites. They consider 2.2 subaru the best towing car ever. I tow a boat with mine with no problems. However, I have 2.5 that is better for my heavy boat.

No wonder this guy is confused. He asked for an advice on MT and got one on AT. Go figure!

sea#3, good find. the article clearly explains that the downshift is triggered by brake and released by acceleration. maybe your TPS is malfunctioning if it still downshifts while you are adding gas?

Read your car manual, it is suppoosed to stay in 3rd to warm up the fluid.

If you look hard enough (on the web or even this board), you can get FSM for free. The ebay people sell you pirated FSM, Michell or similar.

I agree, I have 2000 legacy and it runs 16-20/22-25MPG city/hwy. Foresters tend to have similar MPG compared to legacies. I know there are some people on this board getting 30MPG but that is unusual. Subarus and not very fuel efficient. After saying that, it would be still an improvement from the Durango.

is AECS the same thing as ECU? I have never heard of discharged battery frying electronics. But I guess it could happen. On the other hand, I had a tach fried on my boat when a battery cable was loose and sparked. Was this your original battery since 1996?