friendly_jacek

The only straight answer I can give you that you HAVE to read these "cryptic" codes and diagnose the problem before attempting to fix anything. Good luck!

do a search on both "piston slap" and "belt tensioner noise" plenty od read...

Quoted from http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/airflow/ "Lets start with the intake manifold which is designed with long runners branching off of a relatively small plenum chamber in the center. The long, small diameter piping works well to provide low-mid range torque by improving cylinder filling at low RPMs. At high RPMs though, this long tube design can eventually become a restriction and would need to be addressed. Don't necessarily think you need to go out and spend your hard earned money on a new intake manifold quite yet though. The cylinder heads are still the biggest restriction in the intake system so you're better off addressing that first before swapping over to another manifold. If and when different intake manifolds become available, be sure they are part of a system which also includes a matched cylinder head and cam. Otherwise, you might end up with a intake manifold designed to work at high RPMs and a cylinder head and cam designed for low RPM torque. Unfortunately, there is no one manifold design perfect for every application and be wary of manufacturers who claim otherwise."

I see it this way: Subaru's headgasket vs VW's engine oil sludge in turbo gas engines. Well, I will take the headgasket... On the other hand, TDI is solid, but a tad slow. Edit to include the newest VW sludge rule: http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid=151&did=1085

OK, You have to realize that the viscosity difference between 5w30, 10w30, or 0w30 is great at -30 or so but not that great above 0-30C. Furthermore, some 0w30 oils are THICKER at room temp and/or working temp that your 10W30 mobil1 (low 30 weight). Syntec 0W30 being the best example (almost 40 weight). If I remember correctly, 5W30 mobil1 is also slightly thicker that 10W30 mobil1 at working temp (100C, 212F). (Edit: not true, checked, no difference whatsoever) So much for your generalization... Edit: This is from mobil website: viscosities in cst at 40C/100C 0W30 56/10.3 5W30 56/10.0 10W30 62/10.0 to compare, german syntec (aka SLX) 0W30 is 12.2 at 100C. Unfortunately, there is little data published for viscosities at the everage US "cold start" temps circa 0C/32F. So, use you ear...

Is this your first car with AC?

The intake in 2000+ subs was optimazed at factory for more torque at low to mid RPM; drive older subaru and you will see a difference. If you don't like that extra torque, go ahead and take it off.

Same here. Last time I actually forgot to put the washer in, no leaks whatsoever. I will put one back on with the next oil change. In my older cars that I used to own (non-subaru) I had the washer cracking and causing leak itself. Go figure.

The real reason for hwy difference in MPG between AT and MT is the taller gearing in AT. AT cars rev at 3000 rpm at 70 mph (which I confirm in my 00 legacy) vs more like 3500 rpm in MT (so I am hearing). I also used to belive in that 90/10 vs 50/50 difference but no more after trying FWD fuse (100/0 split) that gave no MPG difference whatsoever.

Good luck, BTW this is the Toyota's TSB: http://www.autosafety.org/Toyota%2003-04%20Corolla%20Catalyst.pdf Notice that even toyota's house chemists got it wrong and called the odor: "sulfur dioxide". This is the response I got from EPA, if it may be helpful for your quest: Mr. XXX: Your e-mail has been forwarded to me for response. Over the past 13 years or so, I have handled citizen complaints to EPA on "rotten egg" smell from vehicles. In recent months, we have received a significant increase in complaints about this problem in late model vehicles (primarily 2003) produced by certain manufacturers. One of them is Toyota. In fact, yours is the second complaint I have received on a 2003 Toyota today. Most manufacturers are not experiencing a problem with "rotten egg" smell. This problem occurs predominantly in vehicles with very efficient catalysts running on gasoline with relatively high sulfur levels, which is sold throughout most of the U.S except California. It is likely that only a small fraction of Toyota vehicles are experiencing the problem. The manufacturing of vehicles and catalysts always has production tolerances. Only certain vehicles probably at the tail end of the ranges for whatever catalyst parameters and air:fuel ratio factors favor hydrogen sulfide formation are having this problem. The odor is often strongest in new vehicles with low mileage, and usually diminishes as the catalyst ages. As you have already surmised based on your own research, manufacturers who are not experiencing the problem add nickel to their catalyst formulation. We have been told by several manufacturers that there are concerns in some European countries about handling nickel in the catalyst manufacturing process because some compounds containing nickel have adverse health effects. EPA is very concerned about this problem. We are in the process of meeting with all the major manufacturers, and are working with the ones experiencing the problem to obtain a commitment from them to correct it. Technical health effects information on hydrogen sulfide can be found on the internet, on EPA's Integrated Risk Information System (IRIS). Here is a link to this information: http://www.epa.gov/iris/subst/0061.htm I hope you find this information helpful. Please call me or e-mail me if I can be of additional assistance. Rich Cook Environmental Scientist U.S. EPA Office of Transportation and Air Quality 2000 Traverwood Drive Ann Arbor, MI 48105

I dont see how seafoam could help. But it may not hurt either. It looks like your emission components are working. I also get middling mpg in 00 legacy and "heavy" exhaust smell on cold engine. The only irregularity I found was excessive fuel pressure. Waiting for the part to be delivered. It that is the issue in my car (i hope), maybe there are more subs with defective fuel pressure regulators.

Well you should be angry with the dealer puting a bandaid solution and not diagnosing and fixing the problem. The sad part is that these days, in order to fix a car right, you have to fix it yourself! Peole working in dealerships I frequent are total idiots.

Like it was explained above, it could be a lot of things, need to test O2 sensors, cat, or even exhausts for leaks, if you want to do it yourself, get yourself a factory manual. Also, this should be covered by federal emission waranty, check if you are still covered. You can also reset the code and hope it wont come back.

why don't you diagnose first before repairing.

Sell it and buy lamborghini...

Yes, TPS had to be replaced ($300 outch!). Go ahead and test yours with a simple resistance meter, it should behave like your typical potentiometer. If it's good, then who knows, need to do extended diagnostics, hope you have a factory manual.

Is the engine light and/or AT temp light on or blinking? I had these same symptoms with TPS failure when TCU "assumed" that throtle was wide open all the time. However, both ECU and TCU reported codes for TPS problems.

Well I had it in my 03 corolla; it was a common problem in those 03-04 toyotas while brand new and Toyota kept saying it was normal. I and other owners lobbied the EPA hard and toyota had to come up with TSB offering a replacement of cat and reprogram of ECU. To answer you chemistry questions, sulfur compounds in gas (unregulated in USA outside CA before 2004) are burned to SO2. This is “normal” (but contributes to acid rain, asthma, and other good things). In lean conditions and high cat temps, it can be oxidized catalytically to SO3 which can actually deposit in and poison the cat. However, rich conditions will allow for reducing SO3 to H2S producing the bouts of smell you keep enjoying (“self cleaning”). In short, the problem is multifactorial: High sulfur in gas. Frequent lean and especially rich conditions. Some cats are more effective in catalyzing these sulfur reactions, I understand nickel-free cats used in some parts of Europe and/or in some brands (Toyota) are the worst. So, you basically need to stop using the offending brand of gas with high sulfur check for proper functioning of the emission system (O2 sensors, ECU, cat, ect.). However, subarus are notorious for running rich a lot by design. Maybe replace cat as a last resort. I am surprised you have these problem since beginning in 2004 lower surfur gas was phased in entire USA under federal legislation. Are you using some kind of cheapo, bootleg gas imported from China? Keep us posted.

I will be changing from 10W30 dino to 5W40 Rotella oil in a few weeks. I will make measurements before and after with a sound level meter. I will try making recordings, too, just for fun. I plan to run 15W40 Delo next summer. It is the best engine oil you can get for under $2/qt, it is not just diesel oil, it has API SL certification.

You can get the codes without the tool. Google for subaru TCU secret handshake. NASIOC forum has the details.

Many people observed worse noise in subaru with mobil 1 5W30 or 10W30. You may want to try mobil 1 5W40.

Thanks!

I replace my fuel filter every 30000 miles as recommended by subary. Did yours clog before 30000 miles? Thanks

As others explained, it is somewhat unusual for subaru, especially fairly new, but apparently within the subaru "tolerance range." Who knows, maybe the the rings did not set in when you switched to synthetic at 2000 miles. Mobil 1 can increase consumption in some cases. Change oil types and brands and experiment a lot. Try dino 10W30 or even 10W40 and see what happens. Try "high milage" oils. Try AutoRx. Make sure there is no obvious external leak. Good luck.

Another thing you might want to know. When I did unrelated searches on USMB I came across a post with this link: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/ Quite extensive library of manuals.