
friendly_jacek
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Everything posted by friendly_jacek
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Its all semantics. If you read these above definitions, they are not entirely correct either. The following part from the above 4WD "definition" is exactly what Subaru calls AWD in its AT cars: "Some performance cars have full-time variable four-wheel drive and use a computer-controlled transfer case to route power between the wheels."
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Leaky injector should be easy to diagnose by: 1. significant fuel in oil, 4-5% or more. 2. fuel pressure disappearing after shutting down. 3. car hard to start when hot engine (flooded). Have you looked into the the gas evaporation system? Can you pinpoint where the smell is coming from by the lighter test (just kidding!). I vagely remember that some recent batches of subarus had engine compartment gas leaks from rubber lines loosing seal when very cold. There was a TBS but not a recall. Is your problem temp dependent?
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This tatally makes sense as someone showed experimental proof that air left behind in subaru engine leads first to overheat, second to warped head and third to headgasket leak. Many of the HG problems could just be neglected air in coolant problems. The good news is that the newer subarus are easier to burp.
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To add to the discussion, several weeks ago I called BFG and was told that the traction T/A tire is LRR rated. I guess I believe that for 2 reasons: the tread is silica based and it is OEM tire on one of the korean SUVs (forgot which). As you all know, OEM tires are usually LRR to help with CAFE and this is why most OEM tires suck.
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I noticed that unburned gas smell in my legacy too on first starts in AM. It is coming from exhaust and not from fuel system. That is why I believe the car runs too rich. Yet, everything checks OK. I belive that the fueling in 2000-2003 subarus is out of whack. Whether the mixture is set too rich, the fuel pressure too high, or A/F ratio sensors lie I have no idea. Notice that the MPG in newer Subarus is better IIRC.
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Only the front A/F ratio sensor, even though the OBD2 software I use indicated that the sensor worked fine. I didn't touch the rear one since again, no indication of malfunction and the rear one just makes sure the cat is working and doesn't change fueling, as far as I understand. You might find it interesting that I replaced fuel pressure regulator because the fuel pressure was ~10PSI above norm. The kick is that with a brand new one is it still several PSI above specs (tested with and without vaccum line). I'm not sure how to experiment with fuel pressure short of getting variable pressure regulator.
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You pressures are indeed out of whack but doubt if it has any bearing on the MPG issue. Currently I keep pressure in my legacy at 40/40 and have about the same MPG more or less. Interestings, tire pressure is by far most common advice given for MPG problem but is least likely to affect the MPG, at least in my experience. Is someone doubled MPG by doubling PSI, please let me know! BTW, i invested a lot of time and money in troubleshooting my poor MPG (18/24 city/hwy) to conclude that some cars are good and some are bad concerning MPG. Also, some people have lead food, but that is a secondary issue. The highly touted saving by increasing PSI or going to synth (aka low viscosity) oils give marginal results only, as I tried both with no results. One more thing: some people swear by the FWD fuse, but it is bogus, too. Also, forget ECU resets, grounding mods and similar nonsense. Been there.
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No, it's not boxer thing, H6 has a chain. The manufacturers went to belts sometime in 70-80's due to less stretch in belts vs chains. Supposedly queiter too, but a minor thing. The move back to chains in the 90-00's is to prolong service intervals and increase reliability. Subaru went back to chain in H6 for mere space savings.