pappy52

Thanks! Done many tests through the years, but just didn't know 'bout the newer stuff as I am an EA82 kinda guy. I am going to pick up a '93 Impreza (Free) to day and probably have to test it also. Jon

1996 Outback with 2.2. what is the method of doing a compression test on this. I am familiar with the normal single coil ignition, but how do I disable spark on the coil pack? Are there any other things to do for the test? Injectors were alluded to in one post. I have done a couple of searches, but nothing explains what and how. Thanks, Jon

I used everything off the "old" engine. Original manifold, throttle body, MAF, etc. Just placed the "new" block under the old everything else. Which scenario is correct? Fast down or slow down?Jon

Repowered my '88 SPFI wagon with '92 version of the same tiny horses. (I know, Big Whoop). I bought this car new, and now has 245,000 on it. I don't know if I was just used to it, but the "old" engine would Idle down right away when stopping, while the "new" (125,000) engine takes takes about 8 seconds to do it in stages. Which ever way is right, how do I fix it? I have checked vacuum lines, timing, TPS adjustment, linkage. Thanks, Jon P.S. It runs and drives great. Just the idle problem. Since I have had the car since new, maybe I just deteriorated along with it, and don't remember what it was like new.

From wherest did the big brown van cometh?

What I gathered from the board when I had this problem was--The pump (wire) will only run when the key is in "START" position, or when the engine is running. (Gets signal for pump relay off of disty). Tip from another member to test pump for juice, since you have to be in "start" position, is to wire a horn up to pump connector. Then if you are getting power on wire, horn will sound! Worked for me Jon

Just put a '92 ea82 in my '88. Timed it ok, but the idle wouldn't come down, and ran yucky. Spent time rechecking everything, and finally noticed the throttle was being held open a little since I reattached the bracket. Retimed for the 4th time, and ta-da! Saw someplace on the board that someone was haveing a high idle prob. This may be the cause. Sometimes it is the simple things. DOH! Jon

EA82 SPFI-was putting that oil pump back on and heard a "tink". A small steel ball was setting on the rotor. The block is setting with the oil pump up. Question #1- where the fratzit did it come from? Question #2- where ever it came from, is there only one? Hopefully so, otherwise it went down into the blackness of the inside. the pressure relif vale is not dissassembleed, but the sender unit is out. I have handled this pump many times with the sender out, and never had anything come out. Any answer? Thanks, Jon

Great idea! I got the relay out, no problem. I am going to my doner (also a 92)car and get the one out of it. I am also going to cut the pump connector from it for future test us. While I am there and have it apart, is the ecu box (doner 92) the same or interchangable into an 88? Lately I am the local Subaru guru. (Lonely up here) My 88, Scooter, is my daily driver. Bought new, now 245000 mi. Also have '96 Outback. Previously had '79 GLF, and '84 Hatch. Love 'em all. Thanks, Jon

OK finally got myself organized, so this will be long. the car I am working on is a 92. I have an 88. When I go to the "start" position on the 88 I get heavy clicking and growl from pump. On the 92 at "start" I get no growl and light clicking that now I see corresponds with the tach needle bouncing off it's max stop. I haven't been able to get my boat hook and coat hangers configured properly to turn key to start while at pump. (Ran out of duct tape). I think it comes down to bad relay, huh? Appreciate all the help. Jon

No noise. I tried it with a "known good" pump and still no noise. Question- am I correct in saying that the fuel pump should run all the time, with the excess fuel returning to the tank by return, as in a diesel? If so, I should be able to check the relay at the LW wire on the 5-wire test connector-right? thanks, Jon

I was checking a friends 1992 EA82 SPFI for water loss problem. After running for 1/2 hour I shut it off. Went to restart and it wouldn't. I saw the gas gauge read empty. I put in 2 gallons and tried again. No go. I primed the TB and it fired, then died. Tried several times, same thing. Question is, if the tank was totally dry, do I need more gas to make sure the intake is covered, or will this pump "suck air" and pull the fuel up. Seems the relay is clicking as it should. ides? Answers? Thanks, Jon

The long intake manifold boltheads broke off inside the manifold. I am unable to remove it, and am replacing the engine. Looks like I need a manifold. Thanks, Jon

I have an 87 ea82 5-spd with a frozen engine. I can purchase a smashed 91 Loyale with good auto engine for $150. Is this just an engine to engine swap, or are ther other problems? I want to keep the d/r 5-sp. Thanks!

After spontaneous(sp) mosquito abatement (fogging the neighborhood), I replaced my head gaskets on Scooter, an 88 GL-10 EA82 SPFI 231K mi. After reassembly, with new camseals, etc, it was still a smoker. I took it apart again and found a hole in the exhaust port "Y". I have a carb engine that seems to have an ok head. Should I use my "rebuilt" cambox and cam, or keep the carb parts all together? Also, how the dingles do you get that pipe on the bottom of the carb head off? I think I will have to pull the carb engine as the cambox bolt behind the pipe has been rounded off. Thanks anyone, or everyone. I have gotten alot of good info on this board.