theotherskip

i got in a small fender bender back in sept. turns out, my bumper had been repainted. while no damage was done to the plastic, it has started paint peeling from over the whole bumper. i went to 2 body shops for estimates. both said that they could work with the old bumper, strip it and repaint it. it would take about 3 days and cost around $450. getting a new aftermarket pushed it to over $600. they would guarantee that the new paint would not peel, but i decided against it as $450 is more than i really want to put in the car, and less than my deductible...

it is pretty straight forward for the dealer to diagnose because they have seen many of them. you should ask if they checked for combustion gasses in the cooling system or did a compression test. assuming they purged the system properly, it most likely is a failed head gasket. i wrote a site about changing the head gasket that has a lot of background info. you can view it here . good luck

i think subaru is trying to ignore any of the problems with the dohc. i think if they were to extend the warranty to this, they would be out a lot more money, as a lot of engines got cooked and heads warped from the internal leak. i think they did this to try and save face with as little involvement as possible - the sohc was only an external leak, so people usually found it when it was leaking coolant on their driveways, etc, and it got repaired before it became a larger problem... you had to know what to look for to find the internal leak... i plan to write again with all the names i have collected and see if they are any more receptive...

do you have a pop-up blocker? sometimes they can block pop-up info/login boxes or block scripts which the site may need. otherwise, email them on monday for more help...

my 97 has a hydraulic clutch. the hill holder was an option, but i am kinda glad it doesn't have it - one less thing to break...

first posted it to the wrong thread. from tsb #somethingsomething-something. if anyone needs it, i can look it up...

whoops. posted to the wrong thread. all moved now...

it is not necessary, but buys you a lot of extra space. i would guess that subaru tech do not remove it, as they are very familiary with how to work around it quickly.

people often associate trouble after service with the service that was just performed. it sounds like you are having different problems. assuming they didn't change the water pump, they probably didn't mess with the cooling system at all. the oil leak is a common problem on this engine, as are head gasket failures. if you see reoccuring overheating, have it checked. i wrote a site about the head gasket failures. hopefully the new thermostat will fix yours. you can view it here .

subaru recommends loctite ultra-gray for resealing the oil pump. an alternative method to immobilize the crank is to put the car in 5th (if it is manual), have someone step hard on the brakes, and break it free.

when i did my head gasket, i ordered from 1stsubaruparts.com. nothing but good things to say about them. i've used them a few times since. all of the parts for the head gasket and clutch came to around $700, and it would have cost well over $1000 ath the local dealer. 3 day shipping for the 25lbs worth of stuff only cost $15. i had good service from some of the other online dealers, but 1st had best price and really good service...

mine turned easily too. did you make note of how the cam caps came off and then reinstall them in the same place like 99obw said? since the parts are line bored to match the cams, the parts are not interchangeable...

dim bulbs means that you are not getting full voltage (12V) across the bulb. in order to test this, you must check the voltage across the bulb with the lamp on. if you just probe the connector (not connected to the bulb), you will get 12V. you can try measuring the resistance between the 12V supply to the bulb and the battery positive terminal (should be very low - less than 1 ohm). be sure that the ignition is on and the headlights are on so the relay will be closed. then check the resistance between the negative connection to the bulb and the battery negative terminal (should also be very low). i would most likely suspect a headlight relay with dirty contacts or a bad ground. it probably isn't the bulbs...

i think you have to replace it as a whole unit. i don't think you can replace (or even order) just the cover. disassemble the center console for a better idea...

it unscrews. rightie tightie, lefty loosie

if it has the 2.5, it doesn't have a distributor. i think the same goes for the 97 2.2. just follow the spark plug wires. if you see something that looks like a transformer on the top of the intake, then it is electronic. nothing to replace. as for plugs, the general recommendation for normal everyday driving tends to be the oem ngk's.

i agree with 99obw. it does depend on your outlook. if you intend to squeeze every last drop of life from the engine, you are best off replacing thing rather than nursing them along. he may be more used to just band-aiding cars along. but i don't agree with the mechanic's opinion with most of the points that 99obw took exception to.

i remove the rubber insert from the spark plug socket so that i can get the socket off easily from the spark plug when reinstalling it. when removing the spark plug, i first pull the boot, then insert the spark plug socket, then a 3" extension, then a u joint, then a long extension and rachet. once the plug is loose, get to the plug in the reverse order. it can be done without raising the engine. just take your time. remember antiseize and also dielectric grease to make getting the wires off easier next time.

i agree that it is nice to extend the warranty for those with the phase II engines, but what about all the failures on the phase I engines? those head gaskets failed and would leak internally, rather than externally, with the potential to cause many more problems. this stop leak just seems like an effort by subaru to nurse these cars along until they are out of warranty...

i've had good luck with 1stsubaruparts.com. good service, great prices. and the diffs are pretty easy to change the fluid. if you have the 2.5 motor, the timing belt interval isn't until 105k, but it is 60k if you have the 2.2.

probably both your rear main seal and tranny input seal are leaking. have both replaced at the same time, but it will probably be expensive, as the engine or tranny must be removed for access.

how many miles? either the shift linkages could be out of adjustment (was there an accident)? or the shift fork could be worn, often caused by keeping your hand on the gear shift lever while in gear. the repair requires removing the transmission and disassembling parts. i've never done it, but somebody here probably has...

i forgot she has a phase 2. i assume it is the same. maybe that is why they don't include certain gaskets that are not common to both engines...

oil seals seal any time something rotating has to exit the block - where the cams leave the head, etc. if you are having the work done, the mechanic will probably order the specific parts you need. the overhaul gasket set has more parts than you would need for what you are probably going to get done. but here is the list of what is included. when you get all of the parts, none are labeled, and it is kind of a guessing game as to what is for what. i had some left over when i was done... and it doesn't include the valve cover gaskets or spark plug hole gaskets (though it includes the valve cover bolt seals, go figure...) i wrote a site about changing the head gasket and changing the clutch. it may give you a better idea of the work involved, though a mechanic would probably not pull the engine... you can view it here . i don't think i would have it done unless it is giving you warning signs...

i have a 97 that uses shims - i believe that shims were only used on the 97?? then they switched to a screw?