Rallywagon

Air shocks can be used to stiffen up your Brat's rear when loaded, but it will ride really rough when they are pumped up. http://www.shockshopusa.com/adjustable-air-shocks.html You will have to investigate to find a set to fit. I do not use them.

My bro-in-law tells me the '88 is a NON-turbo GL-10 with dual range...he is picking it up for $500. Thanks for the estimates.

Could someone give me the curb weights for.... 1. '84 GL Wagon 4WD Dual Range 2. '88 GL-10 Wagon 4WD Dual Range? Thanks!

Carl, It's probably gonna be me and the boys...wife has a baby shower to host. I was thinking about towards Sylva. This link MAY show you the area where 3 trails start at the end of Caney Fork Rd. Rough Butt is one trail that is great, but it might be too much for the roos. It is pretty tough terrrain, so I will have to take it easy having my sons with me. But I hope you and maybe others can ride over there after lunch on Sept. 25. I've got to get some things fixed on my Roo before then! http://mapserver.maptech.com/homepage/index.cfm?lat=35.32916&lon=-83.0334292&scale=24000&zoom=50&type=1&height=498&width=498&icon=0&searchscope=dom&CFID=2279979&CFTOKEN=87269559&scriptfile=http://mapserver.maptech.com/homepage/index.cfm&bpid=MAP0060030900%2C1%2C1%2C0&latlontype=DMS Later, Scott

I hope to make it with the family. Lots of gravel roads in the immediate area, and some serious off roading just 55 minutes away. You may want to make reservations at Davidson River Campground, because it can be pretty popular this close to leaf season. Scott

Thanks for keeping us posted...I am very interested in your project. But I am also probably a long way from actually spending time and money to try it myself. Scott

Thanks for the info. I was hoping that someone had found a joint from a more powerful car that could be "hybridized" onto an EA-81 axle. Thanks again. Scott

Had a great time off roading with CarlJWNC a couple of weekends ago, but my front CV joints took a beating (both are clicking in a straight line!) Has anyone investigated/found a stronger outer joint/stub axle that might fit our cars? Mine are lifetime guarantee, but they seem to only survive a few tough miles in 4-Low....there has got to be a stronger replacement out there. After all, late model Toyota trucks, Chevy's, Land Rovers...they all use CV joints with lots of wheel travel. Any ideas are appreciated.

I love the idea. I vote again for coverage of the older/indestructible models and their off-road adventures. Hope y'all publish this! Thanks.

Within an hour's drive of Asheville?...interested in off roading Subes? Carl, I sent you a PM and an e-mail. Scott

Awesome work on the intake....I would love to do that and maybe use some Mikunis! What did you use to cut the intake up/away from the original water passage? If you free up the exhaust, that thing should really rev....can't wait to hear about your success.

That carb setup and entire engine looks sweet! You've got twice the intake capacity...those look like they are the same size as a standard Hitachi. I'd love a picture of the intake system underneath if you could try to take some shots at an angle. Thanks.

Thanks for the comments....I'd forgotten about the 3.7:1 differentials. What about the strength of the locking differentil for offroading....do y'all think it would hold up? Thanks, again.

I have had a blast for a few years offroading with my '84, but I want to take something to the next level...lift kit, maybe gearing, more power. My '84 and seemingly every '84 on the east coast is severely rusted. I can't decide....should I just let my car go, and buy a better "starter" car for my project OR start grinding and welding to resurrect my '84. (BTW, I need 4 doors for the family, so a hatch is out.) What are your opinions on this '86 turbo as a potential off road project?... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15034&page=1&pp=10 Ben's asking price of $700 is tempting, but I only have experience with the EA81's so far. Thanks for any input/ideas/cautions.

Converting Hubs to 4x100mm... ....lost the original detailed write up when I upgraded my e-mail software. Here's the basics I remember: 1. Make all modifications to your Subaru hubs at your own risk. 2. I was ultra conservative...had a welder friend braze the backs of the old studs to the hub/drum. 3. Grind the old studs off flush with the wheel mating surface of the hub/drum. 4. Buy studs for a '95 Honda Civic, M12x1.5, I believe. And they have a smaller shoulder for press fit than the OEM Subaru studs. So they require a smaller hole in the hub/drum. 5. At a machine shop...A. on a lathe, turn down the centers/locating bosses to 54mm. The center bore of OEM Toyota and Mazda wheels (4x100) are 54 mm. Honda is 56mm so that wheel fits, but you would mount "lug-centric." B. On a mill, precisely locate the holes for the new studs on a 100 mm circle, offset from the old studs by 90 degrees. Bore the new stud holes to the proper diameter to allow a press fit. C. Still on a mill....on the insides of the hubs/drums use an end mill a little larger in diameter than the head of the new studs to make a flat for the studs to shoulder up against. Do not remove any more material depth than necessary to make the flat spots. Note: The front hubs are very hard steel. 6. Press the new studs into the hub/drum. We had to use a hydraulic press to push them into the front hubs because the steel was too hard for the stud splines to cut. SO I hope to never have to try to field replace one of them. 7. As mentioned in a previous post, the rear drum material is very soft and this is apparent when installing the new studs. Do not use too much pressure when installing them. Inspect the material after installation and use good judgment. There is a lot of metal thickness where the studs are located. 8. Get a good coat of primer at least on the machined surfaces, then re-install the hubs/drums as removed. 9. Purchase rims from a local yard or www.tires.com after researching what width and offset you would like. I use '95 Protege' 14x5.5 inch. They have a large positive offset so the tires are completely under the fender and they were cheap. MAKE SURE THAT THE RIMS ARE NOT WARPED BEFORE SPENDING A LOT OF TIME CLEANING AND PAINTING THEM. 10. Get tapered seat lug nuts for the M12x1.5 studs. The taper should be matched to the OEM rim spec. THE RIMS AND LUG NUTS MUST BE "LUG-CENTRIC" DESIGN, MEANING THAT THE WHEEL IS CENTERED BY THE LUG NUTS' TAPER. This is because the front hub will probably not have enough metal on the hub to center the wheel with its bore, "hub-centric." 11. I run 205/75R14 Cooper Courser SST tires with no lift kit and minimal scrubbing when locked out in a turn. www.1010tires.com has a large selection of 14 inch mud tires. 12. When everything is installed test drive with caution, and after some run time, inspect the hubs/drums where the new studs are in place for cracking or other problems. I am sure that I am forgetting some important details because it's been a couple years. Please post any questions. Hope this is helpful.

Soobme, You've got personal e-mail. Scott

Get you some info. later tonight probably....remember I am on the East Coast. Later.

These are great....I suspect that you should be getting a lot of business from members of the USMB. Please put together a price list. I have an '84 wagon, so I hope to see more pics of your bumper on one. Have you done any shipping to the east coast? Keep up the good work! It's about time we had some more accessory makers that weren't located Down Under.

The wheels are held in place AND CENTERED solely by the lugs. IF tapered lugs and lug-centric rims with the same taper angle seats are used the center bore of the rim does not even have to touch the wheel center. Mine currently are centered by the lugs and ride very smoothly. But you can see the importance of drilling the new stud holes accurately. Hope that is clear. Good luck and be safe.

...located in Western NC, so I could tag team Subaru projects with you! Y'all come!

....lost the original detailed write up when I upgraded my e-mail software. Here's the basics I remember: 1. Make all modifications to your Subaru hubs at your own risk. 2. I was ultra conservative...had a welder friend braze the backs of the old studs to the hub/drum. 3. Grind the old studs off flush with the wheel mating surface of the hub/drum. 4. Buy studs for a '95 Honda Civic, M12x1.5, I believe. And they have a smaller shoulder for press fit than the OEM Subrau studs. So they require a smaller hole in the hub/drum. 5. At a machine shop...A. on a lathe, turn down the centers/locating bosses to 54mm. The center bore of OEM Toyota and Mazda wheels (4x100) are 54 mm. Honda is 56mm so that wheel fits, but you would mount "lug-centric." B. On a mill, precisely locate the holes for the new studs on a 100 mm circle, offset from the old studs by 90 degrees. Bore the new stud holes to the proper diameter to allow a press fit. C. Still on a mill....on the insides of the hubs/drums use an end mill a little larger in diameter than the head of the new studs to make a flat for the studs to shoulder up against. Do not remove any more material depth than necessary to make the flat spots. Note: The front hubs are very hard steel. 6. Press the new studs into the hub/drum. We had to use a hydraulic press to push them into the front hubs because the steel was too hard for the stud splines to cut. SO I hope to never have to try to field replace one of them. 7. As mentioned in a previous post, the rear drum material is very soft and this is apparent when installing the new studs. Do not use too much pressure when installing them. Inspect the material after installation and use good judgement. There is a lot of metal thickness where the studs are located. 8. Get a good coat of primer at least on the machined surfaces, then re-install the hubs/drums as removed. 9. Purchase rims from a local yard or http://www.tires.com after researching what width and offset you would like. I use '95 Protege' 14x5.5 inch. They have a large positive offset so the tires are completely under the fender and they were cheap. MAKE SURE THAT THE RIMS ARE NOT WARPED BEFORE SPENDING A LOT OF TIME CLEANING AND PAINTING THEM. 10. Get taperered lug nuts for the M12x1.5 studs. The taper should be matched to the OEM rim spec. THE RIMS AND LUG NUTS MUST BE "LUG-CENTRIC" DESIGN, MEANING THAT THE WHEEL IS CENTERED BY THE LUG NUTS' TAPER. This is because the front hub will probably not have enough metal on the hub to center the wheel with its bore, "hub-centric." 11. I run 205/75R14 Cooper MT tires with no lift kit and minimal scrubbing when locked out in a turn. http://www.1010tires.com has a large selection of 14 inch mud tires. 12. When everything is installed test drive with caution, and after some run time, inspect the hubs/drums where the new studs are in place for cracking or other problems. I am sure that I am forgetting some important details because it's been a couple years. Please post any questions. Hope this is helpful.

I plan to post tonight the write up on my lug conversion. Never sat in front of the PC this weekend...spent time barnstorming on gravel roads with my little boys in the wagon, though. Sorry for the delay.:cornfuzz:

Subarube, The conversion is not very difficult if you have connections at a machine shop. I have a detailed write up on my home PC that I can e-mail to you. I currently am running 15 x 5.5 from a '95 Mazda Protege' with 205/75R14 Courser OTD's. These rims were the cheapest 4x100's at my local yards. They have a large offset like the stock Subaru rims. There is plenty of room for the new studs (I used '95 Civic studs) in the front hubs and rear drums and plenty of metal for strength. Let me know if you are interested in knowing more.

If you are trying to find more options for 14" off-road tires, this website allows you to search by diameter and category (just leave Treadwidth and Profile unspecified). And it brings up a lot of options in the Light Truck category, from 195/75 to 27x8.5. http://www.1010tires.com Their prices may not be the best, but it helps you find what's out there in the 14" rim size.

I thought that the EA-81T had dual port heads.....so it is either major mods on my own or aircraft product. Thanks again.