sario

My OEM one cracked between the plastic tank and the metal. I got a all metal, CFS brand, one from radiator barn. It's only been in 9 months, but it hasn't exploded yet.

Thanks. That's a great deal for a rebuilt OEM alternator.

Just for future reference, do you have that part number?

Awesome, thanks! I may be able to find a new 6203 laying around here somewhere; if not I think i'll just take your suggestion and grease it.

Does anyone know what alternator bearing a 97 legacy uses? If it matters, the alternator was replaced during a recall about 12 years ago. I know there’s a good chance the rectifier bridge will fail before the bearing does, but i figured i might as well do it since i replaced the idler bearing and PS bearing. Thanks

Please take pictures when it's done. that would be great for wet gear and dogs!

If anyone in the local area is willing to let me rebuild their pump I'll get some better pictures. I'll even use the press at work to do a more "professional job." It would be $30 if you let me use your pump, $68 if i have to get one from a local yard. please? I live near eugene oregon.

It's pretty easy. It took about three hours from the time i started taking the pump out to the time i put it in. But that's only because I had to drive to the dealer to get the tank O-ring and washer, they are not included in the repair kit. Now that I've done it once, i could do the whole thing in under an hour. My total cost was total cost was $34.81. you could save $4 if you ordered the bearing from rock auto when order the gasket set though. Gasket kit from rock auto $ 19.21 Bearing from Napa $12.31 O-ring and washer $3.29

This is a work in progress. I still need to find the torque specs for the bolts, and a couple part numbers. PARTS LIST Gates power steering repair kit Gates 348414 Skf bearing 6203-2RSJ (from napa) tank o-ring (subaru part number ????) washer gasket (subaru part number 34443AA010) 2 tasty beers Remove the pulley and snap ring. Remove bolt inside of the tank, you will need a ratchet extension. Replace sealing washer. Remove the six bolts on back of pump and pull off tank. On the bottum of the tank you will see the first o-ring you need to replace. With the back of the pump facing up, CAREFULLY remove the rear pump cover. Here is the main gasket that needs to be replaced. Now Carefully pull out the vanes raceway ect. You will now see two o-rings that will need replaced. drive out shaft using vice, hammer, and a piece of wood. be careful, you can easily distort the pump hosing. now drive out the old bearing using the same method. drive on new bearing. Pull out old shaft seal and drive new with seal driver or socket. here you will find the last o-ring hiding. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.

****EDIT******OK never mind. I screwed this one up. Some how when i put the bango bolt into a bag to keep it "clean" i got a piece of dowel in it. I think it was the same bag i used to hold dowel pieces for a bird feeder i made my wife. Man i feel dumb now I was going to rebuild my power steering pump (slight leak), but then i realized i'd been give the wrong gasket set, so i put it back on. basically i took it out of the car and put it straight back in. Now it doesn't work, and doesn't even make a sound when you bring it right up to the bump stops. I'm guessing dirt might have gotten in the system when i had it off.

****EDIT******OK never mind. I screwed this one up. Some how when i put the bango bolt into a bag to keep it "clean" i got a piece of dowel in it. I think it was the same bag i used to hold dowel pieces for a bird feeder i made my wife. Man i feel dumb now Does anyone have any tricks to bleeding the power steering? it's taking forever to do on my 97. I've gone lock to lock almost 60 times now, and the steering is still really stiff.

Not to be contradictorily or anything Fairtax4me, i appreciate the input but after a little bit of research i found out some different information, and i'm going to post in case any searches the threads for info.. It turns out that ignition plugs are in series, the "path of least resistance" doesn't apply. Each spark plug is connected to each end of the same coil, so the current from coil actually has to travel through both ignition wires.

Even though it tested fine, the coil pack proved to be the problem. I ended up having to use a non OEM(more expensive) one because http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ mailed me the wrong part, but hey stuff happens. Thanks for all the help.

Thanks Nipper, I'll give that try too. But working on scubaru now has to wait until sunday. The wife talked me into a last minutes scuba trip, I didn't argue too much!

You're right, i don't like the sound of that.... and I didn't pull the plug, I knew i should have, but i was trying to be quick since i have to work early tomorrow. I'll pull it tomorrow evening or Friday morning. The Valves were actually adjusted 50k ago, maybe i'll get lucky.

I tried the turning in tight circles, no problem. I replaced the wires as Gary suggested, and found a lot of corrosion where 1&3 connect to the coil. In-fact there looks to be a little bit of damage to the coil pack from arcing. Unfortunately the wires didn't solve the problem, in fact it's worse. I'm now running really rough all the time and throwing a flashing CEL(#3 cyl misfire). I guess i need to try a new coil pack now. Thanks for your help so far John and Gary

Not that i have noticed. But I'll give it a try this afternoon.

oh and i forgot there are no check engine lights or transmission lights.

The plugs were changed about 6,000 miles ago, and the wires about 35,000. NGK Platnium, and OEM wires The problem hasn't happened in park or neutral, so i didn't think it was the wires, but I'll order a set today and give that a try.

I'm having a little bit of trouble with the old subie again, please help! Intermittently when it's moving the whole car will jerk a little bit. It's almost like it went out of gear for a split second and then right back in... but it does the same jerk while not moving and in gear. Sometimes it will do it servele times in a row. 1997 Legacy Outback 237,000 miles Automatic original engine and transmission all fluids are full last transmission fluid change 15,000 miles ago.

We'll the problem came back, worse than before. So i put the FWD fuse in, and it seemed to disappear. I guessed that nippers test was suggesting the \ drive line so i gave it another look. After pulling the exhaust off i found a broken transmission mount. The problem is found and fixed now Thanks for everyone’s help!

I'll put that on my list to try. thanks

Well the problem went from all-the-time to intermittent. :-\ That’s why I haven’t been bumming for help. I'm going to try replacing the other front axle. It's an OEM remanufactured that's been in there for about 30,000 miles. I really doubt it's the problem, but I’m not sure what else it could be. If the problem goes back to being consistent I’ll try the FWD fuse.

They seem fine. But i've been thinking about taking them off to get a better look. Thanks for the ideal I'm going to have check that in a day or two. A local guy is making a front bumper to replace the one that got tore off on a bad road. I hope you all are still be available to help then. Thanks

I think that statement deserves two dancing bananas, not one.:banana: