sario

That's pretty cool.

Can anyone tell me what the pictured hose and device does? I've been trying to find thecause of a cylinder 2 misfire. I decided to start with a basic tune up since it was due, which included air filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, and PCV valve. Thats when i noticed the hose was disconnected. I'm not sure if it was off before i started, or if it might be the cause of the probelms. thanks *Edit* added better photos

After some really high quotes from salvage yards, I decided I'm just going to buy a new axle. And i Thinking i'm going to try one from a newer outback so i can get the newer style boots. I just want to confirm that a axle for 2004 outback will fit. All i have to do is knock the tone ring off right?

Does anyone know what years of axles are compatible with a 97 outback? The wrecking yards near me don't seem to have any for 96-99 legacy.

Could you point in the direction of those? I only saw one option for boots on www.subarugenuineparts.com and http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/suspension_and_axle/front_axle/illustration_2/

I'll definitely keep this in mind. Do you think that OEM subaru boots are going to be better quality than aftermarket ones?

I should have also said my car has King Springs which are probably are harder on boots, and at the very the least voids the warranty on MWE axles. Again ot trying to say anything bad about MWE, I just don't want to go that route again.

I plan on rebooting the axle in the car as a spare. Right now my time is limited, so I want to do the repair quickly. I know the linked axles have a good reputation, but I've bought one from then in the past and the boot tore in under 10,000 miles. The axle I bought had the new CV joint, so stock boots won't fit it. My personal preference is not to buy from them again.

Does anyone know where I can buy a front OEM remanufactured axle 97 legacy outback? Or know where i can find the part number? I'm pretty sure I bought one from subarupartsforyou.com last time, but thier website is a lot less intuitive than the last time I vistied it.

I ended up buying the CDI. I did have the chance to use an electronic snap on side by side with my CDI. The snap on is probably a little more accurate because you can see when your getting close. That being said I'm happy with my CDI split beam.

It is for home use. I'm not looking for a professional torque wrench, but I don't mind spending the money if it gets me a more reliable tool. I hate rebuying tools because i cheaped out the first time. I mostly use torque wrenches at home for car, and the occasional bicycle maintenance/repairs.

Thanks for that well thought out reply. It's really helpful. I think you've talked me out of the digital one. I Just wish I knew for sure I wouldn't ever need to tourque any reverse threads.

Looking for some help finding a new a new torque wrench. I've done some research on google, but i still have a few questions. Do split beam or digital torque wrenches tend to stay in calibration longer? Is likely I will need to torque any bolts counterclockwise doing routine maintenance like timing belts? Right now I'm leaning towards one of these two torque wrenches. Can you calibrate either of these at the user level? CDI Torque 2503CF3 Drive Computorq 3 Electronic Torque Wrench, 1/2-Inchhttp://www.amazon.com/Torque-2503CF3-Computorq-Electronic-Wrench/dp/B000I1ZMCW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399126551&sr=8-1&keywords=2503CF3 Precision Instruments (PREC3FR250F) http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Torque-Wrench/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399127123&sr=8-1&keywords=cdi+split+beam

No,I've seen pictures though. Neat looking dam.

It's also possible I misremembered what happened, I don't think I did, but it's definitely possible. I'm an electrician in a hydroelectric power plant, I do a lot of troubleshooting on problems other people tell me about. One of things I've learned to do is verify, when possible, everything thing i'm told and redo any trouble shooting by other electricians. It's surprising how often people unintentionally lead you down the wrong road.

I replaced the Ignition switch assembly yesterday. On the old one I checked all the contracts resistance, they all seemed fine. But, while checking I did notice if i turned the key back gently from the start position it wouldn't always fully return, and I'd get a poor connection. I think the switch assembly was the problem, and I'll post back later if it turns out different. For reference Intermotor brand replacement switch I use is made by the same manufacture as the OEM one. It was about $50 cheaper as well. Thanks for everyones help.

Where do you live? Someone might be able to suggest a good mechanic your area.

Great thread!

The SMJ connector sounds promising. I was starting to suspect the Ignition switch, but that connector sounds more likely. I already gave the battery post, battery terminals, and grounds a thorough cleaning.

Thanks for the tip. I took a look, and It doesn't look like thats the problem in this case.

Do alternators usually fail intermittently like this? I'm not saying that this isn't the problem. I just never taken the chance to look at a wiring diagram for a car before. I thought the battery was in parallel with the alternator, and if that's the case, wouldn't the battery have to drain down before the accessories stopped working?

Twice now my 97 legacy outback has had a problem where the wipers, dash lights, and radio stop working or start going really slow. Although car runs fine, and the head lights still work. As soon as I turned the car off and on again everything started working both times. So far I've had the alternator tested, the battery checked, tested and cleaned any grounds i could find. Does anyone an electrical schematic of the exsesories they could send me, or any suggestions on what to check.

I also used a eBay starter rebuild kit, just because I couldn't find a name brand kit. I think I installed the kit 2008. No problems

While investigating this problem i found had a rear sticking brake caliper. I rebuilt the calipers and the problem seems to have gone away. Also replaced the diff fluid, maybe that was the problem. Either way i'm happy. Thanks for everyones help, and I'll report back if the problem reappears.

You should be able to get a battery big enough for moderate size winch. Whats the CCA on your battery and how old is it?