sario

Ok the fluid is changed. No luck.

ha ha maybe!

Ok i'm heading down to drop the transmission pan now. I'll try that first

227,000. I change the fluid about every 15,000 miles(drain and refill). Do you mean i should have a power flush done at mechanic shop?

If i start out in second i CAN feel it there. If i shift to second before it hits 1800 i don't think i can feel it. If you shift at it, it goes away. shifts just fine above it

About two weeks. I'll go for a drive now. I'll let you know it Ten.

Recent Maint history on the car? In the last 4,000 miles New battery Rebooted a axle then the same axle was replaced 5,000 miles ago. engine removed so oil the pan seal could be replaced. Does the car push through the shudder or does it affect performance? it pushes right through it, and there is no performance loss i can tell Any flashing lights on startup? None Does it happen at a shift-point? yes. Only at the end of first gear, right before it shifts to second. It only happens in first gear. it IS worse starting on a hill WHat happenes if you manually shift the car? I'll have to let you know that one tomorrow.

Ok. it's still there with a new axle. The shudder feels like somethings loose in the drive train. But I cant find anything, and all the bushings appear to be in good shape. HELP???

I was replacing the axle in my car yesterday. I had just pushed the hub grease seal in when my wife asked my to help her with something. I came back installed the axle WITHOUT tapping the seal into place. I didn't think about this until after i went for driving. oppps.:-\ So when i was at the dealership getting a new seal, a mechanic told me that it doesnt need tapped in, just pushed in by hand. I seem to remember having to tap these in.....anyone???????. i'd love to be wrong.

That is some good info to know. I'm sure I'll have to do that someday in the future. It would be nice to know what boot he does use.

Well that rip is really inconvenient. I know he'll send you a new one, but it sucks waiting on parts. As far as nut quality i have an OEM one and MWE one out right now. i can take a picture of it you like. But to me they both look like good nuts. I've also noticed, and worried about, the different grease color. But I've had MWE axles on for years and never had a problem. So i guess it works. And after checking around i found out molly grease DOES come in different colors. Especially Synthetic. Hope it all works out for ya

Yep i just got a 'new' axle from him last week. He sent me a new nut free of charge. All i did was write "please include axle nut" On my paypal payment. I really like MWE. Just my two cents.

Awsome. I really like your website!

Well porcupine, i think you are probably right. So i'm going to order a MWE axle and see if that solves the problem.

I crawled under the car before driving home work and the axles appear...... fine. The shudder happens right around 1900 to 2200 rpms. I think its there even when in neutral. It's definitely worse starting out on a hill.

I didn't even think about that! I did reboot one about 10,000 miles ago. I have no clue how long it was torn before i noticed it. What’s the best way to check one of those? Just wiggle it around and see if its loose?

I've had a two problems develop with in a week of each other. The first is a shudder at low speeds, right before the car shifts to second gear. Other wise it runs fine. All the vacuum lines appear to be connected. The second is the occasional ping sound when I back up in reverse, and sometimes when I put it in drive right afterward. Any help appreciated! And in case it's relevant.... 1997 Legacy Outback 2.5L Auto 226,000 miles King springs throttle body bypass. No CEL

DOn't tempt me with the Mega-squirt. I once an 69 Nova with a mega-squirt injected 502..... I mean wow that was neat!

Thanks for the info. I hope this car is like the guy told me on the phone! If it's a good motor I would probably stick with the stock one then. Could you recommend a place for motor rebuild parts? It would be neat to put a fuel injected motor in, and while the wiring doesn't intimidate me, i do a lot of control wiring for a living, the plumbing and mounting does.

There is a 1981 subaru GL for sale in my home town, $150. The exterior and interior are supposed to be in "good" shape, but it doesn't run. I'm thinking it could be a fun project car. I'm looking for any advice any one is willing to give. Thanks! How hard are parts to find for this car? Would it be hard to lift? What about motor swaps?

oh and here is website that will calculate the resistor size for you. Radio Shack would carry everything you need. But they charge a little more than a lot of electronic stores. Good luck with whatever you do. http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

If they aren't Dimming bulbs, you could pair a bright red LED with a resistor and wire it in. It would only cost about a $1-$2 per light.I did this on my dome light just because i kept leaving it on and draining my battery. Now it can be on for days without killing the battery. just a thought.

I bought my Gr2s for $250, and for the price i think they are probably the best struts for stock Soobs.

I have brand new Gr2s on my outback. They were great with the stock springs, but are a little weak for the king springs i put on Bloo a few months back.

Nice. It looks like a good use for some of extra conduit!