logang1k

right now it ain't poo. It is a stripped out silver wagon with a dead cylinder (im hoping it is just out of time), a sticky clutch cable, no front fenders, both window washers removed, the, air box resonator removed (gonna make a snorkel). I am seriously thinking about removing the hatch and doors for the mud bog. I don't mind getting muddy. I am just not sure how the newly uncarpeted wiring will take the mud. Everyone wants a ride once it's done. I tell them I'm gonna take out all of the seatbelts but mine to save weight, no oh crap handles either. J/K about the seatbelts. here is the pipe kit I bought to make the header. overkill http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/builder-kits-33/ultimate-builder-kit-111/1-75-od-x-3-00-radius-16-gauge-mild-steel-ultimate-bk-871.html what size pipe for the ej22?

Got my tubing in to build my header today. I should wait until after the lift to build the header because clearances will change, right? I am gonna use the stock header for the flanges and use 26-32" of 1-3/4 pipe then use a 2-1 Y-pipe that is 1-3/4 to 2". I plan on running it forward in front of the motor and out of the hood but it looks like it's gonna be tight. I plan on using a glasspack type muffler but space may not allow for a muffler

It's not in the car yet. I go to school in Louisville KY, 80 miles from home. So I haven't even seen it yet. Hoping it has the d/r stick with it.

Woot! I got my d/r tranny in today also. Next week is spring break. Looks like the ol' mudwagon will get some work done to it.

when I take the S/R tranny out for the D/R, what should I replace on the motor and transmission? This will be my first tranny replacement. I have read alot about it and have a manual, will it be too much for a beginner?

For next year's mud bog I hope to have an ej22 swapped in so I'll probably skip the cams. But everything else is in line to happen. D/R is on it's way, on the waiting list for a lift from you, interior is getting stripped today, tires are mounted waiting for some 6 lug hubs, exhaust tubing is ordered for the custom header, skidplate is still in the design stages

I'm thinking about only leaving the seats and dash in the interior. Getting rid of the headliner, pillar covers, radio and speakers, and all the rest of the interior panels. Maybe trying to chip up the asphault based sound deadener.

I am gonna try to make the header as close to equal length as possible while running the pipes in front of the motor. I am gonna try to find a long "quiet" muffler and run the muffler out of the hood. I dont wanna be "that guy" with the annoyingly loud car. I dont have a good welder so I'm gonna get it tacked together and take it to a friend to get finish welded. Anyone know of a good place to get pre-bent U's and J's in a 1.75 or 1.875? Also is there any emission stuff I can delete to make it lighter? This is a strictly off road vehicle that is only gonna be used in the mud so im gonna gut the interior but leave in the door panels so I dont beat myself up. I may rhino line the floor for grip after I get all muddy, or use skateboard tape. Any lightening ideas are welcome. I still need 4 seats and 4 operational doors. 4 working door windows would be nice. I also need it pretty "mud tight" I don't wanna cut the roof off or take the doors off, anything crazy like that.

where should I put the O2 sensor when I reroute the exhaust? After the 2 pipes Y together, right? How far from the exhaust port?

I have a D/R tranny on the way, and a set of 6 lug hubs. Now I need the lift and need to weld the rear end.

Right now my car has no front fenders. I took them off to cut the rust out of the wheel arches. Ended up just following the wheel arch body line with an air saw

I'm gonna have to pick up a set. My car is a 1990 loyale with disk/drums. shipping to 47520

The difference is that the rx is full time awd and the gl is 4wd correct? I have no reason to use the car in fwd so it doesn't really matter which

I'll take one! Which one would go with my 3.90 rear end? Which would better serve my off roading/ mud bogging purpose?

ej22 is on the list right after the D/R 5mt. gonna be next year for that one though

you wouldn't have a 5mt D/R that you would be willing to ship, would you? scott or bill

I'm not on a really tight budget but I don't wanna blow money on something that won't help.

I hope to run your 6" lift as soon as you can make me one. Hint hint. I can paypal you now but I read you weren't taking orders. Ship me a d/r 5 speed while you're at it.

I'm in Indiana which is close to no one.

So no need for a big lift? I pm'd you about the six inch lift. Is that too much? I'll need ground clearance over anything else but saving money and only getting a 2" lift would be awesome too. There is an aluminum plant near by and I can get all the sheet aluminum I need for the skid plate. The only problem is it is only 1/8th inch thick. But I can double it up or roll beads in it. The mud pit is my families old cow pond that never held water well. So my brother started holding mud bogs 4th of July weekend. He got killed in a motorcycle accident a year ago 9/25. So I keep it going in his memory. He never got to see my loyale but he would be proud. I am hoping to show up some of the domestic trucks there. There are a few trucks with 44s that I know I won't stand a chance after they go through. Unless the skid plate idea works and momentum carries me through the deep stuff while I ride on the skidplate.

yeah that would be nice. I just haven't found one in my area yet.

I am prepping my 1990 loyale s/w 4x4 S/R sfi 1.8l to be an offroad only mud bogger. I have 27.2" tall x 7.5" wide tractor tires mounted on 14x6 nissan 6 lug wheels and I will be buying a lift. Does a lift add any ground clearance or is it just to allow for the fitment of larger tires? I am gonna weld the rear end up. I am planing on bringing the exhaust up through the hood on the passenger side so I dont have to worry about it dragging through the mud. I am also thinking about making a full length skid plate that curves up in the front. I think this would make the underneath smooth and it would glide across the mud easier. Any flaws to this idea? Any other ideas to make it more mud worthy?

I finally went and got my car back from the shop. Here is their official write up: Test compression...#2 cylinder has low compression, blows air out of the tail pipe...Exhaust Valve problem All plugs are fouled...Has good Spark...Belt timing is good...Ignition timing is off. Clean plugs. Remove distributor and reset properly. Set timing...Misses on cylinder #2 due to low compression. My dad insisted that I put zmax in it because the commercial says it can unstick stuck valves. So that is all I have done to it so far. It runs ok but it is a little down on power obviously. Is it ok to drive it like this and see if the valve frees up?

i need a clutch cable for my 1990 subaru loyale sw non-turbo push button 4wd s/r 5mt. Is this the correct part number? 37026GA081

The shop did a compression test and the bad cylinder was down on compression. I think they assumed it was a stuck valve but they said they would have to open it up to see. It is still at the shop I told them to stop if it was the motor because I was gonna swap it. But I really don't have the money for the swap right now.