logang1k

Haha! I have a tractor flap but mine is grey.

Here is what I have. Nothing fancy, but it works. Guess I'll put the bung right after the Y. Picked up the o2 sensor. Just have to hunt down a bung.

oh and I bought 2 mandrel bent 1.5" 90 degree bends and a Y pipe with 2 1.5" inlets and a 2" outlet. Then I ran a single 2" pipe out of my hood. I am working on the picture. The exhaust is out of the car right now.

I don't weld but I have a few welders in my area that will work for me for free. I just don't have the o2 sensor. Is the loyale as picky about aftermarket sensors as the newer models? Anyone have one I could buy?

My mudwagon, a 1990 subaru loyale had one 02 sensor before the cat. My dad dropped the exhaust out of the car and pulled the single wire out of the sensor so I just left it out. Now the car is a lot weaker down low and almost dies when taking off from a stop. I did a lot of changes at once (homemade snorkel, hood exit "stack" type open header exhaust) so I don't want to go through the trouble of buying a new o2 sensor$$$ and welding a bung on my exhaust if it really doesn't matter on obd0 car. I'm thinking the open exhaust and the free flowing intake might just be too much for the ecu to handle.

I have a 1990 loyale that is strictly offroad with emphasis on mud that I had bill redrill to 6 lug. My dad gave me a set of 1999 16" alloys that I am trying to fit on my car for playing during the winter months (tractor tires aren't much fun for spinning in the snow i bet) and the hub hole is smaller on the Chevy wheel by a pretty large margin. Before I got into really looking at it I thought I would just take a die grinder with a rotary file and grind away but I don't think that'll work. It's awesome that they are free and awesome that they have good tires on them but is this even worth the trouble to have a machine shop enlarge the hole? I was thinking since it has conical lug nuts I could space the wheels out past the hub but then I get into longer wheel studs and clearance issues because the Chevy wheels already stick out further then the 14" Nissan truck wheels that are on it now.

I rounded off the Nut that holds the line in the master cylinder while replacing the old master cylinder. I even used a flare nut wrench. So I was hoping to delete it.

But do the lines coming off of the hillholder and running to the brakes have pressure in them?

Is it possible to remove the hill holder and all of its lines and just have a regular simple braking system? I have a strictly offroad 1990 loyale wagon and the hill holder has never worked and I don't really have a use for it. I thought while I was replacing the master cylinder I would plug off the outlet on the master cylinder and delete the whole system. Is that even possible? Any help or links would be appreciated!

The hill holder cable is disconnected. I guess I'm gonna completely remove it from the car and plug the hole with a bolt. But the line that I disconnected that released the pressure was between the m/c and the hill holder. The hill holder doesn't hold pressure there does it?

I ordered a new master cylinder from rock auto and of course I got the wrong one but I removed the old master cylinder to have it in front on me when I ordered the next one. What I found out is the plunger from the pedal moves freely but the piston or w/e on the master cylinder is stuck all the way in. I took off the lines and each one was under pressure but the brakes didnt release until I remove the line to the hill holder. Is that normal? I would think after the front and rear brake lines were off the m/c there wouldn't be any pressure left in the lines.

dad lifted it up today and none of the wheels would turn. I want him to crack a bleeder valve and see if the lines are under pressure but the ground was wet and he didn't want to crawl under it. Is there anything special to look for in a replacement master cylinder? I am not using the hill holder so I'll probably delete that while i'm in there. Any cheap upgrades? It is a 1990 loyale wagon 4x4 5mt converted to D/R.

I am not sure. I'll have to wait until this weekend because i'm away at college. Maybe i can con my dad into looking sometime this week. Is a master cylinder expensive? Is that something that can be easily rebuilt or found in a junkyard for cheap? This car is an off road toy so I'd prefer not to spend a lot of money on it but it needs good brakes.

Yesterday I went out to start my car and when I pressed on the brake the pedal popped and went to the floor. I have no pedal at all but the brakes are locked up so bad that the car dies no matter how hard I try to take off. I even had my dad pull me around the yard to break the brakes loose and the tires move but it still wont take off on it's own. I'm wondering if the "pop" was the brake M/C going out and now it is holding pressure in the lines. Everything under the dash still works and moves freely. The car has sit for 3 months.

No hids on this old beast

oops! stuck my brother

It runs, I soldered in a piece of wire.

The black fusible link was burnt inside the cover. where do you get those? what does the black one do?

1990 loyale, I have the battery in the rear with a cable ran to the back from the starter to the + and - of the battery. I extended the wire from the fuse link box to the + terminal on the starter. I hooked the starter up backwards, It wont start now. No head lights, no dash lights. The fuse links "look" good. This will teach me that i need to put a piece of red tape on the positive cable.

but it's only 3 miles to the mud hole

I am building a mud car out of my 1990 loyale and after the 6" lift I noticed the oil pump and filter are pretty exposed. The stock one wont come anywhere close to fitting, of course. Anyone have pics of their skidplates? I need something quick and easy because I have a mud bog coming up Saturday the 3rd of july. I'm currently just using it for mud so it wont be bashing rocks.

I am gonna have one day between the time I finish up my mudwagon (1990 loyale) and the day of our mud bog. Is there any thing I can do to give my clutch a shot at making it through it? I have zero miles on a brand new exedy oem replacement clutch kit (pressure plate, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch plate) that I put in along with a resurfaced flywheel. I swapped the clutch when I put in the D/R 5mt. But I am gonna have 1 day to try to break-in the clutch. I live in the country so I thought I would do 50 gear changes and let it cool for 20 minutes and repeat 10 times. It says 300-500 miles of stop and go driving. but I think 500 gear shifts would be ok because that is what the want, right?No one drives our roads here so no one will get behind me. I have 27" tractor tires so taking it on a long trip is out. They also have a low speed rating of 40 mph or so.

yeah I took a small hole saw (1-1/4) to the panel above the offending bolt hole. I thought I could run the bolt through it backwards but I couldnt get it to start. Im thinking about drilling it out very slightly and running a bolt straight though and using a nut on the bottom or top. anyone opposed? The threads are pretty f'ed.

In my area it might be easier to drill it and tap it to fit a 1/2" bolt. I have a 1/2" tap. Should I use fine or coarse?

What type of tap do i need to fix some m12 x 1.25 threads I gulled up? I can see good threads but the first 1/4" or so of threads are messed up pretty badly. It's a rear subframe to body bolt hole.