Fairtax4me

The air coming into the car often passes through the engine compartment before entering the cabin through the blower fan intake. So obviously, unless the engine is off, the air getting into the ventilation system is going to be a bit warmer than the rest of the outside air. Just one possibility. If you think there is a real problem with the car take it to the dealer and have them look it over.

Temperature has nothing to do with it. What the sensor is reading is oxygen content. It does this by measuring a reaction created by the catalyst of the sensor with gases in the exhaust stream. This creates an electrical pulse which the computer measures and translates into high or low oxygen content (lean vs rich). The only thing temperature has to do with it is the sensor has to be about 600°F before it will create the signal, until the ECU sees a signal from the sensor it runs in "open loop" mode. Basically a preset group of values that will allow the engine to run regardless of sensory input, though far from optimal performance. The trick is used only for the rear sensor because that is the "check" sensor. The rear sensor only measures the difference in oxygen content after the catalytic converter has done its job. The rear O2 sensor is there only for the computer to determine when or if there is a problem with the catalytic converter. If the change in signal voltage from the front O2 sensor compares to the rear O2 sensor is inside a certain range the computer sees that as evidence of failure of the catalytic converter and sets a trouble code so that you will go get it fixed. Several reasons to do that, the least of which is environmental impact. By placing the rear sensor in an anti-fouler, it pulls the sensor out of the main exhaust stream which gives the impression of a higher oxygen content which makes catalyst efficiency codes go away. The front O2 sensor is used for adjusting how much fuel is injected into the engine. A high oxygen content will tell the computer the engine is running lean, and it will then inject more fuel to correct the condition. But the same deal applies when it is placed in an anti fouler. It pulls the sensor out of the main stream, which can make it read a higher oxygen content. The computer will then enrich the A/F mixture driving down performance and fuel economy, while at the same time driving up the work load on the catalytic converter which will eventually lead to failure. Then that catalyst efficiency code will actually be set for a good reason. Which is why you don't put anti-foulers on the front O2 sensor. Make sense?

What is the code? Does it smell like rotten eggs?

Check the linkage for the shifter first. If there is any slop in the bushings it can bind and give the impression of being stuck in gear. Also check the fluid level and the condition of the fluid. A more common reason for a manual transmission to stick in or out of gear is the clutch is failing to fully disengage. This could mean there is air in the hydraulic lines or the cable is out of adjustment depending on which type of actuation system the car has. Another common problem on Subarus is for the release fork to crack near the pivot. This causes the fork to flex more than normal and can prevent the clutch from disengaging. Unfortunately, this one requires removal of the transmission to repair.

So it all works the way it's supposed to now?

Does the steering wheel pull in one direction when you apply the brakes or does the car just drag of to one side? If you notice the wheel pull it's something with the front brakes, if the whole car moves then it's probably the rears. Did you bleed the brakes at all when you changed the pads and rotors? Do you know how long it has been since that has been done?

No car comes from the factory with anti-foulers on the O2 sensors. Somebody put them there. Why they put them on both? Beyond me. Does the CEL illuminate during the bulb test when you turn the ignition key on?

Is it just rubbing and making a bit of noise or can you feel it drag when you spin the wheel? You may try loosening the cable adjustment at the handle for a little extra slack. If that doesn't fix it pull the shoes out and sand them down a bit.

Well, best advice I can give you now is to find a factory service manual for your car. There are links on the boards here to online sources for these if you search. Hunt through the wring diagrams and find the wiring for the dash lights and pull out the cluster and poke around with a VOM at the wires that are supposed to be giving power to the lights. Then you get to figure out where the power is coming from, if it's not coming from the light switch. One thing that can cause some funny issues is a shorted filament in one of the brake light or turn signal bulbs. One filament burns out but then falls and makes contact with the other filament in the bulb. This feeds power through the working filament into the circuit of the burned out one and can cause other lights in the same circuit to illuminate.

I'm not entirely familiar with which years had solid vs hydraulic yet so I don't know. But either way, solid or hydraulic, oil starvation (which is kinda what I'm thinking) can still make them tick. And it can cause all sorts of other problems too.

Very nice scanners. I tried a 3160 for a few days but just didn't want to pony up the $$$$ that the Snap On rep wanted for it. Found one on Amazon for about half the price but just haven't had the money to get it now because of other projects. Probably not. That sounds more like a plugged cat or fuel starvation.

None of the lights should be on when the key is out. I'm kinda thinking it's a backfeed into the system but it would help to know what fuse (if any) is blown now that has made the lights turn off.

Piston slap should go away, so unless it's the rods (possible on an engine that has been majorly overheated) it's probably the lifters. Did the PO recently change the timing belt or do any other maintenance that you know of? You can look at the belt and usually determine if it is fairly new.

Just hope that doesn't have repercussions further down the road.

Did you buy an oiled filter? Filters with oil on them are notorious for covering the MAF sensor with oil and "numbing it". It won't read the proper airflow when it's covered in oil. You can buy MAF sensor cleaner or electronics cleaner and spray it on the sensor to clean the oil off if that's the case. The other thought I have it, what did you do with all the large hoses that attach to the stock airbox that mounts to the throttle body? Did you disconnect any of them?

I agree with the headlight switch. For some reason the parking light circuit is not receiving power or is being shorted. Check for power to the circuit at the switch.

I agree and understand there are many places that a torque wrench should be used rather than just going by "feel". Lug nuts (probably the most commonly over/under tightened fastener on the car), head bolts, flywheel, even valve covers and oil pans should be torqued to proper spec to avoid warping and prevent leakage, just to name a few. But even with a torque wrench you still have a risk of stripping threads or breaking bolts, especially ones that are 15-20 years old and have been torqued and re-torqued several times throughout the life of the car. Metal fatigues with time and repeated heating, cooling, and other environmental variables that the assorted fasteners on a car are exposed to.

Well thanks for 'splainin' it to a "po' dunk country boy". Now that I went and looked it up (verified my initial thought). I'll still say no, it's not a slip critical connection. The bolts don't bear any substantial load when braking force is applied because of the design of the bracket that the caliper rides in. Even if it does slip there is no chance of failure because the caliper simply can't move far enough to break the bolt. What could break the caliper slide bolt would be over tightening, which is where "tight" comes into play. Everybody has their own definition and feel of what's "tight". So it comes down to personal preference, but basically if you're using a standard size 3/8" ratchet, you won't get a bolt that size tight enough to break without really trying to break it.

How loud is it?

Or break something. Caliper bolts generally just have to be tight. Not entirely sure what you mean by "slip critical". The caliper slides on the bolts regardless of how tight they are, so I guess the answer is.... no?

Hmm, kinda sounds like a short then. Do they stay on when you take the key out?

5 speed! No trans codes for a manual durrr.. Can you move the shifter at all?

Absolutely. 1stsubaruparts.com $99 Or you get 4 or 5 from the junkyard for $20. Your part number is the wrong one. You want this one as far as I can tell. 34160AC030 Can't post a direct link to the $99 which says for outback, but select your year and model and keyword search "coupling". lol I gave you the wrong PN, but fixed it. :-P

Sounds like limp mode. Try to find a way to pull trans DTCs? Any CEL codes?

Probably not bad for a pre-pulled part. How long is the warranty period? If you can get one from a place where you pull it yourself they're usually about 100 - 300 depending on the market. I think it's $175 with a $25 core charge for an auto trans at the place I regularly go to. And they even offer a 30 day warranty.