Fairtax4me

Many synthetic motor oils are engineered to last up to a year under light duty driving before needing to be changed. Many European car makers now recommend 10-12k mile drain intervals with full synthetic oil. American makers are catching on. It won't be long before a 12 month oil change interval will be common place for every car on the road.

Michigan... I don;t buy those filters with the "grip" paint on them. I'm not sure what the stuff is, but I bought one once and before I put it on the car I looked at the bare metal on top and little yellow bits of that sand were all over it, and all down inside the filter, all over the anti drain back valve, the rubber seal, the stuff was everywhere. I took it back and got a plain old white purolator. Just something unsettling to me about visualizing little yellow grip paint sand particles floating around my engine through the bearings and across the cylinder walls like a mini roller coaster ride of engine death.

New head gaskets and it should be fine. Sucks you had to wait this long to find out it needed more work. You'll get to enjoy it eventually.

That would do it. I've heard of that a few times with these, but only with the front knuckle, and they usually break or crack. Subaru says you have to use their "special tool" when pressing bearings in or out to avoid damage to the knuckle.

They wanted you to pay $7 a piece for the grommets?!? Glad you got 'em cheaper, but for future reference... https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html Part numbers 13271AA051 grommets $2.52 each x6 = $15.12 13294AA012 Gaskets (both sides are the same) $10.04 each x2 = $20.08 $35.20 + shipping...

It'll probably lock up, and you'll be stuck wherever it happens. Whether its on your street or going down the interstate it'll stop dead in it's tracks and it just plain won't move no matter how hard you try to make it. Either that or it will lock then explode and take out the rest of the transmission with the chunks that go flying. You won't get much warning when it quits. If you're going 25 or something you might get a few seconds of a jerky feeling or thunking that might feel like a misfire, then it'll jam and that'll be all she wrote. There used to be a video of a guy racing on Youtube and the diff locked up on him. I can't find it anymore, but it was pretty fun to watch.

Looks fine to me... must be those new super low friction air bearings. :-p

Guessing on your ... short... description you mean the front differential. Which fluid did you check?

1/2" ratchet.

It shouldn't matter for a knock sensor. You could use one from a Ford or a Volkswagon it still works the same way.

Yeah just a vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum. Could also be checked by reading MAP values when the car is running if you have a baseline to compare to. The only difference in the diagnostic systems between a 2000 and 2001 might be the protocol, but good software should be able to work with either one regardless.

Shouldn't have made a big difference. The Center diff is hard to screw up. Though I suppose with extended use a spare could cause excess wear on the bevel gears. Thing is whatever noise those might make would disappear once the full size tire was replaced, assuming that it is of equal size and tread wear as the other 3 tires on the vehicle. Which now begs the question, did you replace it with a brand new tire? Or did you repair the old tire?

Hmm... interesting. The only McIntosh I know of in the audio world is these guys. They make some seriously high end equipment. http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/

LoL! I had to start laughing when someone mentioned wiring up the ECU to be powered all the time. My first thought when I read the very first post of this thread was, Why not just run a constant 12v power wire for the ECU so it doesn't turn off when the key is switched off? Seems like it should work. But I guess you have to do it to find out.

Hmmm... a Japanese model you probably can't press "Reset" and make it go back to the default settings. I dunno, go find a Japanese restaurant and ask if they can figure it out? Might be worth a shot!

I honestly have no clue. There's no adjustment for camber on the rear without using cam bolts. If your car has those then that could be why, but there really isn't any reason a car should need those unless it's been modified (lowered/lifted) or wrecked.

Our County cops have everything imaginable. Including about a dozen brand new Honda Accords that they use for both marked and unmarked patrol vehicles. Among the others they have Impalas, Intrepids (both getting old now) Crown Vics, quite a few Expeditions, a Mustang (and it is marked), AND a riced out Civic for spying on street racers. Most people don't know about that one, and probably never will.

There are something like 2 dozen chassis grounds in various places on the car. You're going to want to look at interior grounds. I'd check the two on either side of the transmission tunnel directly under the dashboard. There should also be one or two under the drivers side of the dash. Remove the lower kick panel and look up under the dash. All the wires going to it should be black or brown.

One post is quite enough thank you. I will give you Kudos for providing past maintenance history. Most people don't do that, even experienced forum users sometimes don't, and it does help in many situations. I'm not sure how much help I can provide, but a simple vacuum check could provide some answers. Another thing that could help would be freeze frame data of what is going on when those codes are being set. A good diagnostic scanner would be able to show that info.

Not sure about the Outback but I drove a 2010 Forester the other day and the seats in that I swear were the same as the ones in my 96 Legacy, just covered in leather instead of upholstery. They weren't very comfortable either.

Why did they cast dimples in the pistons if they don't even line up with the valves? Nice to hear you got it running. Sorry to hear you had to go through so much to get it there. All part of the fun of owning a Subaru I suppose.

With diagonal split brake systems it doesn't really matter which way you bleed it just as long as you see clear fluid with no bubbles and don't let the fluid in the reservoir run out. Now triangulated brake systems like the ones Volvo uses are a bit different. There is a procedure because the front calipers are dual piston and have a separate line for each which is tied in with the rear calipers. To add to the complexity there is a lockout valve which cuts the flow to one half of the circuit in the event that brake pressure is lost, so if you stomp on the pedal too hard during bleeding it closes the valve, which is a royal PITA to reset.

Possible, but probably a pain in the rump roast. Most hood latches these days are designed to not be opened from the outside without going to a LOT of trouble. Keeps people from reaching in through the grille and popping the hood to steal your battery, or carburetor, something important like that. Only these days people would steal something like the ABS module or any other control module they can get their hands on.

You win some you lose some. Glad to hear you're OK. I wouldn't expect frame damage from looking at the outside, but you can't always tell. At worst the bumper support might be tweaked. New bumper reinforcement, cover, hatch and a tail light should be about all it needs. Can you get the hatch open to see if it damaged the jamb or latch?

Probably the separator plate. They sell the new ones as a kit because they use different bolts with the new designed part. Ultra grey RTV should work. I used Permatex anaerobic sealer when I did mine.