Fairtax4me

Seems to me that you should have 3 U joints? The Viscous coupler part of the diff is completely sealed from the rest of the differential similar to the center differential of the manual transmissions. It could be possible that it is damaged inside, but highly unlikely. And you wold only notice it when turning, or if one wheel is significantly larger than the other. If the gears and bearings are good, then the diff is fine. What condition are the tires in on this car? How about the axles? Any ripped boots? Any that look like they've been replaced recently?

Ran fine before what? Did you do some work to it? After cranking for 15 seconds or so can you smell raw fuel in the tail pipe?

Does the connector on your car look like the one in the 96 manual? I don't have the entire manual, there's a section missing I'm sure. I did download it online but I couldn't figure out where to tell you to get it from. I think it's gone now. I can email it to you if you want. I'll warn you though, it's a little out of order.

Yeah, I figured it would be kind a shady. The PP said Valeo on it, but the disc had nothing, the bearings that came with it said made in japan, but it looked like it was just kinda thrown together. From a few parts bins. Did you happen to look at the disc and see it it had any markings on it? A real Exedy disc would have the Daikin logo stamped or inked on it somewhere. Another thought... You did install the disc facing the correct direction right? The springs/hub should be towards the transmission.

Here's what I have in the 96 FSM. Should be the same.

Awesome! Thanks a bunch! I'll get the dealer to price one for me when I go pick up the other stuff I ordered last week. Most things they can beat online pricing. And if not, not having to pay shipping usually makes it worth it. One of those little perks of working for the company.

I just did a ton of looking around at clutches and flywheels, and the best I could tell the only difference between 2.2 and 2.5 was the pressure plate. The rest was the same. So I figured the clamp force was probably the only difference for the 2.5.

If it's in the FSM then that's probably what the torque should be. Though I'm not sure what you mean by Gold vs Olive axle nuts (color?), I don't think it makes that big of a difference.

Order one online. Plenty of dealers online that will sell parts at a discount and shipping for most small parts is flat rate.

There should be two nuts on the back side of the pin on the release lever. One larger than the other, the small one is used as a lock nut to just hold the larger one in place. Those are threaded onto the end of the cable which is fed through the hole in the center of the pin on the release lever. I tried to take a picture of mine but it there's not enough room to get a camera in there for a decent shot.

Correcto! Honestly, I'm not to worried about the NVH, unless theres a really huge difference. This thing shakes and vibrates enough already, A little more won't bother me as long as it is fixing a current problem. So the 5 speed is different. Do you know the PN for the 5 speed part? Or is that the one? I figure I might as well go for the harder one since it's about half the cost of the normal one.

I don't think those need to be connected for OBD readiness monitors to be set. What the Test mode plug does is put the ECU in Test mode. It runs a diagnostic of all the relays, solenoids, and some sensors. It has it's uses, but I don't think OBD monitors are one of them.

You will always have a small amount of consumption. If there were NO consumption the rings would wear out in nothing flat. Low consumption is great. Less oil in the cylinder creates a more stable fuel burn, giving more power and better mileage (more efficient). It is using a bit, but just not enough to notice on the stick, which is really the ideal rate of consumption. I wouldn't worry about it.

A lot of people say new brakes, new clutch that kind of thing when they sell a car, but how old is "new" is the question. "New" might be a year ago. You don't really know unless you watched them do it. You also don't know what was actually replaced. They might have just put a new disc in it and left it at that. Test the clutch by driving down a road at about 40-45mph in 4th gear. Push the pedal in, put the gas on the floor, and rip the pedal back out. Engine speed should come right back to where it was before within a half second or so and the car should jerk and throw you around for a second. If the engine speed rides back down over the course of a few seconds, the clutch is worn or not in good shape and you'll probably want a new one. The hill holder cable is easier to re-attach if you disconnect it from the release lever first. You can get at the cable end on the lever easier from the passenger side of the car, it may sound weird but there IS more room that way.

I'd have the cylinder bored over a hair (.010) and use an oversized ring on that one. You can try honing the cylinder and putting in a new set of rings, but honing doesn't make the cylinder round. It may not fix the problem. Couple extra bucks for a bore and hone at a machine shop ensures no cylinder wall damage or out of round, and new rings properly broken in will do the trick. Be sure to double check all other cylinders for wear before jumping into this too far. You might even decide to do all 4 cylinders so you get even compression. That would cost a bit more, but may be worth it in the long run if you decide you want to keep this car/engine for a long period of time. Or you might decide that it's not worth it and want to drop a whole new engine in. 2.2s are cheap, and bullet proof (no HG problems).

Check the spark plug wells for water. Very easy to get it in there past the plug boots without meaning to.

Junkyard for under $100, and maybe 3 hours work if doing it for the first time. Just have to match the ratio of the trans. How do you figure that the rear diff is bad? What symptoms? What have you done to determine that it has a problem? And no, just putting the FWD fuse in will not help if indeed the rear diff is toast.

Might be the TOB on the way out. Did you re-connect the hill holder? The fork does need some tension to pull the TOB back off of the pressure plate when the cable is at rest, otherwise the TOB will wear out REAL quick.

Shouldn't be hard at all. You remove the tail shaft housing of the transmission (8 bolts) and the center diff pulls right out. Disassembling it is probably more difficult than getting it out. But you can find the instructions for how to do so in any FSM from like 90 - 2004 Legacy or Impreza. You do have to remove the exhaust system, and the drive shaft, but the transmission does not need to come completely out to remove/modify/change, the center diff.

Try Rockauto.com. Their shipping is a bit steep sometimes, but worth it on most parts. And they do ship quickly. They had a radiator listed for my 96 for $100. Same brand, same part number at Advance Auto was close to $300.

I bought a Valeo kit off Ebay (the cheapest kit I found on Ebay, $109 shipped.) and it is working perfectly thus far. Are you sure the "chatter" isn't due to a worn carrier bearing/bushing, or U-joint? edit: BTW Valeo and Daikin (Exedy) make OEM clutches for Subaru.

I don't have a pic but I can try to explain it. The end with the threads should have a few conical washers or spacers, with a rubber bushing and then two nuts. The washers sit in the cone shaped recess on the release lever. The cable is run back towards the firewall through the cable mount on the transmission. There should be a rubber bushing on the sheath of the cable that fits into the holder on the trans. It might be a tight squeeze but it will press in. From there it runs down and loops around to where it goes through the firewall. Where did you order the cable from? Did you double check the part number on the part you got with what is listed for your car?

The rumble could be the axles not installed correctly, or the drive shaft carrier bearing. Did you notice if it happens more on acceleration than at cruising speed? I would also check all of the lug nuts as well. Starter contacts might be bad causing the no start. (Pretty cheap fix for this, you can search the board to find out how) Check the nut on the cable and be sure it is tight. Also check the red wire that connects to the solenoid right next to the cable and make sure it is pushed on all the way. Can't hurt to double check the battery terminals and clean them for good measure.

BPT is Back Pressure Transducer. I know what it's called, just exactly what it does I'm not sure. (never bothered to find out) But I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the opening and closing of the EGR under certain conditions. The ECU may open the EGR valve to test for operation after initial start. Though it should not open normally until the engine is at cruising speed at "steady" throttle. Under mid range RPM the mixture tends to go lean under light throttle. Lean mixture leads to high combustion temps, creating higher NOx emissions.

Must have been lucky. There's no 100% guarantee that valves will get bent when a TB goes, just a very very good chance. Lower engine speed increases the odds of survival. Were they having some sort of driveability issue after the install?