Fairtax4me

Live and learn.

I don't see the point unless they're damaged.

And probably futile. From what I have read, these things start reading incorrectly within a year from being brand new. Replacement parts are expensive, and the problem is almost guaranteed to return. I go 240 - 250 miles in town before filling up, (I average 20mpg city) and even then I still have about 4 gallons left in the tank. You just get used to looking at the trip ODO after a little while.

Pick tools are great for this kind of thing.

Those two codes are two trip codes. How far have you driven since the reset? I have a P0106 currently. Replaced the MAP and it's still there. Checked all vacuum lines and can't find anything severely out of whack but the car seems to run fine. I gave up on it until the weather gets warmer.

Of course the car can't just let me slide with a new clutch and main needle bearing in the transmission, it has to make me do something else to please it! I've had a very very slow leak around the water pump since I got this thing (96 2.2 in case anyone wonders), which I can smell from time to time, but I've never had the coolant BURNING smell that I had this morning. (burning as in, dripped on the exhaust pipes and burned off as they got hot, not a pleasant smell.) So, Does anybody use something besides just the little paper gasket when replacing a water pump? I'm thinking some Indian Head shellac will keep it from doing this ever again.

3 bolts and the whole assembly pops out. The hardest one to get to is behind the grille. Putting that one back is optional. But the grille is really easy to remove. Get out your flavorite flat head screw driver, pull the grille outward with your hand, (start on one side and work your way across). If you look close at the little tabs on top they have two bits on either side that stick out, just pop those in with the screw driver and the tab will slide back. The lower tabs half the time are broken or will break when you remove the grille, but just a quick pull upwards will get them loose. I take them off and put them on the grille before reassembly. Little tab on the bottom that you just slide forward or up (which ever way you look at it) with your finger and it will slide right out.

I was wondering what Mechainicals are. Hesitation is a pretty common problem in any car that has TBW. Most of the time aftermarket tuners are the ones who get it straightened out the best.

I did eventually find the problem to be a broken solder joint. Still running on the $25 junkyard replacement. I may fix the old one and see if it will still work. I kinda tore it up when I opened it.

I had some fun with a P0100 code back when I bought my car. Mine would randomly stall for n reason though, with no other symptoms. Engine ran perfectly, no loss of power, just would stall randomly. Even during cruising at steady speed with the car in gear. Check the wiring in the harness to the MAF sensor for cuts/crimps in the insulation things of that nature. Check inside the plug for corrosion/water/dirt or other evidence that may cause a poor connection.

"Air" in the system from a failed HG will be in the form of exhaust gases. Doing a simple block test will reveal if this is HG related.

Not necessarily. OBD2 is standardized to all vehicles currently sold in the US. But the communication protocol used by each one was not standardized until just a few years ago. There are several and car makers can pick and choose which they want to use. Some older scanners will not communicate with newer vehicles due to the new protocols used today. You can pick and choose what you want to believe on wikipedia... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics

Not if you lay on the gas and turn into it. No but really, I've done a fair amount of "playing around" with mine on gravel, and did some fun driving in the snow a few weeks back. AWD will start to push going into a turn IF you take your foot of the gas. Keep on the throttle, and it pulls the front end into the turn, swings the back end out a bit, but it follows right through. And when you get it really sideways its close to driving Rwd... just faster.

I don't see anything missing. There is no "bucket" on these lights. Adjustment is done by moving the reflector inside the housing, not by moving the whole lens. What gets me is the position of the hole for that inner bolt on the top support. It looks like it's too far back for some reason. I'll check mine in the morning and see what it looks like.

Sounds like the test mode plug is connected. Look under the dash for two wires with a green connector. Unplug them if they are connected. Guessing this car has an auto trans? (reference to park/neutral) Search the site for P1101. Sort by relevancy in the advanced search. Lots of info about that here. Same with the P0130, and the P0500. All of those are circuit codes (wiring) so check the harnesses for those items for breaks. Helps to have a multimeter to check for open circuits.

Yes, you can get repair kits at any auto parts store.

The automatics are a whole different beast. Do some searching for how this pertains to automatic transmissions specifically and you should come up with a few threads on how to address it in your case. Use the advanced search function and sort by relevancy.

Very much worth the cost if you live in a cold climate. It'll mean easier starting, faster warmup (which means less fuel), and less cylinder/ring wear.

Outback is a Legacy with a raised suspension. The bumpers were different, and the grille was taller. There is a recess in the bumper right under the grille on the OB that isn't there on the standard legacy. But the lights should be the same I would think. Same part number. 95-97 Legacy and Outback. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=1281 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=1191

Got a multimeter handy? You'll want to probe each of the lines on the window near the ground side of the grid to check each one for voltage. The FSM suggests using a piece of aluminum foil wrapped around the lead that you can use to slide along the grid lines while monitoring the reading on the meter.

There were some that had one piece housings that included the corner lamp. And others were two piece where the corner lamp was separate. I'm pretty sure the 96 should have the one piece.

Well the separator plate is like $30 for the parts but probably 4 to 5 hours labor to pull the engine/transmission to get to it. Supposing they pull the engine to do the oil pan gasket, the separator plate would take another maybe 20 minutes to fix while it's out.

I'll probably stick with the trans mount for now. The motors mounts could probably stand to be replaced, but they don't feel like they're flopping around all over the place when I shift or accelerate hard.

If you hit it with a propane torch for about a half hour it might start to glow... in one spot.

Too bad its 4.44. If it were a 3.90 I'd be interested.