Fairtax4me

I don't have a pic but I can try to explain it. The end with the threads should have a few conical washers or spacers, with a rubber bushing and then two nuts. The washers sit in the cone shaped recess on the release lever. The cable is run back towards the firewall through the cable mount on the transmission. There should be a rubber bushing on the sheath of the cable that fits into the holder on the trans. It might be a tight squeeze but it will press in. From there it runs down and loops around to where it goes through the firewall. Where did you order the cable from? Did you double check the part number on the part you got with what is listed for your car?

The rumble could be the axles not installed correctly, or the drive shaft carrier bearing. Did you notice if it happens more on acceleration than at cruising speed? I would also check all of the lug nuts as well. Starter contacts might be bad causing the no start. (Pretty cheap fix for this, you can search the board to find out how) Check the nut on the cable and be sure it is tight. Also check the red wire that connects to the solenoid right next to the cable and make sure it is pushed on all the way. Can't hurt to double check the battery terminals and clean them for good measure.

BPT is Back Pressure Transducer. I know what it's called, just exactly what it does I'm not sure. (never bothered to find out) But I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the opening and closing of the EGR under certain conditions. The ECU may open the EGR valve to test for operation after initial start. Though it should not open normally until the engine is at cruising speed at "steady" throttle. Under mid range RPM the mixture tends to go lean under light throttle. Lean mixture leads to high combustion temps, creating higher NOx emissions.

Must have been lucky. There's no 100% guarantee that valves will get bent when a TB goes, just a very very good chance. Lower engine speed increases the odds of survival. Were they having some sort of driveability issue after the install?

Does it change any if you turn? Kinda sounds like a wheel bearing from the initial description.

Bolt fell out of the shift linkage today. Got stuck in 4th gear in lunch hour traffic on one of the busiest roads in town. Thankfully the guys at the Subaru dealership (where I was going) just so happened to have a spare bolt for the shift linkage laying around and were willing to give it away. The lesson learned? Make damn sure ALL of the bolts are tight when you reinstall a transmission.

I ripped into one that was giving me trouble when I first bought my car. Turned out to be nothing more than a broken solder joint. I could probably fix it and keep it as a spare but I haven't felt like screwing with it. Not sure if yours would have the same trouble. The square top is just siliconed in place. You can cut away the silicone and pry the top off to see the guts and see where the tabs from the connector are soldered to the pins that come from the board. If the car has trouble running in the morning when it is cold it might need a Coolant temp sender.

I think the worry was that the bags would dry out and crack where they are folded, resulting in improper deployment when/if the airbags should ever be deployed. The only way to "inspect" them really is to disassemble with special tools and in controlled areas and a bunch of nonsense, so basically if you take it to a dealer to have them "checked" they'll want to replace them. (at a cost of about $1500 a peice) Either that or they'll just tell you straight up that there's really no need, then pull the whole if you're concerned about safety you should buy a newer car bit and send you off to the sales department. There's no need, and they're expensive.

I needs one. I've read about this "Hard" transmission mount that the newer STIs use with the 6 speed trans. PN D1010FE000. Does anyone know for certain if that one would fit on my 96 5 speed? Also if anyone has used one is there any noticeable difference in NVH from the normal one?

My 96 has no EGR. (ej22 manual awd) Where might I look on the ECU to find the number you need?

You can reuse those as many times as you want. Be sure to torque them to proper spec when reinstalling.

The alternator is bad. It wouldn't hurt to double check the cables and terminals for corrosion. If they're not shiny, clean them anyway.

Shifts great. Not sure if its the new fluid or if it's because I cleaned the selector shaft when I had it out replacing the seal, but it feels good. It moves nice and easy in the morning when it's cold. Going into second gear for the first two or three times in the morning usually would get a quick crunch out of it. It's still a little stiff, but no more crunch. I may end up putting a spring on the release lever to help with the feel. There's 2 inches or so of travel in the pedal between fully engaged and fully disengaged. In that area the pedal feel is fine, but beyond that going further towards the floor that last 2 inches or so of travel it's like the cable isn't even connected. Feels like there's nothing. It's hard for me to compensate for the change in resistance when I'm bringing the pedal back up. Once it hits that spot where that springiness of the pedal changes it kinda gets flung back.

Pics! Kinda tight work space. The shop is big but having two parts cars in there plus about a ton of wood that will eventually be constructed into a small room and a storage platform about 9 feet above the floor. Buncha bolts. Always helps when you have several different sizes and lengths of bolts on a component to arrange them so you know where they go. Hmmmm.... seems like somethings missing here Here's the old pressure plate. See that rust ring I was talking about? Not real sure what was going on there. But the glaze pattern is beautiful! Nice shiny flywheel. Leaky separator plate. That black line under the rear seal is RTV. The next project. Gonna throw a 3/4 ton rear end, granny 4 speed, and np205 in the soob! (wouldn't that be fun?!) That's really about all I got. The few others that I took didn't turn out well. Just not enough light in there.

95 should have both MAF and MAP. The MAP is a tiny little thing on the front of the passenger strut tower. Has a solenoid right next to it. I know Mike said he already found it but for those who don't know... P0105 Pressure sensor circuit malfunction. Check the wires for splits/ breaks in the insulation. Make sure the connector is clean inside. Make sure the sensor is receiving more than 4.5V at pin 3 on the sensor connector. (ignition on)

Switch is probably broken. Id remove it and plug the wires together, but that's me. A new switch might be anywhere from $15 - $30 at a dealer. Or you can get one at a junkyard pretty easy. Probably only a dollar or two there. Adjustment. I think there's a nut that you can spin to adjust the depth of the switch where it meets the pedal. Should be able to see it by looking under the dash up at the top of the pedal bracket. A lot of times they're plastic and will strip or crack and won't hold the switch properly.

Side to side movement is nothing to worry about. It can't go anywhere. I did find a section in the FSM concerning the release lever return spring. It is only there on models that do not have the hill holder brake. Yours has the hill holder, so it should neither need nor have that spring. That spring on your car is in no way a factory part. A P/O must have decided the pedal feel was too light and just wanted to stiffen it up some. Which is fine, but hooking a hardware store spring around a random metal line on the engine isn't the way to do it. I'd take it off if it was on my car.

Hook up an old school temp gauge on the Subaru it will do the same thing. Fuel gauges are the same way. They have circuitry built in to keep the needle from swinging when you go around corners too fast or are facing up or down hill at a stop light. From what I've read, Subaru HG failure is usually failure leads to overheating. Where if the cooling system was inadequate, you would see the problem as Overheating leading to HG failure. And the failure in that case would typically be because of a warped cylinder head. (some early 90's GM cars had that trouble)

X2 Pull the timing covers and check the belt. No oil just at idle you may be able to get away with replacing just what was damaged, but it depends on what caused the engine to stop. If it was a main or rod bearing locking up, then no you pretty much want a new engine. If a cam locks up you replace the head and usually be OK. The whining sound could be the engine turning faster because of low/no compression because the cams aren't turning.

I wouldn't right now. Use your basic 80w 90 gear oil for now. If that doesn't fix it then try a better quality or synthetic oil.

The clips he's talking about hold the release bearing to the fork and are inside the bell housing. You won't be able to see these from the outside without removing the boot around the release lever. Service manual says something like 1/4" of free play is what should be at the end of the fork. If there's more than that try adjusting the release cable. If the cable is loose the engagement point of the clutch will be near the bottom of the pedal travel (near the firewall). Think you could take a picture of that spring and where it attaches? My 96 doesn't have one, but I think it's supposed to. I just can't figure where it attaches to the bell housing.

Try a fluid change. 30k is about the limit for conventional gear oil. I have the exact opposite problem. I grind second and third when the trans is cold. The colder it gets the worse it is. I filled it with Amsoil 75w - 90 synthetic. Only been in there for a day but it did make big a difference this morning. Second was a bit stiff but no grinding, and the overall shifter feel is way better than it was before. It used to feel like it was stuck in jar of molasses in the morning. Today it felt like it does when it's warm, but it was only 28° this morning. The real test will be when it drops back into the low teens again.

The dealer I work for will install customer supplied parts on older vehicles. Of course they'd rather put on OEM parts, but sometimes O.E. parts cost more than the car's worth, and some owners just aren't willing to pay that much.

Seems like all is well. Clutch feels strong. The pedal feel is weaker than it was before but that could be because of the lack of grease on the old release lever. It does make a kinda squeaky noise when the clutch engages that I'm not sure about. As long as it doesn't get worse I don't care. I'm guessing that it has something to do with the way the flywheel was machined and will go away once it has broken in. I did get a shiny new metal separator plate from Subaru and got that put in. Whatever sealer was used on the old one was hard as a rock. But it came off easy enough. Cleaned it and threw some anaerobic sealer on the new plate. Installed with some blue thread lock on the screws because two of the old screws were literally loose enough to unscrew with my fingers, and the rest were barely tight. I usually change the rear main seal on an engine when I do a clutch, even if it's not leaking. This one was so clean, I didn't even dare get cleaner on it. I have never seen a rear seal that looked this good.

Car's back together. Everything went back in without a hitch, except 2 washers, a ground wire I found that I had broken during removal of the trans, and one of those bendy wire holders that I couldn't figure out where it went. I read a ton of stories about having trouble getting the trans mated back up after a clutch job. I had no such trouble. It slid in like a hot knife in butter. So far no leaks. Time for bed though.