Fairtax4me

You have to have a shop press to get the bearing assembly out/in. And at that you need a Subaru tool to hold the knuckle assembly a certain way while the bearing is being pressed out or the knuckle can be deformed and damaged. I'd suggest taking it to a Subaru dealer or competent independent Subaru shop to have them press the old one out and the new one in. Beyond that... pretty straight forward.

Here's a whole thread about knock sensor pics, plus info about how they work. http://www.scoobymods.com/knock-sensor-location-info-t4039.html?t=4039&highlight=knock+sensor

Second the ignitor. If you know the problem is spark related that's the only thing you haven't changed, and that's what controls spark.

Lower: 11. Uppers: 20,24 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_2/ Then there is another link pictured here... Number 9. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_1/ Dunno why they couldn't combine those two pictures and have it all in one place. That's a different setup than the older legacy. I believe the adjustment would be made on either Number 9 in the second diagram, or number 11 in the first. Or maybe you can adjust both, or even all three on that one I can't tell from looking at the diagrams.

Nope. One or more of the flaps is stuck. Take it in.

Could be a split in the vapor vent that runs along side the fill pipe. That shouldn't be too hard to check out, you can see most of that stuff through the wheel well. Lowering the tank isn't that hard, but you will want to have it empty or close to empty before you start. Otherwise you'll end up taking three baths that day. One in the morning, one in gas, and one long one with a tub of Gojo trying to get the gas smell off when you're done.

Rear toe or camber is out of whack. But only the toe angle is adjustable IIRC. If the camber is out it's because the strut or the knuckle is bent. One of the lateral arms has adjustments where it attach to the rear crossmember. They should cover most of that in the FSM. The one for my 96 had all the specs in it for alignment.

It might fit but is the amp rating the same?

I guess we'll go with the flames out of the muffler theory then...

Before you go replacing, get it tested. Most auto parts stores will do it for free. Make sure all power and ground connections are tight and clean. If you find that it does in fact need replacement. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=2434 I think I'd go for an after market unit with a warranty at that price.

Was this a smokers car? Sounds to me more like someone threw a cigarette out the window, and it came back in and landed on the carpet in the cargo area. I think it would have to be throwing flames out of the muffler to get hot enough to catch the interior of the car on fire.

If one is not firing there will be no noticeable different at idle. But under load misfires become magnified and a considerable difference can be felt. The CEL should be on. If it's not it's burned out or covered up. Search how to pull the codes and post them here. It's probably a sensor out of whack. There are a few that make the car go into limp mode where it will kill the number one injector to tell you there is a serious problem. If the car has been sitting you need to change the fluids. All of them, brakes, engine, trans, differentials, power steering, and coolant. Drain the gas tank and get some fresh gas in it. Put on a new fuel filter. And do some basics like new spark plugs and wires, PCV valve, air filter, and check around for broken/split/chewed vacuum hoses.

Black dust would be rubber from the belt. Nothing you can do about it really just clean it off and go about your business. If it is just a bunch around the idler bearings then it's just grease that they have flung out over time. If there is oil it's from a seal somewhere nearby. Either one of the cam seals, or the front crank seal, or the oil pump seal to the block. There is also an O ring on the oil pump that likes to go bad. It also tends to get pinched if someone has removed the pump and reinstalls it with the old O ring. Could also be a head gasket weeping. Generally those aren't worth bothering over unless it starts puking out of there.

Nice job. Where did you get the mounting plate? The newer cars don't have the same problem with cup holders as the older models do. I'd love to have my cd player up higher, but if I have a drink in the cup holder I can hardly see the screen, much less try to change Cds. :-\ If you're having a hard time seeing it, try tilting it forwards with a few washers or spacers on the lower screws between the mounting cradle and the plate. Turning it to face more towards your direction also helps visibility with LCD screens.

Look in the glove box and make sure there isn't something in there sliding around. Same with the cargo area in the trunk. Could also be something under the carpet down by the shield that covers the ECU (loose screw maybe).

If it has swirls on it or any really deep grooves have it machined. Costs about $50. Or you can probably get a brand new one for $100 or so at a parts store, but I wouldn't trust it to stay flat very long. A Subaru flywheel costs around $250, so machining is usually the best option. Otherwise, if the friction surface is smooth and one color(doesn't look like a rainbow, like burnt metal), scuff it up with some emery cloth and put it back in.

Ever used Seafoam?

Had a friend who JUST had the same problem in a BMW 325. Pedal would randomly, slowly sink, and the car would start rolling (if on a hill). Pump the pedal and it would come right back up. She dealt with it for a while because it would only do it once every few weeks. Eventually got to the point where it was doing it once a day. Replaced the MC, problem solved. Or so it would seem. It has only been 4 days.

I'm gonna guess that if you don't have a ruptured FPR, you probably need an O2 sensor.

A bad TPS would show symptoms of throttle sticking or not responding. Very simple devices and they don't generally go bad. If it were that It would surely throw a code, although this is OBD1 we're talking about. The engine would have to be on fire before the ECU noticed something wrong with the TPS. Had one go bad on a Chevy Corsica I used to own, even just the slightest touch on the throttle pedal would make the engine redline. NOT fun to have the car try to run away in rush hour traffic. Two feet standing on the brakes and the best I could do was keep it from accelerating more, but it sure wasn't slowing down. Nuetral, Key off and coast across 4 lanes of heavy traffic... not much fun either!!!!

Take a look on the back of the head and make sure it's not the rubber plug seal at the end of the camshaft leaking. They like to seep with age and the oil runs right down towards the center of the block and looks just like the head gasket is seeping. Replacing one of those is not quite as big of a deal as doing a head gasket job. And they cost $3 from the dealer and 99% of the time are in stock.

You swapped injector with cyl 1 but the problem stayed with cyl 3 correct? Did you check the rest of the plugs as well? Do that if you haven't. White on the plugs generally means a lean condition, or ash deposits from burning small amounts of coolant or oil or some other form or foreign material in the combustion chamber. When was the last time it got new plugs and wires? Were/are the wires Subaru wires?

Depending on what type of coolant was used, when the engine was installed or the last time the coolant was flushed. If it was regular green antifreeze the crud could be silicate dropout which is what happens to old school green antifreeze when it gets old. But two years isn't long enough for that to happen. More than likely it's either the Subaru additive or dropout due to mineral contamination. If your area has hard water, the minerals in the water will stick to the insides if your radiator and engine if tap water is used to fill the cooling system.

Section 2-7 on page 221. DTC P0335. In the Troubleshooting section under On Board Diagnostics. I'd link it for you but photoshop doesn't like me today for some reason. That's all I could find at least. Says basically the same thing for both the cam and crank angle sensors. Test resistance and if they fall out of the listed range (which is the same for both sensors) replace the sensor. That's all it says about testing the sensor itself, it does have other info on testing the wiring harness.

Ok. I have the FSM for 95 and it says nothing about testing the Crank/Cam sensors besides checking resistance.