Fairtax4me

Don't think you're gonna get it from a seven year old thread. There are quite a few threads here involving sender unit removal form the fuel tank, some searching (which it appears you're entirely capable of) should reveal them. The rest is just cleaning off the little coil wire on the sender.

Vacuum bleeders generally don't make a perfect seal at the bleed screw and you will continuously see bubbles no matter how long you bleed. If the fluid was coming out clean, then it should be good. Did you drive the car after bleeding? Pedal still sinking?

I know there are differences in the cam sensor wheels between some years, I can only assume the crank sprockets to be different as well. And if the computer is looking for one type, but sees another, it doesn't count properly and can't tell the coil or injectors when to operate accurately. I believe the fix is to swap the crankshaft sprocket, but be sure to check the wheels on the back of the cam sprockets as well while you're in there, you may need to swap those as well.

Does playing with the little dimmer slider/roller switch change anything? I agree, this is something that could be entirely livable on a ten or fifteen year old car, but on a brand new one it is just plain unacceptable. Car's still under warranty, raise hell until it gets fixed. If you can't get any magic out of the dealer, call SOA directly and try speak with the Regional Service Representative.

Part number looks like... 73067AA040 or 73067AA041 1ssubaruparts lists it for $46. Chances are yours is fine though. Mine has been doing great. Did you get a new drier to put in while you're doing all this AC work?

I use a long vacuum hose (about 3 feet) attached o the nipple that sticks straight up on top of the intake manifold. Put the can where it won't tip over, dip the vacuum hose into the can and "slurp" about a half a can out with one hand while you feather the throttle with the other to keep the engine running.

Looks like the same incorrect expansion valve I got when I was working on mine. IIRC there is supposed to be another copper tube that isn't on that one. I tried and couldn't ever seem to fine the correct one. Perhaps a dealer would have it. I wouldn't even mess with the condenser, file the claim and they should have you refunded in a few days. Fedex isn't like lost baggage dept. at the airport. They actually do do things in a timely manner. I am constantly reminded of why I stopped using Fedex for shipping large items.

Yeah that's shipping damage. File a claim with the carrier who delivered it, they should give you a refund.

Sounds good. Do you have a temp gun to see just how warm it's getting compared to the other side?

I'm not familiar enough with Subaru brakes yet. Did The new caliper came with new slide bolts? If it didn't did you make sure the ones you have are clean and well lubricated?

P1101 is Neutral switch circuit, Off. That could be the inhibitor switch (park/neutral safety switch on the transmission selector shaft), or a wiring issue. That specific circuit of the O2 sensor won't directly affect fuel economy. As a matter of fact the rear sensor (which this code applies to) doesn't have any input in fuel control at all. That's not to say the front O2 sensor isn't causing the problem. It may be slow due to age or clogged or damaged from sitting but just isn't throwing a code yet. Testing the sensor might reveal it is faulty. I might check the rear sensor to make sure it is it's a break in the heater rather than a power delivery problem, (maybe a mouse chewed some wires) but I probably wouldn't bother to replace it unless you get a P0420 code out of it, or it becomes an issue for future inspections.

I'd confirm that both fans are running. Next is to find out what is meant by "full" of antifreeze. Is he just looking in the reservoir or the radiator as well? I'll also second nipper with checking the fins of the radiator as well as the condenser for obstruction. Internal obstruction is a possibility. A flush may be in order if a new radiator cap doesn't cure it.

What helps the most is to move the shifter stay bracket out of the way. That's the round rod with the large bushing that is attached to the back of the transmission. It's a 12mm lock nut that faces towards the drivers side of the car. You remove the nut, then pull the washer off. The spring on there is pretty easy to stretch enough to remove the washer still attached. Then you can detach the spring from the shifter linkage and place it and the washer aside. The washer is keyed so it will only go back on one way. Then pull the stay bracket off of the mount stud and push it down or up or wherever you can to get it out of the way enough to get at the bolts on the linkage. There are a few pics in this thread that might help. http://www.scoobymods.com/cusco-kartboy-shifter-bushings-t180.html?t=180&highlight=Kartboy

Pretty much an kind of Ceramic pads will be a big improvment. I myself am partial to EBC brake pads. They are pricey, but well worth it when you really need those brakes to work. Others to consider. Ate, (Ah-Tay) they produce OE parts for lots of European makes, including Mercedes Benz, Audi, Peugeot, possibly BMW as well? Akebono as you've already read about. On the less expensive side, you might be pleasantly surprised by a set of Duralast Gold ceramic pads from Autozone of all places.

Sweet! Now you can take it to the scrap yard and get $20 instead of 10!

Pull the plug wires and check for water in the plug wells. Bet your spark plugs are swimming.

Yes they used an EJ22 turbo in the 91? - 94 Legacy SS models. That's a pretty rare engine if it is actually an EJ22T block. I'm not sure how to identify them, but I'm sure some searching will dig up an answer for that. I'm not sure if you need a turbo manifold for the intake or not, I believe there are some wire harness differences, but I haven't seen an EJ22T in person so I'm not 100%. You might rename the title of the post to include "turbo" to get the more experienced turbo members drawn into the thread.

Agreed on bubble levelers. Not worth a hoot. Aim them in the dark in a flat parking lot. The up/down adjusters are towards the outer half of the housing, sticking straight back, about midway top to bottom. Left/right adjusters are towards the inside half of the housing about the same level. I turn them with an 8 or 9mm (can't remember exactly) socket on a small ratchet.

It's pretty easy to break these things apparently. A new sensor may be needed in your case if it was removed while the work was being performed. When installing the sensor if too much force is applied to the bolt it will crack the unit resulting in an open circuit. Don't know what I was thinking in my last post in this thread. Reference voltage to a knock sensor... Where's the brain fart icon? Need one of those in that smiley list.

Speaking of 91 Legacies. Somebody just traded one in at one of our other stores. It's literally spotless. Not sure the mileage but it really looks like it just rolled out of the showroom, except for one little spot of rust on the hood about the size of a nickel, probably from a rock chip. I just saw it today, so I have to wait 'til Monday to find out how much they put in it.

Most of the time I only use heated seats for my back. Feels good after a long day to lean back a bit in the seat and let the heat soak in. This only works if the seat back has heater pads in it, if it's just the bottom it's a waste of electricity.

Have changed it twice and no change, also changed out the switching solenoid with no change. I'd like to check that my vacuum routing is correct, I replaced all of the hoses in that area (which are really the only vacuum hoses on the engine) and I'm 98.76483% positive I put them back correctly, but I'm kinda wondering if the reading is fluttering a bit because it feeds off of the number 3 intake runner, and confusing the sensor. I may switch that to the port by the throttle body and see if that changes anything. edit: also went checking hose connections again earlier today, and found traces of fuel in the FPR hose... AGAIN!

The cam seal on the drivers side is probably not doable on the car without removing a lot of stuff. A large screw driver hammered into the outer case of the seal from above should be able to pry it out, but getting the new one in is the real trick. You need to drive it straight in or else it will warp and leak. And the trick to removing and seating a new O-ring on the passenger side cam cap, twist it back and forth a bit as you push in. Took me 5 minutes to change that one in the car.

Take the seats from that car, and transfer the covers onto yours. Takes a few hours, and you need a hog ring clamp and about a dozen hog rings per seat.

MAP/Baro pressure sensor circuit range/performance I've just dealt with the CEL for the past 6 months or so because it doesn't seem to affect driveability.