Fairtax4me

The O ring may just be a little dried out (old). As long as it keeps most of the dirt out its fine. It's not gonna fall out or anything.

I know there is someone here with a copy of the FSM for 92 posted online for people to download. Can't remember their username though. If you do a search you should be able to find it. Starter switch is usually the ignition switch (the one you put the key in). Is there something wrong with the car? Does it start and run OK besides having the CEL on?

Just about any Subaru seat will fit into any other Subaru. I think the Forester seat tracks are slightly raised, but it will still bolt in the same place as the Legacy and Impreza seats of the same era.

Then the caps must be machined while bolted to the head, and as such can only be sold with the head. Otherwise they won't fit. I suppose you'll have to try and get it as close to flat as you can, and get a new bolt(assuming Subaru will sell the bolts separate). I wonder if a machine shop would be able to cut it down perfectly flat?

Several of us posted suggestions for your issue. Suggestions to which we received no reply other than "BTT" which implies, to me at least, that you paid no attention to, or simply ignored, said suggestions. Some of us don't particularly enjoy being ignored. I'll accept your thanks for my suggestions. But I may still recommend you find a new vehicle, as the cost of having a shop install a used transmission, if it comes to that, will likely be greater than the value of the vehicle, despite it's aesthetic or mechanical conditions. For your sake I do hope it's a simple linkage problem, not something more serious such as a bent or broken shift fork. Good luck getting your car fixed.

Ouch. Seems to me like you should be able to replace it with a new one as long as you get the proper size. You never use caps from another engine. Same reason that you don't mix up bearings.

Yeah I'm looking at the wiring diagram in the FSM for 95 and I don't see anything that would make it work on defrost, but not work if the button is pressed. The line from the mode control panel joins with the line from the switch, and then goes through an evaporation thermo switch, and the pressure switch before going to the AC clutch relay. I'd kinda suspect the switch to be honest. But a break in the wire somewhere between the switch and where it meets with the wiring from the control module is a possibility as well. Perhaps the connector on the switch is loose?

That was sarcasm btw. A sleeve you say? If you can get the sleeve out you might be able to figure out what went wrong.

The drain valve and purge control valve are two different valves. The purge control valve is hidden under the passenger intake runners. Drain valve is the one by the charcoal canister.

My god what were you doing trying to put that much torque on that poor little bolt? For future reference... they don't have to be THAT tight. A torque wrench might do you some good. I'd call some junkyards and see if you can track down a replacement. Tell them you want all the bolts for it as well. If you can't find one, order it from the dealer. They used the same part all the way back to 99, so finding a used replacement should be easy.

Diff oil is 75w90 gear oil, if you use ATF you'll destroy it in a heartbeat. Dead center under the front differential (I assume it's the front you're asking about since the rear is pretty straight forward) there is a large drain plug. It is pretty much right between where the exhaust pipes Y together from the heads. I don't recall the size but you can figure it out. Get a new aluminum washer for it from the dealer (it's like $1) before you go draining it. Anyway, remove the drain plug, let the oil drain out. Should only be about 1.5 - 2 quarts. Fill with 75 or 80w90 gear oil through the dipstick hole on the passenger side of the transmission. The dipstick is short and yellow. (probably dirty as hell but it's there) You'll need a transmission fluid funnel, or funnel with a long hose. Dipstick has marks on it or the fluid level, anywhere in the middle is fine. Pic of the dipstick location.

If the yard pulled it out it's possible they dropped it or ran it into something with the forklift and damaged it. But I think I'd go with the car being wrecked idea. I saw one a few months back that had been hit in the drivers side. The valve cover was smashed, and the cam pulley was broken off.

It's on the aluminum tag under the hood. It only says the month and year. Just stop looking so hard and you'll find it.

Get a new car.

That's pretty much standard protocol at any dealer. They will check the heads, and if they come up within spec they put them back on. As a matter of fact I think you wold be hard pressed to find ANY shop that will have the heads milled if they are in spec, unless you specifically ask them to. Being such a short time later, one would hope that the dealer will be willing to at least help pay for the needed repairs. Just keep patient when you deal with them and they should be much more willing.

Ok you have a second line to the switching solenoid. All of the ones I've seen just have a cap there. Your's is special I guess. Yeah, just take the hoses that you need and the purge solenoid from the 25 and put it on the 22.

That's what an original pump looks like after it has been cleaned and rebuilt. http://www.beergarage.com

Had been running Castrol (plain) 5-30 in mine until it developed a tic on startup that would go away sometimes in 10 seconds other times it took 10 minutes. Switched to Valvoline max life 5-30 and it stopped immediately. I'll see if it returns when it's time to change again in 2000 miles. I run plain Purolator filters. With everything sealed up there isn't any need to be concerned with switching to synthetic at 100k+ miles. The main reason for not switching is because leaks tend to develop with old seals when the detergents wash the varnish away that was holding them together. If you're not comfortable with it because of what you might have read, stick with dino or synthetic blend oil and motor away.

Sounds like you bottomed out the springs. I think you need a 4x4 transmission, transfer case, and front and rear solid axle conversion with a 6 inch suspension lift and 30x9.5x15 tires. Just kidding, get some new struts. Yes, once they have been bent, they are softened, and will continue to bend. What year and model is this?

From what I understand the cam rides directly in the head. No bearings to replace, so if the cam seized, it likely gouged the journal/bearing surface in the head. You won't know until you remove the cam, but I'd plan on replacing the head if I were you.

Goes to the Evap purge solenoid. Which is normally well hidden under the passenger intake runners. You don't need anything else, you have everything you need right there. You might have to steal the solenoid from your 25 if it's not under there, but that's about it. The line off to the left side of the 22 pic with the yellowish plastic thing connects to the switching solenoid on the passenger strut tower. If you're worried about looks, most of that grey corrosion on the intake and TB should come off with a wire brush. Shoot it with some good silver high temp paint after that to seal it and prevent further corrosion.

Just T it off one of the ones that goes to the BPT. Or T it off the one on the passenger intake runner. Or get a huge T, and T it off the brake booster line. Doesn't matter as long as it gets vacuum from somewhere. The nipple on mine isn't on the throttle body it's actually on the manifold. Just sticks straight up.

HELL no they don't work! It won't leak, it'll just seep and after 3 weeks it won't look any different than it probably does now. Take it back, use the money to buy a tube of ultra grey to seal it.

I had one on a water pump belt in my old Cadillac try to seize up on me once. Ordered the new part, but HAD to drive the car for the weekend (I didn't HAVE to, I just wanted to... for some dumb reason ). I sprayed the bearing with PB blaster and got it freed up, then shot some lithium spray grease into it. Worked great and still spun freely after 300 miles. Oh the days of naivety...

I think they meant between the radiator FAN and the chassis. There is no ground wire, or any other wire for that matter, attached to the radiator itself. Both fan ground wires are black and should ground to the chassis on the inner part of the frame rails on either side of the radiator. They're easily visible and reachable from the top.