Fairtax4me

Have changed it twice and no change, also changed out the switching solenoid with no change. I'd like to check that my vacuum routing is correct, I replaced all of the hoses in that area (which are really the only vacuum hoses on the engine) and I'm 98.76483% positive I put them back correctly, but I'm kinda wondering if the reading is fluttering a bit because it feeds off of the number 3 intake runner, and confusing the sensor. I may switch that to the port by the throttle body and see if that changes anything. edit: also went checking hose connections again earlier today, and found traces of fuel in the FPR hose... AGAIN!

The cam seal on the drivers side is probably not doable on the car without removing a lot of stuff. A large screw driver hammered into the outer case of the seal from above should be able to pry it out, but getting the new one in is the real trick. You need to drive it straight in or else it will warp and leak. And the trick to removing and seating a new O-ring on the passenger side cam cap, twist it back and forth a bit as you push in. Took me 5 minutes to change that one in the car.

Take the seats from that car, and transfer the covers onto yours. Takes a few hours, and you need a hog ring clamp and about a dozen hog rings per seat.

MAP/Baro pressure sensor circuit range/performance I've just dealt with the CEL for the past 6 months or so because it doesn't seem to affect driveability.

I have the same thing in 3rd when the trans is warmed up. I just try to shift a little slower and it doesn't do it. Thinking about using 75w140 synthetic gear oil. I have Amsoil 75w90 synthetic in it right now which cured the crunch into 2nd in the cold. Changing manual trans oil is pretty simple. Just like changing engine oil but without any filters to mess with. Drain old out, pour new in. Pick up a new aluminum Oring for the drain plug before you do the change.

Sweet! Congrats on a successful swap, and No CEL to boot!

I'm trying to get rid of the P0106 code again. That CEL is starting to get annoying. Anyway, looking in the FSM the very first step it asks for transmission type AT or MT. For MT is says to "Check AT/MT identification circuit. <Ref. to [T11BN0].>" I can't find that section in the FSM, but I'm pretty sure I read that the MT ID circuit is only a pin to ground from the ECM. I think I found it in the wiring diagrams. Looks like pin 50 on B84 which goes to ground on connector E3. Can someone just confirm that for me? Or point me to the right page out of the FSM? The other thing I'm trying to find is a vacuum hose routing diagram for this car, which I would think should be in the FSM, but I can't seem to find that either. I think the one I got is missing a few (hundred) pages. The one under the hood is not the one for this particular car. This is a 96 2.2 MT, no EGR.

There are quite a few other Subarus in the neighborhood as well that didn't squeeze into the pic.

Hit it with some Seafoam through the intake and a bottle of BG44K in the fuel tank. Then do plugs wires and all that other good stuff.

I only have a few surviving pictures of my Legacy that are from when I first bought it. I had a few others that got lost due to computer crashes but the car hasn't changed much aesthetically since then. All the rest of the pics I have are of work being done on the car. Such as the clutch job back at crimmuts time.

Today is Friday (for 13 more minutes). You mean last friday? Try ordering from Tirerack sometime. I get my stuff next day in most cases when I order from them. Same thing for Amsoil, but their Richmond distribution center is only about an hour and a half from my house. I could drive there and pick up my order if I wanted. Might do it someday just for gits and shiggles.

If you do it make a video and put it on Youtube please!!!! Doesn't seem to me like it should be that bad, but it depends on the reason the motor seized in the first place I guess.

Tire size is quite a bit larger, but the biggest thing is your math is way off. 10mpg would only get you 160 miles on a FULL tank (15.9 U.S. gallons) . At 250 miles you are getting at least 15.5 mpg. But it's probably more like 18-19 mpg if you fill up when the gauge first reads empty. Most of these cars if the gauge says empty it will take 11.5 - 12.5 gallons to fill. 250 miles on 12.5 gallons is 20 mpg. Now add to that your larger tires, which will make the speedometer read slow. This also causes the Odometer to count slower, so you may in fact be getting closer to 270 miles per tank allowing an approximate 7.6% bump due to the tire size. Your current tire size is larger than the stock size by roughly 7.6% according to the tire calculator here. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html All of a sudden you're getting 21+mpg which is pretty normal for mixed city / highway driving.

Yes you can do it yourself. There are even how-to videos on Youtube you can watch. I have seen the kits at Autozone for something like $25. They sell the test kit and the fluid separately. The fluid is usually less than $10. Napa has a kit that comes with everything for about $45. They do work well, but are expensive, and shops usually charge about an hour labor to do a test.

If the engine is coming out get them to replace the separator plate while they have easy access to it. The plate and all hardware is only $40 or so from a dealer, and almost always in stock.

The knuckle is aluminum which could crack if you pry on it too much. I'd suggest loosening the lower nut on the ball joint but leave it in place and hammer on the control arm to pop the ball joint out of the knuckle first. That should also separate the ball joint from the control arm after a few whacks from the hammer. It may help to remove the nut first to clean the threads and then put it back on. Then you can remove it by hand after getting everything separated.

I'm gonna guess you are replacing the shift linkage bushings? depending on what setup you have you may need a set of punches to drive out the roll pins that hold the linkage boss to the selector shaft. This is a royal PITA. It helps if you put the trans in 5th gear. Other than that a set of metric sockets and wrenches is all you need. I think I did mine with 1 wrench and 2 sockets. One is 12mm, the others are 13 or 14. Unbolt the old stuff, bolt the new stuff on, and rock and roll. There are threads around that show the process if you do a search for shifter bushings.

Time for a block test.

I've noticed a lot of online dealers (not just Subaru) have a minimum shipping rate. A lot of the time you have to spend about $75-100 to make it worth the extra shipping charge. Then you have to wait for them to get the part in, and then wait for them to ship it, then wait for the carrier to deliver it on top of that.

Well, you can try having the alternator tested. Though I kinda doubt that is the problem. If you can't manage to duplicate the issue consider it a fluke until it reappears and becomes a frequent problem.

This is what the FSM for 95 says. BELT TENSION ADJUSTER 1) Visually check oil seals for leaks, and rod ends for abnormal wear or scratches. If necessary, replace belt tension adjuster. CAUTION: Slight traces of oil at rod’s oil seal does not indicate a problem. 2) While holding tensioner with both hands, push the rod section against floor or wall ensuring the rod section will react as follows: (1) When applying a force of 147 N (15 kg, 33 lb), the rod section should not sink. (2) When applying a force of 147 to 490 N (15 to 50 kg, 33 to 110 lb), the rod section should maintain a projectionally acting force and should not sink within 8.5 seconds. Installation of belt tension adjuster Insert stopper pin 1.5 mm (0.059 in) diameter into place while pushing tension adjuster rod into body using a press. CAUTION: Do not allow press pressure to exceed 9,807 N (1,000 kg, 2,205 lb). Do not release press pressure until stopper pin is completely inserted. Push tension adjuster rod vertically. Press-in the push rod gradually taking three minutes or more. It shouldn't be easy to push in. It doesn't take much force, but it does need is constant force over a period of time. A vice is the easiest way, but you can probably use a large C clamp if you're careful.

66128SA040 # 25 http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s11/type_1/body_equipment_interior/instrument_panel/illustration_2/ $19 plus shipping. Probably cheaper overall at your local dealer. https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

Aren't the WRX springs short? (shorter than regular Impreza springs anyway, which should be about the same as Legacy springs) I thought I read that somewhere, could have been STI springs though.

As long as they're not bent I don't see why not. Just regrind the seat with a little valve compound. Chuck it in an electric drill and let 'er rip. I'd also be tempted to pull the heads and probably just replace them with good used ones. You can sell the old ones and get a few bucks back. Raise the engine with a jack and it's entirely doable in the car. Do some research on changing a head gasket to get the nitty gritty on what needs to be done.

I don't see any suggestions that the battery may be to blame, so I'll throw it out there. A dead/failing cell will still allow the battery to read 12V+ but will not be able to provide the amps needed to engage the starter. Honestly, I'd have the battery tested first, (start simple) but you can do it after poking around at the ignition switch if you want. Of course that doesn't explain why it wouldn't start when being jumped, but I've had plenty of fun jump starting cars at work (you'd be surprised how many brand new cars end up getting new batteries before they're ever even purchased). Proper connection is key when jump starting. I've done several where the car still would not turn over even with a fully charged booster pack, only to move the ground cable to a different location and then have it work.