Fairtax4me

You have to disconnect the sway bar from the control arm to get enough room to remove the lower balljoint. The sway bar also has to be unloaded before you disconnect it. Both front wheels have to be off the ground, otherwise the sway bar will snap up and take your fingers (or any other extremities or objects placed over the bar) with it.

That's called a pressure plate. It's a part of the clutch. The clutch disc is between that and the flywheel, which is the large heavy (about 25lbs so don't drop it on your foot) wheel with the teeth on the outside that the pressure plate is bolted to.

Could be because of the cams. Take the muffler off and see how it sounds. JK, but it might be due to a leak or might be an exhaust shield rattling around.

The signal wires for modern O2 sensors are shielded. O2 sensor output is so small (from 0.1 to 1.0V range) and changes so rapidly that any variation due to EMI or RFI can throw off the reading and cause erratic behavior or set the CEL.

Sounds like it might be the engine coolant temp sensor. You can check the resistance of the sensor at different temperatures to see if it's within the proper range. Some searching here should dig up the numbers you need to look for. Or if you have a spare sensor, or a junkyard close by, you can swap in a different sensor and see if it changes anything. These are also known for the Idle air control motor getting gummed up and causing idle trouble. But I think I'd try the ECT first.

Kinda wondering the same myself. I didn't think there was that much advantage to having dohc over sohc heads? Plus IIRC the dohc heads are all interference, so if the timing belt breaks you're SOL. (valves can hit valves)

I would doubt you have damaged it. If you had it would set a CEL for sure. Try unhooking the negative battery cable for 10 minutes or so and then try to start it. If you get a CEL after plugging the battery back in you can get it scanned and maybe find out what's causing the trouble. It should start and run with the MAF unplugged. It won't be happy but it should still run. I don't think you can. One side has a square flange that bolts to the air filter housing and the other is round and the air hose clamps around it.

I believe you can drive it indefinitely with the rear drive shaft removed. You might be well off to find a whole trans with the proper differential ratio. But you would still have to determine what your rear diff ratio is.

Probably just out of adjustment. I haven't looked into the way the hill brake works exactly yet, but it's a cable operated line lock solenoid. You hit the brakes, then push the clutch pedal down, this closes a valve inside the hill holder mechanism which keeps pressure in the rear brake lines. The adjustment is on the clutch release lever where the end of the hill holder cable feeds through the lever. It has a very small lock nut and a 11 or 12mm adjusting nut which can probably be turned by hand.

I need to get me one of those old Wagons and jack it up. I like the way that thing looks. Like the Outback too, but the Loyale is just a beast! Put a winch on one with some diamond plate steel bumpers and a set of roof lights I bet it could out-do every jacked up pickup or SUV in this town. Especially with some 31" super swampers under it, and a Camo paint job! As for the pain on the Outback, is that truck bed liner or actually paint?

That really sucks man. They'll get what's coming to them someday. Was this the main power wire for the head unit? Was it fused? If it was the accessory power wire then it probably cooked the fusible link for the main relay. The code 12 is starter switch circuit. That's just a wire from the starter switch to the ECU to tell it when the ignition switch is turned to the "start" position. It will not prevent the starter motor from turning. For some wiring diagrams, this site has some scans from 92MY Legacy FSM. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/tech.html Some good stuff here too. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Actually the second link probably has more info because it looks like it has the entire FSM for 92.

Besides the dealer I mean. Has anybody seen or know of people selling old copies of Subaru select monitor software discs? I made a fascinating discovery at work today at work as I was bored and needed something to do. I started cleaning up some of the random papers stacked all over one of the work benches in the rear part of the shop. Under one stack that had dates all the way back to 2007, I found a black plastic carry case that said Saab Diagnostic Monitor. Inside is one of these babys: http://www.cardiag.com/subaru-select-monitor-iii/ and a software CD labeled MY 2006 Saab 9-2X. Which some of you may know is just an Impreza Wagon with different bumpers and lights. We have a Select Monitor in the shop and it's never even been used. I see a golden opportunity for diagnostic bliss on the Legacy. And NO, I'm not gonna steal it. Rather, find the correct software for my particular vehicle to upload to a CF card which I can then pop into the unit when I want to use it. I did try to call the Subaru dealer to day to see if they had any old software discs laying around but couldn't get anybody on the phone. Gonna try them on Monday but in the meantime I figure I'll dig around the net to see what if anything I can find out there. I've known for some time that you can purchase these, but where to get the proper software is the question?

They go inside the car. Each line is separate coming from the ABS control module under the hood. I think the brake lines run down the passenger side. You pull up the sill plate then pull eh carpet back and there is a white plastic cover over the lines. They run back out through the floor somewhere right before the rear seat IIRC.

Thanks Olnick.

You should use MAF or Electronics cleaner. Seafoam will leave oil residue which will make it read incorrectly.

That can happen in a very short amount of time if the trans is working overtime trying to move the car if the wheels are going different speeds. Front diff spinning slower than the rear will not only wear out the transfer clutches, but also cause the output shaft of the trans (not the driveshaft, but the one between the actual transmission and transfer/extension housing) to spin faster than the front differential pinion shaft. This would put extra stress on the clutches of the transmission and might even cause them to slip after the transfer clutch pack locks up. If that's the case, I'd disconnect that rear shaft before driving the car any further. You need to find out for sure if the front and rear diff ratios are different. Even if you have to count the teeth on the ring gear through the drain hole in the case. You can mark the tires at the same point on each tire with a grease pen or bright colored paint and drive it straight forward 50 feet or so. If the marks don't line up after driving it the diff ratios are different. You should be able to find the part number on the transmission on the drivers side of the bellhousing somewhere near the starter. I think you can use that to determine the diff ratio but I'm not 100% sure.

Send them an email and they can find what you need. I wanna say the transfer clutches are the same but it might be one of those little things that changed during the OBD2 changeover. So the trans is clean, but the area all around it is greasy, and the rear end looks like it hasn't been touched. Sounds like a trans swap to me.

Sounds plausible. Unplug it and see what changes.

You should come over to the east coast. We're hiring experienced techs for Toyota, Honda, Dodge, Jeep. Business is slowly picking up in this area, that's the only reason I've been offered this position. But it's still up in the air. I won't know anything concrete until at least middle next week, probably more end of the week.

I fill the filter then screw it on, then pour in 4 full quarts plus what would make up a half quart from the first bottle that I opened to fill the filter with. If that makes sense. It then reads a hair above full, but mine leaks so I plan on it getting lower. Although the leaks have subsided quite a bit as I slowly replace this seal or that.

Straight from the FSM for 95. You'll have to lock the rear wheels somehow or devise a way to hold the pinion flange still while you loosen/tighten the lock nut since I doubt you have the special tool laying around in your garage. Removal of the flange requires a puller apparently. IT says to use an internal 3 jaw puller or slide hammer to remove the seal but I think it could be done with a seal puller.

I would normally say, Why the hell would you need AC in Canada? But I saw some of the current temps in southern Canada posted on weather.com during that huge heat wave last week, and it wasn't any cooler there than it was here in VA. Glad to hear you get it fixed.

Check all vacuum hoses for splits, cracks, loose connection. How old are the plugs and wires? Doesn't sound like the MAF but it won't hurt to spray it down with some MAF cleaner. I'm thinking more like HEGO or ECT sensor, but some more details may help narrow it down. What's the engine temp when this happens? Outside temp? Humidity? Does it do it all the time or just every now and then? Any check engine light? If not have you verified that the CEL turns on during the bulb test?

Porsches do that as well. But they'll play for like 5 seconds. You can get out of the car and close the door before it turns off. I've never figured out if they're designed that way or not. But I have seen several aftermarket head units play for a second or two after the ignition is switched off. Just the way they are. Unless you notice it playing for longer periods of time I'd just pass it off as normal.

That's great to know! Glad you got it all hooked up. Nice to know we have people willing to use their cars for guinea pigs every now and then. I didn't think the Imprezas were that much different than the older Legacys. This means we have more options for parts now.