Fairtax4me

The best fix for TPMS light, go two to three pounds over recommended pressure when warm. I've found through using many different types of pressure gauges, that no two gauges, even same type and brand, are calibrated exactly the same, even the digital ones. You can't buy a truly accurate gauge at the local parts store counter for $2.50. A decent gauge will be $25 or more, and a good one can be upwards of $50. Most of the cheaper gauges I've come across read too high. And the ones that are built in with the air chuck, never accurate ever in my experience. Half of them aren't even close. At least 4 psi off in most of the one's I've used. This is 4 psi off when checked against a digital TPMS service tool. It reads the output of the sensors directly, which are generally accurate to within one one hundredth of a pound. The result is your pressure is actually lower than what the gauge says it is. The TPMS still reads that the pressure is too low, so the light either doesn't go off, or only goes off for a few days then comes back. Putting the pressure even just two psi higher on the gauge than the recommended pressure is often times enough to cure this and the light will stay off for 2 months or more. When the light comes on is not the time to check pressures. Once the light comes on that means the TPMS has found the pressure to be more than ~25% too low. The percentage can vary from one manufacturer to another depending on how sensitive they want the system to be, but 25% is the federal mandated threshold. If we assume the threshold to be roughly 10% that's still 3psi low if the recommended pressure is 30psi. At 25% that's over 7psi difference between the actual pressure and the recommended. So take the tape off, get at least a decent pressure gauge, and keep the tires inflated properly rather than ignore the warning light. Low pressure in tires leads to a lot more than just poor fuel economy. As for the fuel needle. When you get it set to roughly where it's supposed to be put a dab of super glue on the end before you stick it on the shaft Then be sure to hold it still for about 30 seconds after placing it.

I assume you also tried bleeding the old fashioned way? $900 sounds about right for pads and rotors on all 4 plus 2.5 labor per axle at dealer prices. If that's a quote for just one axle I'd file a complaint with the BBB.

Check out Craigslist. If you're in Saluda VA, Richmond isn't too far to look for a parts car. You may even find a whole running car in better shape.

If it's just one put some MMO or a half quart or so of ATF in the oil and run it.

Cracked piston comes to mind. If the plug is oil fouled then you're gonna need to pull the cylinder head and take a peek.

Does it change if you put mild pressure on the clutch pedal? Just enough to depress it, but not quite disengage the clutch. If that makes it go away or worsen then it could be the release bearing, but the way you describe it I don't think that's it. Unfortunately, the only way to tell for sure which bearing it might be is to tear down the transmission and look. It's definitely one of the main shaft bearings if it's inside the trans and not the TOB. Replacement of the front bearing is pretty simple, the rear bearing requires an assortment of pullers and or a press, and some wood blocks in a vice to hold the shaft while you loosen/tighten the stake nut on the end. There are a few threads here on the board dealing with disassembly of the transmission if you choose to go the rebuild route.

Poor ground connection. In my truck I have the opposite problem. All the lights work, but they blink sllloooowwwwwwww. It's about 3 seconds per blink on a warm day. When it was cold I counted to 10 seconds once before the right blinker starter, then it was about 5 seconds after that.

No. If it's stuck that bad you know the answer. It's almost scary to think about it.

Actually no. Filler caps are no longer vented due to federal emissions requirements. Hydrocarbon emissions in the form of fuel tank vapors have to be captured and stored by the vehicles evaporative emissions system, so they can be burned during operation of the engine. Part of the EPAs Clean Air Act. IIRC it was part of the CAAA of 1977 that made evap systems mandatory for somewhere around 1980-ish model year and later vehicles.

If you use something handheld, most of the time you can whack it a few times with a BFH and the impact will get things to break loose easier than using a press, without placing an overly large amount of stress on the component that you want to keep.

Any signs of accident damage in there? Tape lines on the door edges? Dents on the inside but not on the outside? Not sure how you would adjust the "preload" of the window, but might it have something to do with the lower mounting point(s) of the regulator?

Well basically, if they can't fix it, you tell them you want another new one. Push the issue, don't let them tell you they can't replace the car. This isn't a big safety concern, but it's a problem that could mean other problems down the road.

Are you sure you have the disc installed the correct way?

Did you try tapping the bottom of the tank with a mallot when it wouldn't start? Get it warmed up, get it to quit and not start, then check the fuel pump harness for 12v before replacing the pump. What change will removing the filler cap make? This isn't an old Ford truck with a mechanical pump. These electric pumps produce ~50psi, I think the tank would implode at 50in Hg.

I'm gonna go the end link route. Did Subaru ever use the balljoint type end links? (I wanna say they do but only on the later models?) Those are almost impossible to find play in by hand unless they're completely shot. You pretty much have to remove them to find out if they're loose. Very hard to detect play in the rubber bushing type by hand if the bolts are just a bit loose. The car puts a lot more force on these than you will ever be able to. It may help to physically remove them and check the bushings and make sure the bolts are nice and tight. Beyond that... my next guess would be any ball type joint that looks like it has a split dust boot.

Glad you got your no-start sorted out. The lifters on these are loud as hell when they get no oil. Did you remove the oil pump during any of the work you did, and if so what did you re-seal it with? These have itty bitty tiny little passages for oil feed to the lifters, and they get clogged very easily, most commonly with bits of RTV silicone that have broken off from the oil pump seal. Use a long screwdriver (or a stethoscope if you have one) to listen to each valve cover and try to figure out which side is making the most noise. Remove the valve cover and check to see if the lifters are getting oil.

Heater circuit. Check the pins in the wire harness connector for 12V when the ignition is on. I think it's pin 3 is the 12v feed for the heater. I don't recall if the heater grounds back through the harness or not. I know there is an FSM for the 04 Legacy floating around the "interwebz" here somewhere. Some searching might dig it up and you can check out the diagnostic procedure in the OBD2 file of the Troubleshooting section.

It shouldn't unless the crankshaft is damaged, or has a varnish buildup that gets loosened up and damages the seal. Technically it is better off in a different position than the original seal. Any seal will almost always leave a groove where it has been riding against the shaft it is sealing. By placing the new seal in a slightly different location you essentially move to an untouched surface of the shaft and should get a better seal for a longer period of time. But most of the time the original location will suffice.

It's probably on the outside. Depending on the level of "dullness" you can either use a regular plastic polish to clean it up, or you might want to go buy a headlight restoration kit. 3M makes a good one. It has attachments for an electric drill that make it really easy and quick to use.

I would ask for a location of the leak but every leak on these ends up in one place, all over the steering rack. Possibilities... endless. Not really, but here's the laundry list: Oil separator plate, rear main crank seal, front crank seal, oil pump O ring, front cam seals, rear cam O ring, front cam O ring, valve cover gaskets, head gaskets... I think there are some others but my brain is fired after today.

Yeah I forgot to add that. But not one before the next, you have to throw them all in the same pile and mix them up then put them back just as randomly as you chose them. It's like a game and you get a cookie when you get them all back in the right place.

Probably clutch chatter. If it gets worse when it gets hot then it could just be a cheap clutch. If it seems kind of random then there may be damage to the clutch hub. The flywheel might be glazed from riding the clutch too much, creating a "slick" spot. Either way, the corrective action is... replace clutch.

I wanna say it's an M8 x 1.5 thread? Shouldn't be hard to find out, just start taking bolts from random places and try them.

Gary is 100% right, transmission type has no correlation with the cam/crank sensor trigger wheels. What he was saying is that the difference between an engine from an auto trans car, and one from a manual trans car is negligible. The difference is from the Phase1 to Phase 2 series engine. About the only difference you'll see engine wise between an auto or manual transmission car, might be the EGR valve, which some manual transmission cars do not have.

Yeah that AC compressor just completely sucks the life out of these things. You wanna know when it really sucks? When you're stuck in traffic for an hour at 11 at night, with 2+ hours of driving left to do to get home, in the rain, just barely moving in first gear. (last sunday, what fun!) Just idling along nice and smooth then bam that compressor kicks off and the car lurches and kicks and throws you around. Then it does it all over again when it comes back on. Try it sometime, I bet you'll love it as much as I did.