Fairtax4me

If the clip is loose you'll have to take it out. Leave it attached to the pump drive shaft if it's still attached. I've never done one but I hear you have to put a little push into it to get the last part seated and get that clip to pop into it's place in the torque converter. It might help if you pull the whole thing out. Some searching on the board here might dig up a writeup on how to get it seated properly.

No, I was tired and turned away for a few seconds, then forgot to finish what I was typing before I hit post. But yes, what I was about to say was to the point of there are umpteen reasons for the AC not to work. Some basic checks can be done, prior to blaming the compressor itself, that will help determine why it stopped working, (IF it really stopped working), and what can be done to repair it. Who knows the belt may have just broken and the person didn't feel like replacing it. Check the compressor to see if it moves freely first. If it does throw a belt on it and fire it up. If the compressor doesn't engage, it may need a recharge or just something dumb like a relay or switch.

There is a circlip that goes inside of there somewhere. It holds the torque converter to the oil pump drive shaft. The pump shaft is a cylindrical shaft that the input shaft runs through the middle of. You need to make sure that clip hasn't fallen off. It might help to pull that shaft out of the trans and attach it to the torque converter before you install it.

1. There are two belts, and each must be adjusted manually. If done properly you won't have to touch it for 20k miles until it's time to replace it. 2. You can spin the clutch hub on the front of the compressor, (not the pulley, the part with the three bars going across it) if it spins easily the compressor is probably OK but it's impossible to say until you can hear it run. You should also make sure the pulley spins freely. Some dragging noise will be heard because of the tolerance between the clutch and pulley, and is normal. If the pulley does not spin freely o does not spin without also spinning the compressor hub then the compressor will likely need to be replaced. 3. R134A was mandated for all vehicles sold in the US in 1994, so your ac system is designed to use it. There are plenty of reasons why the AC system

The crazy thing is, that's a drop in the bucket compared to what some techs have spent during their careers. We used to have a tech who has been in the business for close to 30 years. Largest selection of tools I have ever seen, and about half of them were specialty type tools that he might have used a half dozen times EVER. I asked him once, and between the tool boxes (he had 3 at the shop, 2 old ones at home) all the tools and equipment he had, he estimated he'd spent over 200k. It doesn't surprise me at all to hear about techs spending 30 - 40k on tools in their first few years. Especially these days... Snap-On has a tool box. It's 12 feet long, has 35 drawers, and costs 20k just by itself. Why you'd ever need it... beyond me, but I'm sure someone has bought one. And then there's the TUV. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=storage&item_ID=79151&group_ID=20686&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog :eek:

That black one. That's the seal in question. That's the only seal, and the only way for transmission fluid to get out through that area.

Which is why you use anaerobic, because then it doesn't matter if any "splooge" comes out into the pump chamber. It won't dry. I just took the front cover plate off of a transmission that had been sealed with Anaerobic. 25 years and the extra that got squeezed out STILL was not dried. It was tacky and malleable like it had just come out of the tube.

You must have cut the input seal on the transmission when you were messing with the TC. You get to pull it all apart again now to replace the seal. :-\

Speed sensor and neutral switch are mounted to the drivers side of the transmission. The wires run up to meet the main engine harness on top of the right (passenger) side of the bellhousing. You've never heard of a soldering iron? Solder: Any of various fusible alloys, usually tin and lead, used to join metallic parts. To solder: To unite or repair (parts, for example) with solder.

Seems to me I remember the knock sensor wire being shielded... Might not have been but either way if it was cut it needs to be soldered back together. Subarus are very picky about their knock sensors. Most other cars don't give a damn, Subarus will hardly run in some cases with a bad knock sensor. VSS and Neutral switch... They're right next to each other, and probably have the same plug. Make sure you didn't mix them up. Plug color should match the connector.

Seafoam! That's how it looks anyway.

That's just plain ridiculous. And it's also burning oil now?

You can lock the shaft in a vise between two blocks of wood. (credit for that idea goes to Lostinthe202) Knock out the staked sections of the nut with a punch and remove it with a breaker bar and a 35mm socket I think it was. The 5th gear will need to be pulled off, then you can pull the bearing off with a large 2 or 3 jaw puller.

There are in fact times when I have thought "I need a shorter wrench". They are few and far between, but it has happened. But yes I will be looking for extra long wrench sets primarily. I guess I've never put enough into a crescent wrench to see it flex, but that is an interesting observation.

That would certainly cause a loss of braking power. It can also damage the calipers if left that way so new pads are definitely the way to go. As Gary already said a whole new caliper hardware kit would be a good investment.

I have noticed that with some of my cheap wrenches vs the nicer wrenches the guys in the shop have. The nicer ones always seem to be a more exact fit, and don't tend to slip as often. (probably because of the fit) And they have a nicer "ring" to them if you drop one. I did find out today we DO have a Snap On rep now. So I'll have at least two choices for accounts if I decide to go that route.

Is it more apparent when the car is moving faster or slower? Have you checked all fluid levels recently?

A TOB generally gets louder when the clutch is released because it will start to rattle around. A bad pilot bearing would make noise with the clutch disengaged (pedal depressed) but would go away entirely once the pedal was released. Loud trans while coasting or decelerating in gear might be bad counter shaft, pinion shaft, or differential bearings. Could also be a worn center differential bearing. I suppose we can lump the input shaft main bearing in there too just because they have a habit of chewing themselves up in these cars. But check the fluid first. Might need a change. Get a sample of the first fluid that comes out in a clean white or clear container to check it for metallic bits.

What year, engine, and transmission, and how many miles on the car? Can you replicate the sound by revving the engine in park or neutral?

That's exactly how the fluid looked in the Toyo Kogyo I just got for my Ranger. The input shaft bearing on it is shot, like 3/16" play at the end of the shaft. You definitely have a worn out bearing in the that one. The one in question is about $50 IIRC from a Subaru dealer. I had bought one for my 96 because I've got some noise under acceleration, but I found the main bearing to be tight and rolled freely. I took it back, but I wish I had written down the part number and maker of the bearing. Lots of times you can find the same bearings elsewhere with a lower price tag than the dealer. If you have the time you can tear it down and check all the part numbers on the input and output shafts and probably get all new bearings for half what a dealer would charge if you know where to look. But they are all available from Subaru if you don't want to mess with sourcing them on your own. This is a good thread for disassembly. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90182& There are some others floating around. I know a member here Lostinthe202 has done the bearing replacement successfully. You can probably send him a PM asking for specifics. I thought he had a thread about it somewhere but I can't seem to find it.

Not sure on the soobs, but most on manual transfer cases the shift lever has a detent that keeps it from being accidentally pushed in or out of 4wd. Most of the time this is only for the LOW range setting, but occasionally I've seen it used for going between 2wd and 4wd. You simply push it to one side or the other which allows you to then push/pull the lever to the setting you desire. I agree with Nipper on torque bind. Try getting the car on gravel or simply jacking up one wheel (probably a rear wheel if this is one of those with the parking brake on the front wheels) as already said, and that should relieve the tension on the axles and drivetrain so you can move the shift lever out of 4wd.

Most of the trunk mount racks are adjustable to compensate for different body styles. Those should work fine. The tow hitch mount racks are nice, but you need a hitch first. And they're not cheap either.

You could grab a used one from a picknpull. Or it might be enough to unplug the wire and remove the sensor to make sure the ground surface and wire connection are clean.

When you get the flex plate to converter bolts loose pry the converter towards the transmission with a screw driver or pry bar. It will slide back a good 1/4" - 3/8" away from the flex plate and the pilot in the center should separate so the converter stays right where you leave it. Be sure to put a jack under the trans to hold it up at a slight angle. This will make re joining the two easier when you put it back in, and will help prevent the TC from sliding forward. You can also bolt an angled box end wrench to the bellhousing with the opposite end somewhere near the center of the TC to hold it.

Suppose this "valve problem" isn't a valve inside the engine? Might it be an EGR or BPT valve issue? IAC valve problem? Or it might not be a valve issue at all. Might be that he's referring to the P0420 problem, which affects nearly every Subaru. That's about the only one I know of that you can replace the everything perceivably related to the problem and not get it right. All I can really say though, is my 96 is running just fine with ~175,000 miles on it.