Fairtax4me

First thing that comes to mind is loose/corroded battery terminals. Make sure they're clean and tight. See if you can replicate it by loading the electrical system. Turn on everything you can that draws power with the engine running and hit the brakes a few times. Turn lights on and off let the engine warm up and the radiator fans turn on (run the AC if it works) and see if it happens again. You're looking for it to coincide with a large load being applied to the system when it is already under load, such as when fans or lights turn on.

The ECTS will cause the plugs to foul (too much fuel) and will result in the P030X misfire codes. Definitely get that changed and put some new plugs in it. The staring issue sounds like the contacts inside the starter solenoid. This is a common problem and can be easily remedied by a DIYer with a few basic tools. There are write ups here on the site about how to remove and replace the contacts, and they can usually be bought for less than $15. Of course, I can't seem to find any info about the starters to post right now. I'm sure someone else will in short order. Another idea is corrosion on the battery posts/terminals or a loose connection on the battery or starter. It could also be a poor engine ground cable connection. Standard check for cleanliness and tightness applies here.

I don't think the newer ones are viscous couplers anymore. I'm not sure that there is a solenoid or control unit for the center diff though. I believe it's a simple clutch and spring setup like a typical limited slip differential uses. It is probably sealed from the rest of the transmission like the viscous unit. Reason why, with the old viscous units you could buy the viscous coupler separate from the rest of the differential and replace it by disassembling the unit. The new ones are one piece and are unserviceable.

I don't think the intake has anything to do with this. Have you had the chance to check power on the two connectors Cougar mentioned?

I'm also wondering why they felt the need to replace the whole caliper over one bolt. A lot of dealers will do a multi point inspection free of charge with an oil change or regular service (so they can get more money by finding things that are "wrong" with the car) but a caliper bolt is like $3 and takes all of 2 minutes to install, including removing the wheel, which doesn't even have to be done to get access to the caliper bolts if the car is on a lift.

Ahh, the personal loan route. That does help for sure. I think I would have just paid for it outright, but you do what you please. Car looks like a great find. Hopefully it will serve you well for many years to come.

Hooray for AC! Glad you got it fixed.

Agreed. You can get better after market speakers for less money than the Subaru upgrades.

You got a loan on a 15 year old car? Albeit, it looks to be in very nice condition... I'm just wondering what bank gives out auto loans for a car that old?

Which code is returning? P0130? The ECU must not be seeing the signal it wants to see from the sensor. Is this the second replacement sensor? What brand is it?

Without the actual code we can't tell you anything about the cause. However... often times if the CEL comes on immediately after filling up, it's because the gas cap is loose. So be sure to check that and make sure it is tight. Then go get that code scanned and post it here and we can help with further diagnosis.

Is this a problem that has come about recently? It will become progressively more difficult for the car to roll forward on it's own as the wheels are turned. Do you have to give it gas to keep the engine from stalling?

You shouldn't be leaking ATF as the front diff is sealed from the transmission. It's supposed to be 80w90 gear oil. If it's coming out red someone has added the wrong fluid to the differential at some point. What you need is probably called a differential oil seal or diff axle seal at a local parts store. Or a wheel seal, like gary said: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Drivetrain&fromType=parts&fromString=search&parentId=12-0&currentPage=1&filterByKeyWord=wheel+seal&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=11200256&categoryNValue=11299999&fromWhere=&itemId=256-0&displayName=Wheel+Seal+-+Front&searchText=wheel+seal

No cruise either? Steering wheel mounted controls... hmmm If the SRS light isn't on then the airbag probably does work. The airbag module looks for resistance on the circuit each time the ignition is turned on. If it doesn't see the reading it is looking for it will sense the break and set a code then turn on the light to tell you there is a problem. So what does this one look like inside? Yeah new ones of that style usually come with a lock tab to hold it in place until you install it. And if you have the wheel off center by a turn you can screw up the brand new one just by turning out of the driveway. Bad way to spend an afternoon and $200+.

Well it does need a fair amount of torque to keep it from loosening up later on. If the wrench is big enough to fit the flats of the ball joint you should be able to tighten it sufficiently. You can always use a cheater pipe too if you need some extra leverage. The problem is always that when it starts to tighten up, the flats are not in a position that can be reached by a regular open end wrench. That's where the channel locks or pipe wrench comes in handy.

Did you try turning the steering wheel to move the end into a more easily accessible position?

WHY they don't have ANY information about what size the damn thing is on their website... beyond me. Anyway. After digging around, I've come to the conclusion that it's the equivalent size of a single DIN head unit. So there should be mounting holes in the side of the unit that will match right up to what's on the mounting bracket for the stock head unit in your car. (hopefully they thought that far ahead) You can probably even use the same screws. It will fit right into your dash, no modification required. If you have the double din factory cd player you'll need a pocket kit like this one... http://www.amazon.com/Metra-98-8999-1991-2009-Mitsubishi-Vehicles/dp/B0007WW69O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1275276573&sr=1-1 Subaru has one that probably fits better (it's made to fit the car). Not sure what the cost on it would be, maybe $20. The hard part would be wiring. It appears that they don't make wiring adapter kits for the 8400, so you'll have to connect all the wires your self... in the dash. Or pay a bunch of money for an installer to do it.

Yup. It's called a monkey wrench. Seriously a pair of channel locks or a pipe wrench is easiest way if the rack is still on the car.

Can't say for sure what it comes with. But any wires that come out of the unit should be on the new one. Generally they're soldered to a PCB that has a ribbon tape that warps around inside the unit. It's not really a spring, nor a clock. After doing some digging... I think I'd get a junkyard unit if I were you.

The STI control arms are aluminum aren't they? That part is separate according to the catalog on opposedforces.com. 20216FA000 Boss transverse link. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_5/suspension_and_axle/front_suspension/illustration_1/ Lucky for you it lists for about $15. Unlucky for you, probably no dealer in the country will have one in stock. But there's always a chance.

Factory Service Manual. I found one for you. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_&_Electrical)/ Under section 2-7 Fuel injection system click on troubleshooting and it will jump you to the proper section of the manual. Scroll down to page 62 for diagnostic steps for code 12.

Get a block test / combustion gas test done. That will tell you if there are exhaust gases in the radiator, a solid indicator of a bad HG.

There better be a relay. Check your owners manual for relay locations. Probably one o the ones in the main fuse/relay box under the hood. How do you figure that the bulbs "look" good? Have you replaced one or both of them with known good bulbs?

Might be in limp mode with the O2 sensor unplugged. I suppose you could replace it but I'd recommend testing it first. There is a wire for the ECU that breaks off somewhere along the line from the starter solenoid wire that comes from the inhibitor switch (the small wire that trips the solenoid). I would assume that it uses this wire to determine when the starter motor is engaged, and changes something... Maybe somebody who knows what it's supposed to do for sure will splain it fer us. I worked on a BMW once that had a bad starter, I roll started it and it ran like crap. I thought a fuel injector was stuck wide open. But with the new starter on it, it ran perfect. Figured out later on that it had a similar type of circuit. Try to dig up an FSM for your year and find out exactly which pin and what color wire it is so you can check it for 12v when the ignition switch is turned to start. It may even come right from the connector on the starter solenoid. edit: good lord, I must be tired...

I've used Rockauto a number of times and have always been completely satisfied. Low prices, shipping can be a bear if you order a lot of stuff (some parts coming from different warehouses they charge shipping for each shipment) but most of the time it's still cheaper and better parts than what you get at the local Autozone or whatever, and they ship out fast. Every now and then you find closeout deals on some parts. I got a Beck Arnley clutch kit for my truck, normally a $150 kit, for $50 with shipping.