Fairtax4me

They look like rump roast. But I think that about a lot of the after market wheels people put on their cars. Especially when the wheels are straight black. Here's the thing. Why do you care what anybody else thinks about your wheels? Put what you like on the car, and enjoy it. This is the United States , you (for now at least) have that freedom.

It started to strip as you were removing it? What made you think that? I had a spark plug on my Ranger that worked its way loose once and eventually exhaust started to blow by the seat of the plug. After about two weeks of a cold start misfire it went away, only to come back about a month later as a dead miss. Pulled all the plugs and found one very difficult to remove compared to the rest, it was covered in carbon and part of the seat and threads were literally blown out. But a brand new one threaded into the head no problem, so a new plug and away I went.

Was this a factory option? I would imagine the FSM would have some info about it if it were available from the factory. If it's an after market or dealer add on then it could be anywhere. But yes, generally they are under the dash some place. Look for something that looks out of place, or has wiring that is separate the factory harness.

Right, they have a flexplate, like every other automatic transmission car out there. But what you're saying is that the ring gear is mounted to the torque converter, rather than to the flexplate correct?

I liked this one in black. Actually found a few used ones pretty cheap on Ebay Australia but freight to get it... $$$$$$ :-\

Good reason to lock your doors. Hopefully you'll find the oil filter full and no damage to the crank/rods. Might want to invest in a new oil pump if you decide to rebuild this one though.

Have never heard of or seen a car that has the starter ring gear on the torque converter but I suppose it works just as good as anywhere else. If you keep driving it eventually the flexplate will break and you'll have your answer. About the only way to get a visual check of the flexplate without pulling the engine or trans is to use a scope such as a Borescope stuck down into the bell housing to try and find the crack. So if you want to spend $1500 or so on a special tool, you can MAYBE do it without pulling the engine.

Then it's probably perfectly normal and has no ill effect whatsoever.

I looked into this kind of this myself not long ago. I decided it wasn't worth the ~ $1000 or more to get one shipped around the world from Australia which is where pretty much all of them are made. I don't think Subaru ever offered a factory bullbar for the Legacy (I may be wrong though, I did look and couldn't find any info about factory options for this) although there was a package for the Impreza that had one, called Gravel Express. Only available to the JDM of course. :-\ I'd buy one in a heartbeat if they had them here. East Coast Bullbars makes a few. ECB.com.au And there was another big one that I forget the name of, but I think they only made stuff for the newer models. Here it is http://www.subaxtreme.com.au/ They make some sharp bumper kits. But they are quite pricey.

You think these are bad go work on an early 90's Honda or Toyota. Vacuum hoses out the wazoo! It would help to know the actual code that is being set. Most EGR related codes are two trip fault codes which means that you have to make two consecutive drive cycles with the fault present before the computer sets the code. Usually circuit codes are immediate upon starting. The EGR solenoid valve is probably the one you are talking about, it is the only one in the vicinity of the BPT. It controls vacuum ON/OFF to the EGR solenoid. It can be tested with a multimeter but I'll have to look up how later on. It's just a resistance check, but I don;t know the values off hand. You can test the connector plug for continuity to ground to rule out grounding issue. (will prevent the solenoid from operating properly) On a side note... I didn't know MSD made ignition coils for these cars. I'll have to look into those a bit.

First make sure you have the signal wires spliced into the correct wires in the harness. RH signal lamp power should be White/Red. LH signal lamp power is Light green/White. And double check ground connections for the tail lights as well as the ground connection for the trailer harness.

I'm pretty sure you only have 2 O2 sensors, but regardless, just because you can't hear it doesn't mean there might not be a small leak in the exhaust. The pop that you hear under the car may even be coming from the area of the leak if there is one. Have a friend cram a rag into the tail pipe while you listen around under the car for a possible leak. It will become very evident if there is a leak because all of the exhaust will try to come out of that one tiny hole. Another option is that for some reason or other the engine is running rich and excessive fuel in the cylinders is not being burned completely. The unburned fuel combined with decreased pressure in the exhaust system when the throttle closes mixed with a bit of heat creates an expansion of the gases causing them to ignite. So you could also be looking at a fuel or air delivery problem. But either way the little Poof backfires aren't generally harmful. If you get a shotgun bang out the tail pipe then you can start to worry. How long has it been doing this?

Hmmm... I just noticed these are circuit codes. (must've had a brain fart before) You might want to check the wire harness connector(s) for those two parts and make sure there is no corrosion in them. Sometimes all they need is to be unplugged ans plugged back in a few times. If you find them looking nasty spray them with contact cleaner and load them up with dielectric grease before you plug them back in. If that doesn't help you might want to find out which connectors in the body harness the wiring for those passes through and check those as well.

You might have an exhaust leak. Fresh air getting into the exhaust system will create a lean enough condition for any left over fuel to ignite spontaneously. Have you done any maintenance to the car recently?

You put it all together and then turn the camshaft to the proper position afterwards. The sprocket will only go on one way so it's not possible to install it wrong unless you modify it. Be sure to coat the camshaft and rockers in assembly grease before you install them.

Some weird ju ju goin on there. High input would probably mean the voltage signal the ECU is receiving is higher than it thinks it should be. Check resistance of the sensor and check reference voltage at the connector.

Go for 30 lbs it'll do it no prob.

How bout a telescoping magnet?

But do YOU think they're too low? Fog lights are supposed to be aimed low. Part of the idea is that the light goes UNDER the fog to help illuminate the road, rather than scattering around in the fog (like headlights do). They are not supposed to be aimed any further than the low beam headlights, as a matter of fact they are supposed to be aimed closer than the headlights to help concentrate more light in front of the car (so you can see the road), rather then spreading it out farther down the road where it doesn't do you any good because you can't see that far through the fog anyway. Aiming them up defeats the purpose of having them in the first place, and blinds oncoming drivers making an already hazardous situation even more dangerous for you, as well as the other driver.

Your gonna have fun with that one. Actually it may not be so bad. The trim panel should come off with one or two screws and a tug in the proper direction. The switch unplugs and a couple screws to get it off of the trim panel. A lot of these there is nothing wrong with the switch itself, just the cover pops off. Usually it can be put back on with a dab of super glue.

The hub in the center is directly connected to the main shaft on the compressor. The pulley that the belt rides on will spin freely if the clutch is disengaged, but if the compressor is locked or damaged the hub will not. It works just like the pressure plate on a flywheel. The only difference is the clutch, which is normally disengaged, is engaged electro-magnetically when the AC or defrost is switched on. It pulls the hub in towards the compressor locking down on the pulley.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/

I know several people who have had this type of problem with brakes. It generally tends to start happening about 6 months to a year after pad replacement. I've never been able to definitively pint this problem down, but I believe it has to do with the way the rotors wear. The pad doesn't usually cover the entire machined surface of the rotor, there will usually be about 1/8th inch of room on either side of the pad where the rotor doesn't wear at all. The area under the pad wears down, leaving a ridge on either side of it. This ridge, since it never gets cleaned off by the pad, also rusts badly, and eventually starts to wear the inner and outer edges (in relation to the hub) of the pads. This traps heat in the pads, and makes them "chatter" as the car comes to a stop. It usually gets worse as the brakes get hot. It also seems to be worse if you use cheap pads. When you look at the rotors, if there is a ridge around the outer edge, take them to a machine shop and have them turned. Or just replace them if you want, but generally it's 10 - 15 bucks each to have a rotor turned and new rotors cost $30 or more a piece.

I'll second the AC compressor problem. It's possible the compressor is locked up. But I think the plug you are pointing to is for the rotation sensor on the compressor. You can turn the compressor by hand. With the engine off grab the hub on the very front of the compressor (with the 3 bars crossing it) and spin it with your hand. It should spin easily. If it is difficult to move or doesn't move at all then it's damaged internally or the bearings are locked up. You could be having more alternator trouble, or it could be poor connections due to corrosion. There could also be corrosion inside the cables (under the insulation) which will impede the flow of electricity. The plug in the second picture I'm not sure about. But are you sure you really want to plug it in? Just kidding. There is bound to be a link on the board here somewhere for a service manual for your car. You can look at the wire harness connector location diagram and find out what 4 plug connectors there are in that area and what they're for.

No. The spring just holds the stick in the center position of it's travel. It's just enough resistance on the stick to keep it from flopping all over the place while cornering, and it also helps make it a bit easier to find 3rd and 4th gear when shifting. It has no effect on the internals of the transmission. When you are driving around, do you ever rest your hand on the shift lever? A lot of people have e tendency to do this, and while it seems harmless, it actually causes the shift forks to wear because they are constantly under pressure. It's not a lot, but it is just enough to make the bushings on the fork contact the synchro hub and wear them down. This will eventually prevent the hub from fully engaging, causing the "gear" to pop out when it is put under load. Bet you can't guess which gear this happens with the most often?