Fairtax4me

Plenty of people run these with no timing covers. I agree it's not a good idea to have a metal sleeve molded into the plastic, but the other option is to have the screw go directly into the plastic, and that would get stripped the first time someone removed the cover. If you want to keep the covers, a coupe large Zip ties should do the trick to keep them in place. Otherwise, ditch them and ride on. The missing vacuum hose on your EJ22 I believe is for the evap purge control solenoid which should be under the passenger intake runners. There is a steel line under the intake that the evap solenoid hooks to. Then a hose from the evap solenoid to the top of the intake manifold The MAP sensor and switching solenoid vacuum comes from a line from the back side of the rear intake runner on the passenger side. It goes to a T, from the T one hose goes to the fuel pressure regulator. The other hose goes to the Map sensor on the strut tower. You should be able to just take the hose that's in your car and hook it up on the 22. Here are some pics for reference. Took these with my camera phone so the quality is not the best. This is the T for the FPR and MAP sensor vacuum hoses. This is the vacuum hose routing diagram for the EJ22. Not very legible... I'll try to get a better pic tomorrow in the daylight.

Some whiskey should do the trick... or at least... You won't notice it as much anymore... or anything else for that matter. Seriously though... There is a product called Ozium that works pretty well for removing smoke smells. My boss is a smoker, and he smokes in the Demo cars he drives. It was always evident that he had been smoking in the cars when it was time for a new one, and sometimes it wouldn't come out completely. I talked him into getting a can of Ozium to keep in the glove box, and told him to put a shot of it in the car whenever he got out of it after he had been smoking. That was about 2 years ago, when the owner of the company decided to buy company cars rather than use demos anymore. After two years and 35k+ miles in his current car, a spray of Ozium each day and you can't even tell it has ever been smoked in. There's really only so much you can do with a car that was heavily smoked in. The tar and nicotine get into every nook and cranny in the car, in the seats, everything under the dash, in the headliner, glove box, console, the rear shelf, anything fabric or porous will soak it up like a sponge. To get rid of it completely you would have to remove everything from the interior (and I mean EVERYTHING), wash it all down front back inside and out and then hope for the best. Your next best option is to get it Ionized by a local detail shop (basically an Ozone treatment). There are studies that say it doesn't work, some that say it does work, and some that say it only works some percentage of the time. I believe Ionizing does work, but only if the car hasn't been closed up with smoke trapped inside all the time. Try the Ozium first. It comes in a small white and blue can, and costs about 5 or 6 bucks, but it's cheaper than an Ionizer treatment.

Go find one (or three) in a U-pull-it junkyard. I think the place I go to charges like $15 for an ignition module.

Cam cap O rings. One goes on the rear of the passenger side cylinder head at the back of the cam, likes to leak like a sieve if it goes bad and can be mistaken for a bad VCG. The other goes at the front of the drivers side cylinder head between the head and the camshaft end support. Subaru PN 806946030 Number 3 in the diagram. Since you'll have the engine out, you'll have easy access to the camshaft end plug on the read of the drivers side head. Those can leak as well and only cost a few $. Usually are in stock at the dealer. It's number 6 in the diagram. PN 807045040

Here's a check you can do... Drive down the street get up to a safe speed where the noise is most prevalent. Car in gear, press in the clutch and turn the engine off. (And for god's sake DO NOT take the key out, just turn it back one click) Now move the shifter in and out of different gears (clutch in the whole time) while the car is rolling to see if the noise is there in any one or multiple gears or if it stays gone. The gears will engage the shafts and make them start spinning because the driveline is moving. If it's an input shaft bearing you should hear the noise. If not, you won't hear anything because it's the TOB which isn't moving because the engine is off. The TOB only spins when the pressure plate spins, pressure plate is connected to the flywheel, flywheel is connected to the crankshaft. No crankshaft rotation = no TOB rotation. Make sense?

Can you get it out of gear once the engine is turned off? If you can't the transmission might be fudged. It would be worth a shot to have a look at the linkage and make sure none of the bolts are falling out and have gotten jammed against the transmission case or heat shield.

What you need is some HHS-2000 made by Wurth. It's spray on grease that soaks into tight spaces (can almost be used as a penetrant (is that a word? )) then sets into a high temp high tack waterproof grease that is perfect for hinges, latches, cables, and light to moderate load bearings. I put it on the rollers of my buddies engine crane which has always been a PITA to move, now the thing will try to roll away on it's own if there's no load on it.

Yes, there are threads here on the board about it. Look at the bottom of this page there are links to threads about retrieving codes. OBD1 readers do exist, the problem is a lot of cars had proprietary plugs so one scanner will work for a Ford, but not a Chevy, Honda, Subaru, etc.

That's the axle nut, you don't need to even think about touching that to get the rotors off. Remove the brake caliper, then remove the bracket by removing the two large bolts that hold it to the back of the knuckle. Not suer if these have hold screws on eh rotors or not, but if it has them there will be one or two #3 phillips head screws that need to be removed, then give a good whack on the back side of the rotor with a big hammer a few times. Give the rotor a spin 180 degrees and repeat if it doesn't pop loose on the first try.

The guy's got 13,000+ posts on this board, give him some credit!

Tire noise can be there one minute and go away the next. Has to do with sound cancellation. As the tread blocks wear they resonate differently than when they were brand new. And as the tires spin the noise created by one will mix with noise created by the others and certain frequencies can either be magnified or completely cancelled out.

Check the pitch mount (dogbone) that goes from the bell housing to the firewall. It could also be something like a heat shield on the exhaust.

It's labeled as a Block Test Kit at Napa. I think it costs something like $45-50 now though. I swear it used to be less than half that. I think Autozone carries a kit as well but you have to buy the fluid separate. The one at Napa comes with everything.

And it was making the sound before you put the new tires on it?

Seems to me like it would be easier to get one of those ones that goes in the lower radiator hose. If you're dead set on the screw in type, it's 5 bolts to lower the manifold for extra room, and about $6 for two new gaskets.

E) Swap in a dime a dozen good for 300k+ miles with no head gasket trouble used 2.2 engine. I pick that one. Search the board here, that's a very well covered topic because people do it ALL the time.

Might just be the tires. Got another set of wheels you can throw on it for a day?

I see that everywhere so there must be some truth to it, but my 96 is running strong on the CarQuest plug wires that came on it when I bought it. Never have had any trouble with misfires except the one time I got the plug wells full of water while washing the engine down. And at that, all 4 were nearly full of water, only one was misfiring. Maybe I got the lucky set?

You might have better luck getting the ball joint out of the knuckle. Remove the pinch bolt and soak it with PB blaster. If the knuckle is still attached to the strut then you can hammer on the control arm and it should pop loose.

Looks about like mine did. I did the wet sand & polish method. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102339&highlight=Headlight+cleaning Then for an extra kick I put a set of Silverstar bulbs in. If you put a coat of wax or plastic cleaner/polish them whenever you wax the car it will help keep them clear.

You're looking for this little black thing on the left. Only about 2" x 2" x 1/4". Dead center of the engine bay mounted to the dogbone mount bracket on the firewall. I put a timing light on mine when it was running and got no strobe. Must have had a bad connection?

You have to have a shop press to get the bearing assembly out/in. And at that you need a Subaru tool to hold the knuckle assembly a certain way while the bearing is being pressed out or the knuckle can be deformed and damaged. I'd suggest taking it to a Subaru dealer or competent independent Subaru shop to have them press the old one out and the new one in. Beyond that... pretty straight forward.

Here's a whole thread about knock sensor pics, plus info about how they work. http://www.scoobymods.com/knock-sensor-location-info-t4039.html?t=4039&highlight=knock+sensor

Second the ignitor. If you know the problem is spark related that's the only thing you haven't changed, and that's what controls spark.

Lower: 11. Uppers: 20,24 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_2/ Then there is another link pictured here... Number 9. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_1/ Dunno why they couldn't combine those two pictures and have it all in one place. That's a different setup than the older legacy. I believe the adjustment would be made on either Number 9 in the second diagram, or number 11 in the first. Or maybe you can adjust both, or even all three on that one I can't tell from looking at the diagrams.