soobiefreak85

Sounds like a fuel pump if you tapped on it and it started, easy fix. But first check for spark, when it won't start. Pull a plug, connect wire, and hold it against the block with a good insulated plyers, have someone crank, you should see blue spark. If you get spark, pull off the feeding fuel line and put it in bucket...have someone turn the key to "on" should have a nice strong flow. When it cranks, but doesn't start its either spark or fuel. If you get both, then I would rebuild and flush out the carb, its prob gunned up. Good luck. Wes

I ran into the same issue, getting the wrong parts all the time for my 87 ea81. Once I started looking them as 84, all good. I guess the part stores computer assume, 87 must all have an ea82. Wes

Are you selling the unwanted parts?

I plan on going with a new weber anyway, when I get the money. Just about everything is new anyway, I want to continue down that path. I agree, I dont have no where near the experience tinkering with carbs as many folks on here...that is why I was asking for help. I find it insulting that you thought I just popped the hood and just started slicing everything I could find and threw it in trash. That was not the case. It was my understanding that hitachi's will run just fine without ALL the emissions stuff, I was misinformed. MOST of it really isnt needed at all (i.e. AAV and charcoal canister)...that is commonly not needed with any car. After I eliminated MOST, it runs better actually. The issue I had was mostly in the adjustment screw that took time and patience for me to get adjusted right. I was not used to messing with something so long, as most all of my experience is in fuel injection. I appreciate your experience and advise, however, assuming we (Spazomatic and I) are just idiots and insulting us was not appropriate. We all have different levels of education and experience in different areas, together we all help each other keep our beloved subies on the road. Wes

Hey, Start off with getting the tires rebalanced. Typically if they are out of balance in the rear, the seat will vibrate. Steering wheel will vibrate if the front wheels are out of balance. Sounds like they all are out of balance. That wont always fix the problem if the tires are in bad shape. Check fluids in the rear diff and trans, change if necessary. Start there, before looking into anything else. Wes

Hey man, Had the same problem with my 87 hatch. Battery was good, wires and fuses were good. After some tests, I replaced the alternator. The internal voltage regulator was the cause, I believe. I believe 84 was the last of the external voltage regulator. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Check your grounds! The block, body...everywhere! I have had several issues with grounds on mine. It doesn't hurt to have extra wires tracing to the body to ensure the grounds are well established if they are in question. Throw a meter on the battery while it is running, as you accelerate the voltage should increase. If not, there is something at fault. If fuses are good and no wires are shorting, then what else could it be? I would replace the alternator. Good luck bro. Wes

I concur with Shawn. Very easy. 15-20 mins tops.

It is my understanding that the whole cross member has to be fabricated for the 5-speed. Jerry (bratsrus1) does them for like $100. The only other change is the driveline length.

This is great info, thank you. I do not have an O2 sensor. I did plug off the charcoal canister line off the carb and hard line that returns to the tank near the brake booster. I will unplug them tomorrow and maybe restrict the one off the carb if needed, like you had to do. I think you are talking about a different carb, none of my vac lines on the carb are pointing towards the pass side, most are pointing towards drivers side. Mine is an 1987 hatchback, ea81. I got the fuel lines hooked up right, just working with the other mess.

I took your suggestions and eliminated that AAV, arranged the lines on the air control valve so they tapped into the carb and the only vac source is the smaller line. It is running better and starting quicker, however, at times it is not starting after it gets up to operating temp...so its getting better. If I bypass the air temp valve it stumbles, so I plugged it back in. Just noticed, I have a small leak in the carb gasket, maybe that is the culprit for it not starting sometimes at operating temp.

Hey man, read over your past post...boy I feel ya. I am about to drop the money on a weber, so frustrated. It was helpful though, I got a few lines on there right (at least I think). It is running smoother and starting quicker and most importantly starting almost every time. Before, it seemed more often than not it wouldnt start, and would almost never start when up to operating temp. Now, if I shut it off after reaching operating temp, sometimes it wont start....so its getting better. Before it was most of the time...now its sometimes

So I got 2 air control valves, One with: 2 ports, one large, one small, pointing opposite of each other (not in pictures) Second with: 4 ports, all large, three pointing one direction, 1 pointing the opposite (in pictures) Also I have a, looks like a solenoid valve with 2 small ports (in pictures) I had it running great, however, it was at a higher idle. So, I started playing with this stuff, bad mistake. I eliminated the charcoal canister. I still have the Anti afterburn valve and EGR. I have taken the lines off the carb and air control valves and got them and rearranged and all mixed up. What do I do? What can I cap? what is needed? I do I get this routed right? Any diagrams or pictures you have? I looked in the haynes manual and searched this diagram, no luck on routing diagram Sometimes is starts right away, runs decent (when hot). Seems to starts every time cold and run decent. Weird huh, normally its opposite in most cars Check out the pics, how do get this routed right, so it will start every time hot or cold. If you pics of your engine bay while explain, that would most helpful. Thanks in advance.

I think when I get the money next year, I will convert over to TBI or throw a weber on there. Was it pretty easy to convert to TBI? What all did you have to do?

You didnt hijack the thread. Its great to ask questions, thats why this is here... to provide and to get information.

Haha, if I could get it running...I would need to bring it down to you. Wish I could man.

I checked the choke for poops and giggles and it is functioning properly. It was running great without the pods, however, I think I will throw them back on there. It seems a lot of the emissions have no value, but these do have value. Once I get those thrown back on there I am gonna mess with the screw again. Thanks.

Thanks for the info. 8 degrees BTDC, I static timed it after I rebuilt the motor.

Good info, thanks guys.

If those are the UFOs looking things, I took those off a week or so ago. It ran great until I messed with the bottom screw. I could try to put them back on (like you said earlier) and "T" them together, if you think it has value

I have heard raves and raves about weber...after fiddling with the hitachi for a week now, I can see why. I have been working on cars for years, but I have limited experience with carbs. That is my problem. I had it running great, with all the emissions crap off including the UFO thingys, but just at a higher idle. Then I messed with the bottom screw and have has problems since. After all of you guys help, I adjusted it all the way down and then backed off 2 turns, it has troubles starting at cold (sometimes it starts with no problems), but eventually starts. Runs great and all of the sudden out of the blue, it dies. If I adjust the bottom screw a little while it is running, it dies and it wont start again till I let it cool, then I can barely get it started...it warms up and dies. I have to get the idle screw a little high to keep it running for a short time. I am so frustrated, I just want to get it running again. I dont even care about the high idle haha. I had it running (at a high idle) and starting on a dime everytime, but ever since my ********************* messed with that bottom screw it either wont start, runs great and randomly stalls after a few mins or runs like ************...I never know. I wish I had the money for a weber, I have heard so many good things about them. Simpler and easier to tune up. I think I oughta just take to a shop, I just cant figure it out on my own. I am getting tired of adjusting back and forth with same results, I am staying in that 1.75 - 2.5 range grrrr:banghead:

They seem darn tight on there. I dont think there are to many vac leaks, they may resolve the high idle issue, not the adjustment screw issue

It is the stock carb, I eliminated all the emissions crap prior to messing with the screw. It ran great without all that ************, and cleaned up the engine bay Everything is capped off with new caps, and I put new vacuum lines on there. The few that are left.

Not quite two turns? Do you mean turn the all the clockwise tight, then back off almost 2 complete turns. Or thread all the way off, then turn clockwise 2 complete times. I didnt mess with the ignition timing at all. New plugs, wires, cap and rotor. It ran beautiful, but a little high idle until I messed with that screw. After looking in the haynes manual it is the "secondary fast-idle screw", it says to adjust it to angle, not sure how to measure the angle.

So, I just finished rebuilding my 87' ea81 motor. I flushed and rebuilt the carburetor as well. All went well, however, I drove it several days with a high idle. It ran smooth, but at about 1500 rpms or so, never stalled and it started quick every time hot or cold. After some inspection, I found the idle screw was backed off all the way and the accelerator cable was the same, so that wasnt the high idle issue. I found a hard to reach screw at the bottom (I think it is fuel/air mixture) and messed with it...biggest mistake ever!! I managed to lower the idle, however, it runs poorly, stalls at times, and has troubles starting at times also. I adjusted the idle screw as well trying to find the happy medium, being unsuccessful. Basically, it is unreliable now...sometimes it runs like a top or I have several issues. I cant manage to get it back to where it was. I would deal with the high idle for reliability. Thoughts on fixing this? Do I adjust it with the choke unplugged, or is there a factory setting I can turn it too? A trick of any kind? Help!! By the way, I dont have the money for a Weber right now. Wes