teppichkopf

This is in an auto. However, I don't believe there is a switch for this. The switch on the gear selector is for the "manual" which I think just moves the shifting points in case you're towing or something. The green "power" light I think comes on if you floor the engine or such. But I don't know what it is trying to tell me when it is lit. Hopefully someone on the board can clear this up. Anyone?

I drained mine the other month. I have a gen 1 legacy so it should be very similar. You shouldn't need a jack, or to drive up a curb. You should be able to reach the plug easily from underneath the drivers door. The hardest part might be getting leverage if your bolt is on there tight.

Someone remind what the little green "Power" light beneath the tacometer and spedometer means when it's lit.

I've thought about the same swap but have decided on just buying a Legacy with a 5 speed. Sure, plenty of people have done the swap but for all the trouble and hassle I don't think it's worth it for a car that can be bought for under $2000. Unless it not your main car and more of a weekend project to learn.

I dealt with a torn inner CV boot on the passenger side. It is located just above the exhaust pipe so it throws a lot of grease onto the hot pipe. Although I usually don't smell it while the cars is moving. Just when I park.

Looks like I'm going to rebuild the calipers and dust boots on my '90 legacy front brakes. Is it recommended to address the piston seal and piston dust boot at the same time? Or can I consider them separate sytems and leave the piston alone? It looks fine to me so I didn't want to mess with it.

Anybody recommend a cheap online brake pad source for Legacy's?

I've used split boots before and found them to serve their purpose, which is to prolong the inevitable axle replacement. I like to think of them as band aids for a deep cut: they may stop the bleeding but they won't fix the problem. As most will say it's just better to replace the axle with a rebuilt.

NGK, of course.

I've driven many miles on split CV boots without any problems. However, I've also had a cv axle get dangerous without any warning or clicking. While driving along at 50 miles the car became quite unstable and felt like the front end wanted to go into two directions at the same. I pulled over and check everything until I saw the wear on the cv axle. I slowly made it home and drove it the next day where it acted fine, again. Swapped it out that weekend. If just to say that steering is nothing to mess with.

What kind of grease is used in cv joints? Just an all purpose waterproof grease? I still get a clicking sound from my right front. And it seems to only be when it's cold. Could the grease in the cv boot be reactin to the colder weather and not doing it's job as well? Once the weather warms and the snow melts I'll pull the wheel off to affirm it's not a stuck caliper. And I'm pretty sure it's not a bearing issue. But whatever it is it's bugging me.

Any idea what the dealer charges for auto transmission servicing, ie, filter and fluid change? I changed the fluid my self awhile back but I know there's more to it than just that.

I'm in DC. Welcome.

Anyone ever had their Subaru towed improperly??? I was telling a friend that tow companies would be less likely to tow my Subaru cause they would need to get a flatbead, otherwise they'd ruin the drivetrain. Of course if the tow company didn't know that, would they be responsible for the damages?

Dumb question ... what's a "doj"?

I have an occasional noise from the front driver side. Usually happens when colder. Sounds like the wheel is hitting the fender or such. Doesn't sound like a brake sound. CV axle less than 5000 miles. No visable defects. Can't really hear sound when window is down. More from the footwell. Doesn't stop when there is no load on the engine. Turning doesn't seem to make a difference.Revolution dependent. Faster, more thunks. Slower, less. Could it be a bearing?

I concur. When I lived in Maui my friend's Landcruiser had a overheating problem. His mechanic just pulled the t-stat out. Overheating problem solved. The mechanic said it wouldn't cause a problem since temps rarely go below 60.

You're right. I saw some photos for the 2007 due Z-Type. Well, Lamborghini*already did one back in the 80s, so that leaves who? Ferrari? And Harley Davidson.

I guess it was only a matter of time before EVEN Subaru couldn't escape market forces and offer a SUV. At least they kept the boxer engine. I thought I saw it all with Volvo. And then the Porsche/VW. Who's left now? Jaguar? Why couldn't Subaru talk VW into releasing thet MicroBus in the US with a boxer engine instead of this B9X?

My 90 auto is a little sloppy on the shifts. On a past roadtrip I stopped at the Subaru dealer in Idaho Falls, ID and talked to Sub mechanic there. He said the those early 90 autos weren't know for being put together tightly. And if the scheduled maintenance on them wasn't done, they won't last. He said buying a rebuilt one is a gamble since there's only a few competent people that can rebuild them correctly. Unless you do it yourself. I've debated about swapping out mine for a manual but am willing to deal with the sloppiness for now.

Car was driven 15 miles before I checked. Although I don't think I checked while the car was idling. Think it was off. I'll check again during idle and see what I get.

Noticed there's a little more than the high mark indicated. Maybe a quarter inch past the hot-high mark. Is this a problem? Should I drain a little out? It's a '90 EJ22 with auto transaxle, of course.

90' Legacy auto: Sometimes when I use the A/C the engine will stall at a intersection. Or hesitate and want to stall out. Ideas?

Saw a Gen 1 Legacy the other day with the GX badge on the back. Look's like that's the UK version. But I didn't notice if it was left hand drive. Or maybe they sold GXs in Canada. Made me do a double take and wonder.

34 mpg?? Very nice. That with FWD or AWD? Manual or Auto? Wish I could get those numbers.